Getting ready to roll

[flatspin]

We are in the finishing stages of our 'phase-1' Sunrader restoration and ready to hit the road next week for our first trek. We'll be following the www.amgentourofcalifornia.com.

I'll be taking the rig in to the local shop for a look over and oil change before we go. Any hot items that are on your "MUST BE CHECKED" list before departure? Tire pressure, oil, transmission, coolant... Do I go as far as a transmission fluid change for the season? Rear diff gear oil? Am I over thinking this?

Rig has just over 100k on the V6, starts easy every time and runs strong. Brakes are quiet, smooth and capable.

Any do not miss items will be most appreciated!

[Maineah]

If the transmission has never been done don't start now if you put fresh fluid in a transmission with that kind of mileage you maybe walking in a couple of weeks. Just a good going over should be fine it's still a motor vehicle just like the family car only bigger. All of your appliances OK? Plenty of propane and water? I'm not one to carry extra weight but when I'm going some where I have never been before I all ways fill my water tank with water from home I have tasted some pretty bad camp ground water.

[flatspin]

If the transmission has never been done don't start now if you put fresh fluid in a transmission with that kind of mileage you maybe walking in a couple of weeks. Just a good going over should be fine it's still a motor vehicle just like the family car only bigger. All of your appliances OK? Plenty of propane and water? I'm not one to carry extra weight but when I'm going some where I have never been before I all ways fill my water tank with water from home I have tasted some pretty bad camp ground water.

I'm looking at the varieties of portable water filters. The water here in the East Bay isn't fabulous, so a filter is useful even for those home fill-ups. The transmission fluid is still brightly colored and the prior owner claimed he kept it on a severe duty cycle with regular fluid changes. I'm going to take it in for a check-up on Friday. Oil changes are cheap, and the once over by a mechanic is free. Oh, and I think i need a new battery too. Brands? Interstate?

[Gulfstream Greg]

I don't think there is anything you should not check. I agree with Maineah about the transmission unless it smells burnt. On the same subject though I have heard good things about switching to synthetic trans oil. I have heard bad also such as leaking seals and slipping etc. I suppose its a double edge sword in the transmission world.

Under the tire category I now always have some replacement new valves for the stems. One time after checking my tires one valve I guess malfunctioned. I try to do the thump test before departure and found a rear dual flat an hour before heading off. They were all fine the day before when I had checked the pressures.

We don't drink our tank water but I have used a water freshener additive. It really works and is non toxic. So the label states.

Flairs are a good idea but most likely scenario is you might need several hours of safety. One or two of those trucker triangle reflectors work well.

A torque wrench for those pesky lug nuts.

Extra belts

Fuses

Extra radiator hoses

Tools

Maybe some of this stuff seems overkill, but if its a Sunday and your stranded on the side of the road because of a broken belt or blown hose you will be a happy camper.

If you have never done so a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas.

[flatspin]

I don't think there is anything you should not check. I agree with Maineah about the transmission unless it smells burnt. On the same subject though I have heard good things about switching to synthetic trans oil. I have heard bad also such as leaking seals and slipping etc. I suppose its a double edge sword in the transmission world.

Under the tire category I now always have some replacement new valves for the stems. One time after checking my tires one valve I guess malfunctioned. I try to do the thump test before departure and found a rear dual flat an hour before heading off. They were all fine the day before when I had checked the pressures.

We don't drink our tank water but I have used a water freshener additive. It really works and is non toxic. So the label states.

Flairs are a good idea but most likely scenario is you might need several hours of safety. One or two of those trucker triangle reflectors work well.

A torque wrench for those pesky lug nuts.

Extra belts

Fuses

Extra radiator hoses

Tools

Maybe some of this stuff seems overkill, but if its a Sunday and your stranded on the side of the road because of a broken belt or blown hose you will be a happy camper.

If you have never done so a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas.

Well I went to town, checked most everything and carried a virtual auto shop in my utility box including some nice new reflector triangles.

