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On 1/9/2018 at 8:32 AM, ednelson100 said:

Kim,  Here is where I got my original info. on this upgrade. Rolling the odometer to correct reading was very tricky but can be done, just make sure you first take close up pictures before you disassemble the odometer if you choose to do that part of it.

toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/4058-instrument-cluster-swap/

If you solder these two connectors together 4WD will then light when ECT button is pressed.

IMG_0453.JPG.3ea08ee307c13fc3d4c6d621d2824a0e.JPG

Open front of instrument panel, and cut out 4WD and tape ECT in its place and you have your ECT light back.

IMG_0452.JPG.8861bca7643b799642ff584609f41b2b.JPG

It can, Just ask Mr. Speed.....James who has had it well over 90MPH after his swap. Acceleration is greatly improved also.

Ed

Perfect. Thanks!  

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On ‎1‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 9:24 AM, danpty said:

If there's still life left in the A340E great.  I guess I'll wire up to the T100 2WD computer.  I hope the tranny made the trip or I'll be posting up a the MT conversion after the motor is dropped in.  It's a pain to drill the hole for the Master cylinder, plumb the slave cylinder etc. after the 3.4's dropped in. 

   I had mine towed for about 5 miles twice a few years ago without disconnecting drive shaft and it did not hurt the transmission so short distance does seem to be OK. 

In case anyone is interested,

  I still have my old 1992  3.0 / A340E with 115K miles in excellent condition I would sell. I am in San Antonio but will be travelling to AZ, CA, FL, NM and OH and who knows where else this year.

Ed

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On 1/9/2018 at 9:32 AM, ednelson100 said:

Kim,  Here is where I got my original info. on this upgrade. Rolling the odometer to correct reading was very tricky but can be done, just make sure you first take close up pictures before you disassemble the odometer if you choose to do that part of it.

toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/4058-instrument-cluster-swap/

If you solder these two connectors together 4WD will then light when ECT button is pressed.

IMG_0453.JPG.3ea08ee307c13fc3d4c6d621d2824a0e.JPG

Open front of instrument panel, and cut out 4WD and tape ECT in its place and you have your ECT light back.

IMG_0452.JPG.8861bca7643b799642ff584609f41b2b.JPG

It can, Just ask Mr. Speed.....James who has had it well over 90MPH after his swap. Acceleration is greatly improved also.

Ed

I wouldn't drive a Toy Home 90 mph even if it had a jet engine in it!

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9 hours ago, Maineah said:

I wouldn't drive a Toy Home 90 mph even if it had a jet engine in it!

lol, were not driving, were flying low baby!!

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On 12/11/2017 at 1:22 PM, defrag4 said:

MPG is still pretty disappointing, getting ~11-13, but I am flying down the highway at 75mph B)will be interested to see if her MPG improves once I get the rear o2 sensor installed and get off these damn highways, backroads are calling my name, should be on the move again in Jan

That sounds about what I am getting. I now have driven over 10,000 miles on the 3.4/5VZE motor with no issues and still loving it.

My 3.4 motor has a total of 160K miles on it and is still in excellent condition and getting the following MPG.

City: 13.5 average

Highway on a flat road with no wind at 55 MPH / 2500 RPM: 14.5 average

Highway on a flat road with no wind at 70 MPH / 3000 RPM: 12.5 average

So, my conclusion is MPG is about the same on the 3.4 as it was on my 3.0 before the 3.0 started having serious issues. The amount of wind resistance seems to have the most impact on MPG in my opinion.

Ed

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On 1/15/2018 at 7:31 PM, defrag4 said:

lol, were not driving, were flying low baby!!

I have hit 90 Mph a couple times; both were on downhill with back-winds in straight up straight down hills heading west on turnpike early in the trip to go to Yellowstone. There were no vehicles ahead or behind me; and I was literally gravity cruising to get up the next pass. The sweetspot for MPG I find to be 65-67 MPH at least on my old motor. I am still in break in period on my new motor that was designed for the Toy and its MPG is all over the place; but definitely better at higher speeds.

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finally installed my Neutral Start Switch today, got my PRNDL and reverse lights back yay!!

 

had to cut the wiring harness sheath back a ways and split out the NSS plug from the rest of it so I could strectch it over top of the trans and down to its home

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also got the airbox installed off the 4runner and its sound 10000% times better, no more annoying drone, fits under the hood fine, had to rig up some mounting brackets out of random bolts and zipties

Edited by defrag4

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still need to figure out a solution for the missing trans temp sender, its my last CEL i need to defeat

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over in Colorado now, tearing up the rockies!

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I am also working on swapping my gauge cluster out for the SR5 one with RPM, oil pressure, volts, etc

 

My first attempt was a failure, got a nice guage set from a 96 T100 figuring it would match the motor perfectly... well it matched the motor fine but it the guage set used a mechanical speedo whereas my trans is actually an electronic speedo, so back it went

Now I have one from a 93 T100 with a 3VZE, electronic speedo. got it plugged in but have no RPM gauge, not sure if it was wired from the factory for one or not? I am reading some articles that say I can tap into the diag port under the hood or the red/yellow wire coming off the igniter for an RPM signal and run a wire back to the gauge set to get my RPMs to work, we shall see tomorrow

 

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So I have got everything working now on my new gauge cluster, EXCEPT for the damn tach...

 

I ran a tach sensor wire over to the "P" pulse terminal on the back of the cluster and then over to the black wire coming out of the ignitor, which according to the webs seems to be the right one, unforunately the IGN port on my 3.4L diag port doesnt actually have any wires going to it.

 

Did you have to add any resistors to your cluster to get the tach to work?

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Wow, great work! I'm curious to see what your fuel economy is with the new engine!

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22 hours ago, defrag4 said:

still need to figure out a solution for the missing trans temp sender, its my last CEL i need to defeat

I welded a bung into my pan, no codes. Alternatively, Geno's garage sells an adapter that basically just secures the sensor to an exterior trans line. You could temporarily rig your temp sensor in a similar fashion to see if the code stops setting.

Edited by danny dan

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7 hours ago, defrag4 said:

So I have got everything working now on my new gauge cluster, EXCEPT for the damn tach...

 

I ran a tach sensor wire over to the "P" pulse terminal on the back of the cluster and then over to the black wire coming out of the ignitor, which according to the webs seems to be the right one, unforunately the IGN port on my 3.4L diag port doesnt actually have any wires going to it.

 

Did you have to add any resistors to your cluster to get the tach to work?

Prior to the 3.4 swap, that wire would have gone from the P terminal as you mentioned to the negative side of the coil. The tach should at least be moving even if not correct. There is a potentiometer on the back if I recall for adjustment. You will need to wire the 10k resistor if not using a 3.4 t100 cluster. All the pickups and runners used cable speedo from 89-91 and electronic speedo from 92-95 with the exception of the t100. I have a resistor I can mail you. 

Many thanks for the tips on the swap btw. I have about 900 miles on my 3.4 swap into my 92 Itasca. 13-15 mpg so far. Runs like a champ.

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