WME

Shimming the upper balljoint will do nothing. For shimming the balljoint to work there must be spring pressure on the A-arm, like an early Ford Falcon/Mustang. Shimming the lower ball joint/taller balljoint will lower the car if that is where the spring mounts. Lose a leaf spring and carry whatever air pressure is needed to get the correct "ride" height. Have 2 air pressure fill points for side to side adjustments when parked. The ride improvements over small bumps is most likely due to the new bushings

https://www.foamorder.com/foam/upholstery-foam.html These folks can provide different weight foams and memory foam to build a layered cushion...

A bit cheaper here...https://www.adventurerv.net/propane-gas-horizontal-tank-p-8390.htmlhttp://v

Read all of the Odessy 4x4 rebuild... ahttp://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/10983-the-1990-toyota-odyssey-v6-4x4-that-we-call-the-comvee-warning-long-post-with-photos/& AND the 86 Conquest rebuild...http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9620-86-conquest-complete-rebuild/&tab=comments#comment-88273

If enough heat comes out of the vents on top. Maybe one of these would be help...https://www.amazon.com/Boone-Hearth-Powered-Blade-Thermometer/dp/B012U97NUI/ref=pd_day0_hl_201_3/141-7345966-9991906?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B012U97NUI&pd_rd_r=b19553c8-3240-11e9-ade1-d126a5984129&pd_rd_w=Stno2&pd_rd_wg=HGa6J&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=E74HN75WBCDZKP6KGSCY&psc=1&refRID=E74HN75WBCDZKP6KGSCY

At one time the local Cruise America folks would mileage out the Class C units. Then they would remove the house and install it on a new C&C. They would install a cabover box on the old chassis and sell the resulting box truck on the local market. If they do this local to you maybe they would have some of the sealing strip

Not a Toyota, but a totally awesome build. There may be some ideas for the folks who are doing major rebuilds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW-ikFvkPnQ

16 gauge, use 1xxx or 3xxx series aluminum. Other flavors of aluminum are not as "bendable". Plan B go to a big box store and look at FRP panels. Depending on your desired truck lifespan FRP and sheet metal screws would give you an easy, to do quick, fix. Caulk it, screw it use a hairdryer to help bend it. Use house paint or fiberglass to protect it

What the title says...https://www.sylvansport.com/#

Forgot. Doing sheet metal work these guys are a real help..https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLJ1WP1/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B06WLJ1WP1&pd_rd_w=ytMVB&pf_rd_p=10ebaf99-73de-4f5d-a994-e7f5fc52f86f&pd_rd_wg=fztBt&pf_rd_r=1203GSA5G02REQYKJZHD&pd_rd_r=1be1f8cc-3003-11e9-9ca9-bfc9d94bcb73.

A sheet of aluminum will work. They make Glue to bond panels for repair instead of welding..https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-8116-PANEL-BONDING-ADHESIVE-W-8571-APPLICATOR/253438089540?epid=1037315137&hash=item3b02165944:g:nOQAAOSwiBJaExHM:rk:7:pf:0. Some well placed rivets and the glue will do nicely. Start with the top, glue and then bend it around the corner. After the back side is attached, cut the window hole. Glue some thin plywood to make the window frame. Then use one of the old rv windows. Seal all the edges with Dico.

The curb weight of a 1987Toyota pickup is 3140 lbs and that is what the brake system is designed to work with (+cargo weight). A 6000lb MH badly distorts things. That is why you need to deal with the brakes as a system and change the OEM set up to deal with 6000lb

What he said, your toy has a brake SYSTEM. 1. Your brake system is for an empty 3000 pickup. 2. Air bags screw up the rear bias valve. 3. New brakes and adjust the rear valve is the answer. A lot of the bias valves are rusted up. With a little work they can be removed

Dry oilite bearings on the blower/fan motor. Crafty person answer, remove the motor, drill a tiny hole in each bearing bulge. Use a hypo to inject some 10 weight synthetic oil. Do this for several days. Simi crafty buy a new motor and install it. None of the above go to your local RV repair shop for new fan motor/new heater.

