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bodasefus

I messed up

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I messed up while working on the 20R motor...  I need a replacement Asian carb for my 80 Huntsman...  Anybody done the weber conversion and have their old Asian on the shelf

PM me if you have one...  Thanks

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I bumped this to refresh...  doesn't anyone have a Asian carb to fit the 20R motor they want to sell...

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On 10/6/2016 at 5:39 PM, bodasefus said:

I messed up while working on the 20R motor...  I need a replacement Asian carb for my 80 Huntsman...  Anybody done the weber conversion and have their old Asian on the shelf

PM me if you have one...  Thanks

I have two extras but would kind of like to keep unless you cannot find elsewhere.  There is a junkyard near me that has one on a 1978 20R.  I am going there on thursday is you want to buy it.  I have no idea on price. If interested I can call and ask (I know the owner).  Or call yourself.  I have an extra from a 1977 I'd sell if you really get in a pinch.  Junkyard is Lee's Auto parts.  If you call, just tell him you want the carb off the old Toyota motorhome. He doesn't know what year it is, so don't ask.  I went over and checked it out last week and it is a 1978. Phone is 989-354-2910.  Alpena, Michigan. Here are some photos.

IMG_20160915_121913580.jpg

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43 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

A 'Heavy Duty' carb? There's a difference between the carb for a 1/2 Ton & 3/4 Ton?

"Heavy Duty" usually implies less emissions features.  Nothing to do with actually being heavy-duty.  Just a matter of HD vehicles emissions regs were more relaxed then on LD.  I have a couple of mid-80s Chevy diesels.  1/2 ton is light-duty and must have an EGR system.   3/4 ton is heavy-duty and gets to skip the EGR system.  Gas engines often were the same way.  

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Here is a closer photo of the carb on the 1978 Minicruiser motorhome in Alpena, Michigan. I think I could buy the entire motorhome for $200, but who knows when you ask for just the carb?

carb close.jpg

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Car-part.com offers 4 choices of carbs ('79 - '80) for manual or automatic, Federal or California. No mention of 1/2 Ton, 3/4 Ton or HD.

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I am just telling you a general fact for cars and trucks in the 70s and 80s.  Fed has HD emissions, LD emissions, and of course there are California emissions.  I have no idea how Toyota dealt with it.  General Motors did not actually say "light duty" or "heavy duty" either.  They went by "C-code" or "J-code."      The point is - all the car and truck makers had more relaxed emission requirements on truck rated over a certain payload capacity.  I also would expect Car-Part.com to be the final word on any of this. I love buying parts there but I find errors in their database almost on a daily basis.

The main differences are apt to be these.  HD has a slower opening choke to enhance cold driveability. It may have more delivery with the accelerator pump - again for cold driveability.  Some carbs many have extra vacuum ports to run extra emissions devices.  LD carbs are likely to have more aggressive choke-pulloff pods and choke-breaks.  California may be jetted slightly different and-or have a different power-valve.  California engines are often rated for less horsepower.  Again, these are generalities.   Note also that carbs used in automatic transmissions will often have an extra throttle dampening dashpot.

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Here is a close up of a 1977 Aisin carb on a 1977 Chinook (Toyota HD cab & chassis) with a 20R I rebuilt recently.  Two choke pull-offs, electric choke with engine coolant assist, electric anti-diesel solenoid, and vacuum pod to open secondary venturi.

DSCF6696.JPG

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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:

A 'Heavy Duty' carb? There's a difference between the carb for a 1/2 Ton & 3/4 Ton?

For his cab and chassis heavy there is only one part number and it was only made from 8/79 to 8/80. I don't make this stuff up. Since Toyota does specify the heavy chassis and I doubt manufacturers used a regular truck chassis that would mean this is the one

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~carburetor~assy~21100-38491.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Pickup&Year=1980&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;5=MTM;6=4F;7=HVY;9=IV)&Location=carburetor-assembly,,21100

Linda S

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RN42 comes up in some places as both the C&C and the LWB Pickup (which might help someone scouring junkyards). Still, I've no pony in this race. Just curious what the difference might be beyond perhaps some minor jetting changes.

