WME

Hook up to a proper RV drain, empty the tanks and using a couple of 1 gallon jugs measure how much it takes to fill them. P.S. IF the tank topside vent is plugged the tanks won't fill to capacity due to trapped air. WME

. If you look at John's picture you'll see how the panel is wired notice that the neutral (white wire) and the ground (bear/green wires) are separated in a house they can be bonded together but not in the MH. This is VERY important

The buckles are signs of being the inside radius on a compression bend. I.E. somebody put a ton of weight on the extensions. You might be able to cut out the bad sections, jack up the rear until things are right and then weld a long L shaped renforcing plate on the side/bottom of the frame at the junction.

Some more random usless thoughts...... My AC panel was the same. I installed a 30 amp main breaker feeding a 15 and 20 amp breaker, yes thats more than 30 amps but the main protects that. The 15 amp went to the house and the 20 went to the A/C and the microwave. You could do the house with the 15 amp and use the 20 amp for Job stuff With no ac charger it would be simple to to just get a K-mart 12v charger plug it into the house side and use it to keep the battery up. By hooking the charger to the AC before the converter you would be charging the battery any time you were plugged in no matter what position the 12v dc power switch was in.

Got a picture of the AC unit???

You make the hole the right size, attach the vent on the top of the roof with screws and butyl tape. The garnish trim goes up from the inside and is screwed to the roof with 4 simple screws, no tape. The garnish trim can be trimmed if its to tall or you can make a wood spacer to make your roof thick enough to use the stock trim.

There should be two wires coming out of the theromostat. Let things rest a bit and then turn on the A/C and short the wires, the compressor should kick on and stay on. If it cuts out then the A/C is bad. If it keeps runing then just buy the correct theromostat from an RV dealer.

A thermostat just turns the A/C compressor on or off. If the compressor is running and not making enough cold air then the A/C is bad.

I think you are discusing 2 different problems. Maybe what your looking for is something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROGRESSIVE-DYNAMICS-45-AMP-RV-POWER-CONVERTER-CHARGER-WITH-AC-DC-PANEL-PD4045-/150967364733?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23265b2c7d&vxp=mtr#ht_1071wt_732

You won't be able to bend the frame back permintly without a lot of hydralic power. But your plan should give you some idea of how much things need to be adjusted. Just jack slowly and use lots of eyeball to check things. Maybe unbolt the floor from the frame and install some sort spacer.

If your making any mistakes, it will become apparent during your shakedown trips. Maybe much later you will discover a better way of doing something and then you will "fix" your orginal design to be better, things just work that way. Its not just about duffle bags. My dislike for duffel, gym, carry-on bags and in general lack of creature comforts is from living out of bags for months at a time in some god forsaken part.of the world, having to rig a fire hose and a billy pump to take a shower 2x a week using nasty smelly (but safe) water out of a rubber blivit for 15 + years. Now I consider roughing it when I have to rewatch a dvd cause I can't find a Redbox to get a new video. Again you have to make you happy, not me. So good luck on your Toy. P.S. there is never enough drawers or closet space,

Just offering a suggestion based on long experance and some other folks ideas. The deal is, you are the only one that you have to keep happy. So have fun and enjoy your Toy.

Oh Kay, a gym bag or a carry on. Well good luck with your plans. At least nothings permanent you can always "fix" things after some time on the road.

I hate duffel gags, been there and done that for too long and too many times. If you can give up some overhead bunk space I've seen where somebody built a small set of drawers that were about 12" deep and went up to the bottom of the front windows. He added a small rail to the top and had a no slip shelf for glasses, a glass of water, books and other comfort night time items.

Looks goood. How much storage space do you have, as in your stuff vs job vs cooking?

Sounds like you need a new propane place. A lot of the new kids don't know about the spit valve on the older tanks. Its a very simple system that work for many years with pros filling the tanks. It also sounds like your propane safety valve system worked as it was supposed to, when the pressure dropped enough it stop venting. The spit valve is near the knob that turns off the propane, look for a small flush straight slot screw head. MAKE SURE there are no flames around, close the main propane valve, take a screw driver and unscrew the spit valve slowly. If if just vents gas then you are good to go, it it spits out liquid let it vent until only gas is coming out.

With out a spring compressor, you jack up the front, remove the tire, loosen but DONOT remove the lower ball joint nut. Place a jack under the lower control arm, pop the ball joint lose, jack up the lower arm a small amount and remove the nut. THEN CAREFULLY lower the jack until the spring pressure is gone and remove the spring. Put it back together with the reverse procedure

Thats a lot of Dynamat. That stuff is big bucks.

The book pressure checks are done after 2 seconds

The LSPV IS a pressure reducing device!! The factory book says at @ 700 psi on the front brakes there should be 500 psi on the rear, in harder stop with 1400 psi on the front there should be 800 psi on the rear. AND that adjusting the threaded shackle the psi on the rear will change about 8.5 psi per 1 turn of the adjuster. I agree with the posts that John has a mechanical problem. I adjusted my valve and all the way up and the breaking was much improved. On a dirt/gravel I could lock all 6 wheels, but never the rears alone

Thats the whole problem the Braking system is perfect for a 1/2 ton pickup. But its installed on a 3 ton motorhome. The mechanical device is easily confused and will do all the wrong things. WME

I think the stuff on the water heater might be a winterize by pass. It allows you to winterize your rv with out filling the heater with 6 gallons of anti freeze. I'm a fan of filling your fresh tank and pumping as needed, at least till you have a year or so of fixing leaks.

With a "normal" p trap the 1.5" vent is needed. BUT with this new style Karin is talking about draining the tank won't be a problem because her P trap will vent the tank during draining. As far as emptying the sink I think the the new trap will be the slow point and not the tank vent. As far as the stinkies we'll know, when she knows. One of the wind vane vents on the black tank vent will take care of almost all the smell problems there. Or these guys newer answer https://360productsnorthamerica.com/site/rv_vent_faqs

I'd go with Freds ideas. If its wood some primer and child proof paint would work. Thinking about removing the carpet gives me the willys

UH, your black tank vent is still there, Right?? The vent should be on the top if the tank and the stack should run up a wall or in a cabinet/closet