longwater

you can buy a new ac unit ,it is 13.5k output for less than $500 brand new and the shipping is free from ppl.If your still interested i will find their website. My sunraider's unit is only a 7k ,but that unit is not available,this unit is the replacement,and fits perfect.

I would like suggestions for camp grounds in the upper peninsula of michigan,I am not looking for rv parks but rather state campgrounds .I have been there many times and have a few favorites but always looking for someplace new. anyone who has never been there will be surprised at the beauty of the great northern part of this state. LW

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice, after looking the tank and fittings over I am a little concerned about the tank itself,there are a few spots along the bottom that have bubbled down to bare metal that makes me wonder if it could be a pinhole in the tank. I just had cataract surgery on tues,so my vision has been a little off. I decided to just order a new tank made by manchester,it is the same size,holds 7.9 gallons .The gauge is in a lower location so it will be easier to read,I should have it in about a week.I am planning a trip up to michigan in july and most places don't have hook ups so the 7.9 gallons will be a big advantage thanks again. LW

I called a few propane dealers and they suggest a rv service shop,so I called one and they won;t repair a used tank but will replace it.I : not sure of the correct terminology for the fittings.There is a small port that sticks out that has a tag on it that says stop filling when liquid comes out.there does not seem to be a way to remove this part. then there is a filling connection that is connected to the tank with 4 bolts.next there is a open / shut valve that is a tee the left side has a blue plastic cap that is easily removed but I don;t know what that side would be used for.On the right side of the tee the regulator is connected and feeds the appliances,above the valve is the fuel gauge,held in with 4 screws. the tank is 31" long and 10"diameter .I think it will be easy to remove but the fuel line from the fill to the gas tank ( for the engine ) is real tight.th is is a 2" pipe,so bending it a little might be tough . Iam not sure what 5 toy is sayng about the bleeder.any help is appreciated

thanks maineah , I will call around today.I would rather have it repaired than spend $400 on a new one.

thanks 5toy,I think that since the valve is shut off that the leak would be in the tank or fittings,but I am hoping someone can confirm that.I discovered the leak at the end of last season,and I tried to use soap and water to find it without any luck I should have used my grandsons bubbles maybe it would have made it eaiser to find.Now I have to have the tank filled again.I am not sure where to find someone who repairs them. The tee setup you describe is exactly what I want ,for a bbq grill and extra fuel in case I run outI would like to know whatparts can be replaced or new gaskets .my tank is mounted behind an access door and is filled in place. before I buy a new tank I would to see if there is a cheaper option.

My 87 sunrader has developed a slight leak in the propane tank.It leaks while the valve has the tank shut off.I have searched for old post,but haven't found anything that covers any part that could be replaced,so I am looking for any help as to what could be leaking.The tank is horizonal and I think it is 5.5 or 6 gallons.I have looked around at new tanks but they are around $400.When I either repair or replace the tank I would like to install a tee on the supply line so I could use a 20# tank as a extra supply.Any help or suggestions will help. Thanks Jim

thanks for the replys,I think I will drive the toy down to auto-zone and have it tested,and then find a more reliable source for a replacement. (sorry auto zone,I do buy parts there )Years ago when a alternator went bad you could repair it yourself.I had a '83 toy the alternator quit charging,I took it apart and was amazed at the quality compared to a GM unit,it had roller bearings My lights came on ever since I bought instead of the sealed bearings.I just replaced the brushes for a few dollars.How the times have changed. My brake and battery light came on everytime I started it up every since I bought it 2 years ago,and would go out after raising the rpms.I'm glad it happened now before I was out on the road.