Decisions, decisions... fish or paint the truck. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

I live in the mountains in WY, if you don't go in the winter you don't do much for 5 months a year. With decent all season tires they do pretty good in snow. Rear weight basis ya know. I have driven over South Pass several times in the winter with my Toy, even pulling a trailer. The magic is a SMART CAREFUL DRIVER going slowly. Unless you're going off the road, over a cliff or into a 4ft high snowdrift, don't ever stop, even if the rears are spinning. Chains are a last resort. If its really that bad stay home Also on my toy the brake basis was set FULL to the rear Now on real ice fergetaboutit. Also, a limited slip on ice is bad juju, with both tires spinning and a little road camber the rear will slide off to the low side. With an open differential you may not be able to go, but on an iced up off-camber road the tire that isn't spinning will give you some side bite and that maybe thats enough to keep you on the road. On dry pavement and an overabundance of HP a limited slip is a true wonder.

With a sharp point electrode, it takes 20,000v to fire a 1/8" gap. Electricity is very lazy if it can make a complete circuit somewhere other than the gap it will. That includes YOU. While 20KV normally won't kill you, your reflex jerk can cause you a lot of harm. Be CAREFUL around live HV circuits

Yep, 3 bushing sets per spring. New springs will settle some in the first 200 miles or so. The whole bushing thing is that badly worn bushings (25-year-old OEM rubber) will let the spring move at the mounting points. Hit a bump and the spring will move up and down a 1/2" and then clangs to a stop when the mounting bolt hits the frame/shackle resulting in a noisy and harsh ride. With good bushings, the spring just flexes and the suspension works as designed. The off-road suspension folks have Poly bushing sets. They are a little firmer and last longer. KYB are very good shocks, Bilsteins are very very good shocks

FWIW, this was my thing.. I messed with the springs, shackles and bushings until the empty Toy sat level. After loading every everything I adjusted the air pressure in the bags until the rear was about 1/2" high.

A Bilstein shock has a preload of 30-40lbs, so yes a Bilstein will lift a Toy with bad springs...BUT not much. You need good springs to do the lifting. A real old school method of finding correct tire pressure. Get some school kit sidewalk chalk. Find a long empty parking lot, make a wide line across the tires. Drive in a straight line. Then look at the chalk line and see where it's worn. Rubbed off on the edges+low pressure, rubbed off in the middle= high pressure. If you have to do this on a road, be careful and avoid turns. This will work with radial tires but it's not as sensitive so you may need to drive longer

K.I.S.S Fergetaboutalota of sexy modifications, use it basically as it is for 6 months or so. Then you should have a good idea about needs vs wants and act accordingly. When using a fantastic fan just open windows on the shady side. Make sure they have screens. If you're not going with a generator or solar, then go through your "house" and replace all the 12v light bulbs with LED bulbs Measure your battery box and see if there is possibly room for the next size larger battery. The isolator you have consumes .7v. If your cables/connector are off a bit then your battery is undercharged. On a static battery, .7v is the difference between 100% and 50% charged. Your charging system should deliver 13.5v + to the house battery or your up the creek.

Don't forget to replace the spring bushings.

What is your isolator?? A 3x5 aluminum block with fins or the 35mm film can size one??

I THINK that the drive shaft is OK, BUT that the bolt flange on the new axle may have to be changed. Any case take everything you have including the driveshaft. As they better to have and not need than the other way.

As a new owner, this will become your new BFF...https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=voltmeter Get one and learn to use. You need to check the truck battery voltage, the isolator v in&out, house battery v. All with the truck engine off and running. You will also have to check the v at your fuse panel. Your Toy is 34+ years old, you have no idea what has problems from old age and what is bad from poor decisions by a previous owner (PO)