Cooked off a little bit of oil on the trip, but we pushed the rig pretty hard (up to 70+ on I-5, a long ride over the Grapevine, and a trip to Big Bear, Ca at 7,000ft of elevation) and came through perfectly. I did pop in a bottle of injector cleaner -- not sure if it has had an impact or not. The 3.06 isn't super powerful, but on the way south we were pushing 70 and clearing 13mpg which isn't bad. The trip back on 101 was MUCH smoother, though a little slower. I'm betting the mileage was a lot better at 60-65... Thanks everyone for the feedback.

And the transmission (knock wood) seems to be AOK... in fact, I think it is in far better shape than my 1997 F-150 that has the same miles on it.

[Gulfstream Greg]

Well I went to town, checked most everything and carried a virtual auto shop in my utility box including some nice new reflector triangles.

Cooked off a little bit of oil on the trip, but we pushed the rig pretty hard (up to 70+ on I-5, a long ride over the Grapevine, and a trip to Big Bear, Ca at 7,000ft of elevation) and came through perfectly. I did pop in a bottle of injector cleaner -- not sure if it has had an impact or not. The 3.06 isn't super powerful, but on the way south we were pushing 70 and clearing 13mpg which isn't bad. The trip back on 101 was MUCH smoother, though a little slower. I'm betting the mileage was a lot better at 60-65... Thanks everyone for the feedback.

And the transmission (knock wood) seems to be AOK... in fact, I think it is in far better shape than my 1997 F-150 that has the same miles on it.

Cool, glad to hear all went well!

At speeds of 60 mph plus over drive can be usable at times with the V6. A note about the V6 trans, it has a locking torque converter and will lock when in drive. It will run cooker when locked. You will know when it goes into lock as the rpm will drop just a tad. It only locks in drive and overdrive. If you manually shift into 2nd for a steep grade it will not lock. When unlocked the torque converter slips creating heat.

[longwater]

Here are some things I keep in my tool box.

(1) J-B weld,I used it on many things It will even repair a hole in a radiator ,it takes 24 hrs to set.

(2) Sandpaper/steelwool

(3) wire or a coathanger

(4) radiator stopleak make sure it has fine metal,copper or aluminum

(5)wire connectors and electric tape

( 6) extra 1157 lightbulbs-tail lights

(7) muffler bandage

these things won't take up very much room,also a testlight,a multimeter is better but a testlight will work.

Brake fluid,jumper cables and a quart of oil.

Hopefully you will never need any of these.

LW

[flatspin]

Cool, glad to hear all went well!

At speeds of 60 mph plus over drive can be usable at times with the V6. A note about the V6 trans, it has a locking torque converter and will lock when in drive. It will run cooker when locked. You will know when it goes into lock as the rpm will drop just a tad. It only locks in drive and overdrive. If you manually shift into 2nd for a steep grade it will not lock. When unlocked the torque converter slips creating heat.

Thanks for all the good advice. I was well overprepared for any contingency, especially given an unusually reliable platform.

I did note that lock-up RPM change. It seems to be fairly quick after the shift, and we used OD a lot on the long, flat freeway stretches. I don't have a transmission temperature gauge (though I've considered adding one) but I did put a hand on the floor when climbing up the Grapevine and up HWY 18 to Big Bear. I saw a little bump in coolant temperature and a negligible rise in the heat, if any, coming off the transmission hump.

One thing I want to work on is ride quality. My Sunrader has some recent-vintage Monroe Gas Magnum shocks on it. I'm wondering if better shocks at all corners would improve things. My springs are in pretty good shape so I have been experimenting with keeping the airbags on the low side (35-40psi) but that ride is still harsh, especially on washboard concrete freeway.

I had put Monroe shocks on my F-150 during a tire change (they threw me a deal) and they were awful. Washboard pavement sent the truck porpoising. I switched over to KYBs on the Ford and it is like a new vehicle. Any similar experiences to relate before I plunk down some green for new dampers?

[COYota]

I have KYB MonoMax shocks on my 18' Sunrader and I've been very happy with the job they do controlling rebound. Bilstiens also have a very good reputation.