I know this post was from last year but with camping seasonalready here I thought I would share my favorite spots in Ohio. (1) hocking hills,the state campground at old mans cave is my favorite,but it is very popular and can get busy,research the area it is really the garden spot of the state. (2)lake hope,another state campground,it is about 20 miles south of hocking hills There are several private campgrounds near hocking hills (3) shawnee forest It is also a state campground and is in a beautiful part of the state.I hope that some of you will enjoy these great locations

I started to get my toy ready for the up coming season.I have a few items that need attention and was going to start on that list,but now something has made its way to the top. First let me say that my toy always had the brake light and battery light come on when I started it up,and I had to rev it up a couple thousand rpms and this would make them go out.I mean everytime .I start and drive it about every month during the winter,just to keep it exercised.This week when it started the brake lite and battery light won't go out. My first thing I am going to check will be the alternator.Has anybody ever had a problem like this?Because if the alternator is ok I would like to know what to check next.The truck battery is new and has good voltage,the house battery is old and is one of the items that will be replaced. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions. Jim

Thanks for the replys,I might try the spacers,but I like the fabricated brackets.I don't have a welder but I have thought about one of the cheaper wire feed welders that I have seen.It would be cheaper to buy one than buy my friend beer.As I said I have had other toy pickups and never had a problem with leg room.My rader is in great shape with low miles so I wouldn't want to get rid of it . I have cruise but I never use it, I prefer to drive on state routes rather than interstates. I just have to find a fix before summer. I wonder if replacing the seat tracks or remounting the existing ones might work.

I have a 87 sunrader that has very cushioned seats,they are in great shape.The problem is I need more leg room,now Im only 5'10" and my legs aren't that long.I have had other toyota pickups and haven't had any problems,but on long drives in the sunrader my knees start hurting.I think the padding is keeping me from being able to extend my legs out.I hate to replace the seats,but we are planing a long trip next summer and I want to be comfortable.If anyone has had this problem I would like to hear your solution.

thanks Maineah,Mine has a after market radio that someone connected to the cig lighter wire.( I will change that when I replace the radio )I still had a draw when I disconnected that fuse.I hoped there would be a relay that was stuck.I'll keep looking

I have traced the problem to the horn side of the system..Did toyota use a horn relay on the 1987 trucks,if dhey did where is it located.

1987,sorry I left that out

I went out to start my sunrader and the battery was dead,I just replaced the battery 6 weeks ago.I have used the MH all summer including a 2400mile trip,and had no problems.Here is where I'm at in trouble shooting.I charged the battery,installed it and left the Neg cable off.connected my test light between the cable and the neg terminal,and the light was on. started pulling fuses under the dash,and nothing made the light go out.Iwent to the fuse panel under the hood and when I pulled the horn/hazzard fuse the light goes out.I removed the panel to get to the flasher,pulled the flasher,light stays on,pulled the steering cover panel and I don''t see anything pinched.My question is after I remove the flasher and the test light stays on should I look between the flasher and battery,or could it be somewhere after the flasher.The lights work on the rear when I reconnect everything and turn on the flashers,and the horn works.thanks for any suggestions

It was made in 1999,it looked like new,the center of it blew a piece out of it and it split up to the rim.It was on a sunday and my spare is just a 5 lug,so there wasn't any place open to have it switched over.I just limped on home on the back roads.I could not drive over 30mph because the tire would flap and hit my fiberglass wheelwell. Jim

I replaced my set of tires in june after I had a blowout on my way back from a weekend trip. I had discount tire order a set of 356 yokahamas for me.You really have to explain to most dealers what you need,and most of the time they want a middle #,anyway the guy at discount tire took the time to make a few calls and got me a set in 2 days.Out the door for $731.00. We went on vacation for a month and I met 3 toy owners,and not one new what type of tire that their toy needed.One guy had his for 18 yrs.,and had white walls on the rear,I don't think they were anything that had been made in recent years.