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I think it is a lot to do about nothing.  On some carbs the difference between LD and HD can be just how fast the choke opens (it is adjustable).  When carbs got built new - or rebuilt - there are specs sheets that give precise requirements for things like choke-coil tension setting, inches of vacuum on the choke vacuum pod, fraction of an inch for the choke manual unloader, length of stroke for accelerator pump, etc. Sometimes these are very minor differences that make an auto with a LD carb not as much "fun" to drive when cold as a HD carb.  Also, at least with American autos - LD also the heat-riser for the carb to be blocked off.  Without one of those specs sheets ( I have them for some Fords and GM, not for Aisin) - all you can do is guess. I know there is no major difference between any of them.  I have rebuild spec sheets that come with the repair kits for 20R carbs.  Some adjustments differ depending on carb spec #. Float level, accel-pump stroke, choke coil index mark, etc.

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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:

Just curious what the difference might be beyond perhaps some minor jetting changes.

Here is a 1980 Canada-only Emissions version to add to the mix.

c468_t.jpg

c468_s.jpg

c468_b.jpg

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19 hours ago, fred heath said:

Thanks for the responses...  I think that I am going to go with the weber carb...  My cousin asked me what I wanted for Christmas and I gave her the link and told her that is the one I wanted...  I will have to wait a bit but I have work to do on the interior...

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2 hours ago, bodasefus said:

Thanks for the responses...  I think that I am going to go with the weber carb...  My cousin asked me what I wanted for Christmas and I gave her the link and told her that is the one I wanted...  I will have to wait a bit but I have work to do on the interior...

The Webber I showed you has an electric choke. If your carburetor has a hot water choke system, you will have to block off the water inlet and outlet.

I'm not sure if Webber makes one for the water choke. You can check with the company.

Good luck, Fred.

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4 hours ago, bodasefus said:

Thanks for the responses...  I think that I am going to go with the weber carb...  My cousin asked me what I wanted for Christmas and I gave her the link and told her that is the one I wanted...  I will have to wait a bit but I have work to do on the interior...

You've got better cousins then I do.  I remember when we (me and fellow mechanics) cursed those two-barrel Webers. Ford used them on Pintos in the late 70s as I recall. On 2.3 liter engines. Heck - maybe the ones Weber sells now are the same ones, or near.  I like the Aisan carbs. Very well engineering.  Problem is - some parts are getting scarce.  We used to tear off the Webers and replace them with two-barrel Holleys, but I'm talking about near 40 years ago.

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So I was wondering what you did to your carb. Some parts can be replaced. What broke

Linda S

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45 minutes ago, linda s said:

So I was wondering what you did to your carb. Some parts can be replaced. What broke

Linda S

 

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I was in the process of putting a kit in the carb,,,  my cat jumped in my lap to get some scratchies and jumped in the pile of small parts and some small parts went flying...

I do not know what was lost other than some small springs an other parts I cannot find...  I imagine with a fresh kit,,, someone who knows what they are doing could put it back together and have a good carb...  I do not have that knowledge...

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Well your looking at almost 300 bucks to replace it. How much would it cost to have someone put it back together correctly. The top quality carb kit from Toyota for your carb is only 35 bucks

Linda S

Those darn cats

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1 hour ago, bodasefus said:

I was in the process of putting a kit in the carb,,,  my cat jumped in my lap to get some scratchies and jumped in the pile of small parts and some small parts went flying...

I do not know what was lost other than some small springs an other parts I cannot find...  I imagine with a fresh kit,,, someone who knows what they are doing could put it back together and have a good carb...  I do not have that knowledge...

How far did you take it apart? If you went and pulled every part this can be taken out, then there are indeed some small parts you won't get in a kit or even be able to buy new.  That's when a junk carb for parts come in handy.   On the other hand if you were just doing a routine service on a carb - with a kit - there isn't much to lose that does not come in a decent kit. Last kit I got cost me around $12 and had a new float valve and seat, both accelerator pumps, power valve, accel pump check ball, and I'm sure a few other small parts I'm forgetting.   The kits lack other things often needed though like choke-pull-off pods or the vacuum-pod-diaphram that makes the one-barrel turn into a two-barrel when needed.  Hey, if your cousin likes you enough to buy a new Weber, and you live somewhere that has no emissions-testing - then I guess you are all set.  If anything, I consider a Weber inferior to an OEM Aisan carb - except for the fact most Aisan's are very old and these Webers are new.  The Chinese are making brand new Aisan clones but only for the 22Rs.  I have not seen any for the 20Rs.