I have Monroe Gas Magnums on my Nissan pickup and I'm unimpressed. Not bad for the cheap price, but nothing special.

-Brad

One thing I want to work on is ride quality. My Sunrader has some recent-vintage Monroe Gas Magnum shocks on it. I'm wondering if better shocks at all corners would improve things. My springs are in pretty good shape so I have been experimenting with keeping the airbags on the low side (35-40psi) but that ride is still harsh, especially on washboard concrete freeway.

I had put Monroe shocks on my F-150 during a tire change (they threw me a deal) and they were awful. Washboard pavement sent the truck porpoising. I switched over to KYBs on the Ford and it is like a new vehicle. Any similar experiences to relate before I plunk down some green for new dampers?

[flatspin]

I have KYB MonoMax shocks on my 18' Sunrader and I've been very happy with the job they do controlling rebound. Bilstiens also have a very good reputation.

I have Monroe Gas Magnums on my Nissan pickup and I'm unimpressed. Not bad for the cheap price, but nothing special.

-Brad

Thanks Brad... I had a feeling that would be the case. Now the question is how to buy and install them without the "Master Budgeter" finding out

-andrew

[krj]

How did the race go?

Hopefully you were as meticulous about your bike as you were about your transportation to the race.

Ride hard, have fun!

[flatspin]

How did the race go?

Hopefully you were as meticulous about your bike as you were about your transportation to the race.

Ride hard, have fun!

When it comes to bike races, I'm decidedly a spectator! But I will say my bike is the same vintage (and gets similar attention) as the Sunrader. The Tour of California was awesome. Posted a few pics to the blog at www.sunrader.blogspot.com and will try to get a few more up into a gallery. The pros are amazing going up the road. The group goes fast, then suddenly a couple of guys will break away and accelerate. Maybe like putting jato rockets on the 'rader. Hmm, where have i seen that before?

[Gulfstream Greg]

Maybe like putting jato rockets on the 'rader. Hmm, where have i seen that before?

Where no toyota has gone before!

[Allen]

FYI. After reading this post, I purchased some KYB KG5466 Gas-a-Just Monotube Shocks for our 1985 21' Sunrader hoping to smooth out the rear suspension some. It turns out that it had some Monroe Gas-Magnums on it. The Sunrader rear suspension is much more compliant now (pushing on the rear bumper), and much more comfortable and not as harsh! I thought I got a good deal off of eBay at $34.11 each; however, Amazon is selling them at $21.20 each (buying a pair and it is free shipping)! Per their link below, they will fit 1985-1989 1 ton pickup trucks, so they should fit 1985-1989 motorhomes.

http://www.amazon.co...=au_pf_dp_chart

[bufbooth]

I also carry the tank repair version of JB-Weld, it can be used on your gas tank and should be able to work on your water tanks (fresh, gray, and black) if needed. I also carry about a foot of PVC pipe, a few connectors, hacksaw, and the PVC cleaner/glue. A cracked water line can shut down the sink and shower in a hurry.

Also, be sure to change your fuel filter if you have not yet done so.

Be sure to bring your own tire air gauge, a lot of gas stations only have a gauge

that goes up to 50psi.

Dennis...

[flatspin]

FYI. After reading this post, I purchased some KYB KG5466 Gas-a-Just Monotube Shocks for our 1985 21' Sunrader hoping to smooth out the rear suspension some. It turns out that it had some Monroe Gas-Magnums on it. The Sunrader rear suspension is much more compliant now (pushing on the rear bumper), and much more comfortable and not as harsh! I thought I got a good deal off of eBay at $34.11 each; however, Amazon is selling them at $21.20 each (buying a pair and it is free shipping)! Per their link below, they will fit 1985-1989 1 ton pickup trucks, so they should fit 1985-1989 motorhomes.

http://www.amazon.co...=au_pf_dp_chart

21 bucks... holy smackers. I'm going to have a look!

I think i may actually go for these instead. twice the price, but when they print 'heavy duty' on the side my marketing antennae go on full alert http://www.amazon.co...otive&carId=001