The first thing is to be sure you have the correct thermostat . I have a v-twin motorcycle that is air cooled,in slow traffic it would run hot( I have a temp gage in the oil tank on the side of yhe bike.) I changed to a synthetic oil and the oil temperature went down. If you change the oil yourself it will cnly cost about $8 more than a good dino oil. LW

Here are some things I keep in my tool box. (1) J-B weld,I used it on many things It will even repair a hole in a radiator ,it takes 24 hrs to set. (2) Sandpaper/steelwool (3) wire or a coathanger (4) radiator stopleak make sure it has fine metal,copper or aluminum (5)wire connectors and electric tape ( 6) extra 1157 lightbulbs-tail lights (7) muffler bandage these things won't take up very much room,also a testlight,a multimeter is better but a testlight will work. Brake fluid,jumper cables and a quart of oil. Hopefully you will never need any of these. LW

thanks Chief, mine has a flexible hose that connects to the fuel tank then it attaches to a metal pipe that looks like a piece of exhaust pipe and it runs up to the area below the fuel fill, but as it turns up it goes through a fiberglass wall and has expandable foam shot all around it. It sounds like I just have to jump right into this and expect the worst. I don't think that I can use both hands because of the fiberglass panel that the pipe runs through. I hoped that when I removed the cover around the gas cap I might be able to remove the hose and replace that, but are you saying that the metal pipe might have problems also? I have about 3 weeks before we plan on leaving, I guess the fun starts tomorrow. Anyone else with information or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks LW

I have been working on my Sunrader, getting it ready for a long trip that I hope will begin in late June. When I filled it with gas, I saw gas leaking from the fill neck, running down and dripping off the metal tube that goes into the fuel tank. The question I have is can I get to the hose by removing the screws that hold the cover that's around the fill cap? maybe 10 screws or so. After I filled it the leak stopped. I had it on auto fill while I cleaned the windows, I don't think I'm lucky enough that it would be just that simple that it was caused by the auto fill.

I have a large Rott.,but she only protects me from getting into some campgrounds.Firearms have different laws depending where you travel.I usually have a longbow with me but not for defense purposes.I also have a machett and a hatchet.The best thing to carry for camp safety is bear spray,it has a longer range than pepper spray. LW

I guess the question is are you capable of doing the rebuild yourself.You will need machine work on the block,and head.If you have the ability ,you can save some money and pick quality parts,although no warranty. You could take it to a shop and have it rebuilt,if you know the shop,you may feel more secure but this may be the most expensive route,you will probably get some kind of warranty.The other option would be to buy a rebuilt long block,( or short block if your head has been rebuilt or replaced ) There are a lot of auto parts stores that offer rebuilt engines.Most will offer a 3 year warranty,still someone will have to remove and replace the engine. This is the route that I would take,when I was younger I would have rebuilt it myself,but now I like the warranty.As far as getting a better cam I think there has been alot of discussion on this forum and most say stick with the stock cam. LW

You will ned a piece of clear tubing that will fit over the transmission line going to your transmission cooler.( you have two lines connected to the cooler ,one comes from the transmission,the other side comes out of your cooler and goes into your radiator.You want the one coming from the trans.) First find out how many qts.your transmission holds,and have the right quanity plus one or two extra.you will need two empty clear plastic milk or other jugs with dark lines marking Quart measurements. Drain the transmission then Remove the transmission pan.Measure the amount of fluid that you drained.Next remove and clean the filter screen.( you can replace it if you desire)Use a lint free cloth or a new paint brush and brake clean to clean the pan and filter ,leave no lint . Use a new gasket. Replace the filter and pan.DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS as they will shear off. just tighten on a pattern opposite across from the last bolt. tighten each one a little at a time until all are snug. Add the same amount of new ATF in the transmission fill tube as you removed.Remove the line to your cooler and connect the clear tubing,then place the other end in one of the gallon bottles.Have the caps removed from the new Atf so its ready to pour.Now have a assistant get in and start your vehicle.SET the Emergency brake,Hold their foot on the brake pedal and slowly move the shift selector from park to reverse to neutral to drive to 2nd to 1st,then back up to reverse.MAKE SURE TO WATCH THE JUG ,AND ADD FLUID AS THE OLD FLUID REACHES THE MARKS ON THE JUG.You can shut off the ignition to switch jugs,then resume the process.Allow the transmission to remain in each selection ( R-N-D-2-1 )a few seconds as you flush.You should see the fluid start to change color as you finish.Run about 1 quart additional through to esure its flushed.Reconect the cooler line and check the fluid level.Never Overfill. If you do not have a transmission cooler this will be the time to install one.Good luck LW