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Sounds like maybe you will get your wish and it's time for me to retreat from this place. If this forum - according to you - is now a place where facts about Toyota RVs cannot be discussed, challenged, etc. - that this place has gone too far downhill for me. I can understand when the focus is emotions, or politics, etc. But if an engine for sale is new or not cannot be discussed? Yell all you want Linda. I certainly cannot hear you from here in northern Michigan.

I came across a Toyota pickup in a junkyard a few days ago. It was 2WD and five-speed trans and 4 cylinder, so it caught my eye. It was so rusty it literally broke in half when someone tried to pick it up with a loader. I wish now I'd taken some photos. I had a four-cylinder engine I did not recognize so I assumed was too new to use in any Toyota from the 80s. According to Marlin's database, the rear splines are different on these newer 5 speed transmissions. I think - but am not sure - the truck was a 1996. That would mean a either a 2.4 or a 2.7 liter engine. I did some research and it seems it is one heck of an engine and a nice upgrade from a older 2.2 or 2.4. So now I am looking into maybe putting one of there newer, more efficient engines into my older Toyota. I went back today to the junkyard and to my dismay - the owner had already ripped the engine and trans out and crushed the truck. I now have no idea of exactly what it was as far as model and year goes. Transmission got the shift tore right off and also a hole punched through the tailshaft. But two days ago the guy wanted $300 just for the trans. Today I got the trans, bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, etc. for a total of $75. I do NOT know what I have. I seem to now have the parts I need to put a newer engine into my RV and have all the parts to put manual trans in. Not great photos I know. But does anyone know the difference from the outside between a 2.4 or 2.7? Models 2RZ-FE or 3RZ-FE. From what I've read so far, the 2WD trucks tended to have the 2.4 liter (2RZ-FE). I do not recognize the trans yet either but DID discover this. The rear splines are NOT different. Just same as the older ones. Even from a 1978 Chinook. The newer 2.4 seems to be a great upgrade and near a bolt-in swap. I was cursing the flywheel when I was taking it off. 10 bolts holding that little thing on and all the bolts had some sort of Loctite on them. Note the 22RE only has 6 bolts holding on the flywheel. Some specs comparing our older engines to these two newer straight-fours. 20R I4 95 HP @ 4800 RPM, 122 lbs. @ 2400 RPM 1978 22R-E I4 114 HP @ 4800 RPM, 140 lbs. @ 3600 RPM 1985-1997 3VZ-E V6 150 HP @ 4800 RPM, 180 LBS. @ 3400 RPM 1988-95 2RZ-FE I4 142 HP @ 5000 RPM, 160 lbs. @ 4000 RPM 1995-2004 3RZ-FE I4 150 HP @ 5000 RPM, 177 lbs. @ 4000 RPM 1995-2004

Stop what? Geez. I thought posting the availability of new 22RE engines might be of interest to some people here. Not exactly meant to be in any way controversial. In my world, "new" is "new." If someone says otherwise - that too is kind of relevant here and I'd like to see some actual facts.

I did not know anything until recently about these little axles GM uses in S10 trucks and Astrovans. I have a 1998 S10 rust-free I got from Alabama. I am going to cut the frame and lengthen it about 7" so a Chinook body will fit on to it. After researching a little, I found that just about all S10s come with the 7.5" differential and small diameter axles. I don't care about the differential size. It is the axle-size that concerns me. The 7.5" rear only has axles 1.4" in diameter. Note that the so-called Toyota "death axles" are 1.57". