WME

Looking at the new pics, I think that the answer is in the triangular braces. Just make them larger and tie the sides to the "box" structure. Steve is headed in the right direction of thought with the old fiberglass on the roof acting as a "hinge", especially if is has mini cracks like you say

From the pictures it looks like you are going have to connect the roof supports to some new supports on the side.

The long rod. Try it for awhile. Then you can figure out a more perment fix.

Well its broke right, so you can't hurt it by trying the liquid rubber.

My rig had muffler steel 90 deg elbows and gas approved rubber hose.

Well on a 22re its called an Air Valve.

Not a diesel, but in reality a lot more useful for the average Toy mh user.

Two layers of foil and one of foam would completly fill your 1x1 studs so where you attach the last layer doesn't matter.

About the boat, Exactly, no air gaps. Except for maybe between the final layer of foil and the wall. By this time the foil is warm so that condensation is NOT a problem. You will read that the first layer of foil was glued to the hull and the foam was glued to the foil and the last layer of foil was glued to the foam.

Don't know what this would do, but its an easy do for brighter tail lights. http://www.ronfrancis.com/products.asp?dept=94 They also have parts to rebuild some lights.

The foil will be cold in the winter, the inside of an rv has very high humidity from the people, cooking, and the heater. The moist air will condense on the foil the resulting water will run down the INSIDE of the walls and cause rot on the floor. If you don't do winter then it doesn't mean as much. Adjust the thickness of the foil/foam so that the paneling just compresses it a tiny bit. Caulk the edge of foam to seal out the moisture. House usage has different rules than RV usage.

The foam acts as your air space. The air space is to prevent conductive loses. A "real" air space can be a source of condinsation.

Uni-solar. They are out of business. Good deals on e-bay. Large size for watts out.

What he said, Rotella is fine in a Toyota MH

No boats on my roof...Maybe the Yukon guy.

A leaky AC mount is a $20.00 DIY fix with a new gasket.

I thought we were talking about bathroom fans, per orginal post. I can deal with ugly as long as its cheap enough.;-)

Go to PPL site and search Vortex vent fan conversion, cheaper and will move a lot more air. Add a $5dpdt switch and it will reverse, all for less than $55.

Old timie trick if you don't have a compressor. Remove all spark plugs, turn engine by hand, till both valves are closed on cylinder, stuff in about 12" of small rope, leave some outside for removal. Turn engine until it locks up. Change seals as per above. PS not sure if you can remove springs without removing camshaft, cam bolts are head bolts too.

Pro seal 34 or 230 have worked great for me.

No idea how yours is wired, BUT the standard color code for tail lights is.... yellow..left stop and turn white....ground green...right stop and turn blue ..trailer brakes??? maybe just running tail lights red .... backup light. YMMV A helper and a voltmeter would be a really big help

Insulating http://www.frugal-mariner.com/Insulating.html Waterproof paneling is FRP available at Lowes and Home Depot http://www.frpshop.com/liner-panels-c-3_4.html

Karin, don't bother with the wall warts. Just hard wire to 12v, if your in a campground then plug in your RV and run the converter to keep the battery up. WME

If your a big time winter operator, these are what you need, self applying chains http://www.onspot.com/

As long as the bottom of the aux tank is higher than the bottom of the main tank. AND it has a separate filler it should work. Don't forget to connect the vent lines to each other too. Fill main tank first, then aux, then top off main. A remote fuel solenoid would eliminate the juggling. WME