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Up until at least a few years ago, the 'good' Webers were manufactured in Spain. But maybe they've since shifted to production Chindia, like everyone else. :)

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I only took the top part of the carb off...  my neighbor came over and he is a good backyard mechanic...  We found the spring for the secondary accel pump and put it back together...  we primed it and it started...  We had to keep priming to keep it running and then we started to check why no fuel to the carb...  Loosened the banjo nut and it had pressure...  can't get it to idle but we need to figure out why the fuel is not getting in the carb...  strange...  any ideas???

 

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No fuel to the carb means either the electric fuel pump in the tank is not working,or the fuel filter is plugged.  

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Isn't 1980 one of the years they had mechanical pumps? This isn't an in tank pump right? Might be easier than it is for the rest of us to change out. Maybe electric but just not in the tank

Linda S

Toyota 23100-39315 PUMP ASSY, FUEL

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Could be.  I have never looked close at a 1980. I mean actually manufactured in 1980. Many model-year 1980 RVs have 1979 trucks under them.    I know for sure the 20R in 1977, 1978 and 1979 has an electric pump.  If it does have a mechanical pump on the engine, in some ways, it makes things even more hard to diagnose.  If it is drawing air due to  leak on the intake side, you won't see any leaks or gas dripping on the ground.

I went to that junkyard yesterday to seek out some Chevy rear-axle parts (like for a Tiger Astro camper).  Ended up I found the HD axle I wanted but the price was so high - I did not buy it.  But that 1978 Toyota mothorhome?  Seems the junkyard owner hates Toyotas and Datsuns and sold me the parts cheap. He says he never buys them.  This 1978 was kind of dumped at his place, free of charge.  So for $40, I bought the carb, and the entire electronic ignition system with the distributor.  Carb is in surpriisingly good shape, despite the cob-webs.  Even still pumping gas (gas did not turn to sludge).  In my part of the country, old Toyotas in junkyards are very rare.  Most were crushed years ago and turned into new Chevys or Fords.

Linda - I'd love to see a photo of the rear axle in your Tiger.  I am wondering now if Provan special ordered those Astrovans with the heavier ZR2 axles?  Easy to tell with a glance.  The axle tubes are a larger diameter near the center and then taper back to a smaller size for the HD axle.

igniter.jpg

IMG_20161013_112553900.jpg

IMG_20161013_162846557.jpg

IMG_20161013_105009550.jpg

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Can't get to it now without moving my Nissan first and then crawling in the mud. Was that axle even an option on an Astro or would Provan have had to install it. I've never heard of any changes to the vans other than putting the coach on it. They even left those nasty fiberglass leaf springs in place on the early ones. Remind me in the spring.

Linda S

Comparing pics of the different Chevy axles I'm certain mine doesn't have that rear end. that big round differential is the 8.5 inch and mine is more squared off like the puny 7.5.

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I did not know anything until recently about these little axles GM uses in S10 trucks and Astrovans.  I have a 1998 S10 rust-free I got from Alabama.   I am going to cut the frame and lengthen it about 7" so a Chinook body will fit on to it.  After researching a little, I found that just about all S10s come with the 7.5" differential and small diameter axles.  I don't care about the differential size. It is the axle-size that concerns me.  The 7.5" rear only has axles 1.4" in diameter.   Note that the so-called Toyota "death axles" are 1.57".  Ends up if an S10 has the ZR2 option, the rear axle is 3" wider , has the 8.5" differential, and axles that are 1.6" diameter.  I have no idea if such an axle was available for Astrovans.  Seems it should of been.   So this is the axle I have been hunting for.  I DID find one in the junkyard but the guy wants $350 for it. I know where there is another 150 miles away for $100.  I was hoping not to make that trip, but now I guess I will.   So, all this work just to make an S10 as strong as all the Toyotas have been since 1975.


 

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Well,,, my cousin looked at how much the weber carb cost and did not want to spend that mych...  so no weber...

Still lookin...  Zero - want to sell me that carb you just got???

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I believe zero aka jde has taken a sabbatical from this forum due to his extreme crush on and loving treatment by Linda S.

alas, ebay or other parts sites are your only hope now. If only we could all get along.

 

 

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These places all have the correct carburetor listed as in stock and at quite reasonable prices. All far away but lots of them will ship. Just start calling.

Linda S

Marler Auto Supply, Inc. USA-ID(Idaho-Falls) Request_Quote 800-444-9707 / 208-523-4187 Request_Insurance_Quote
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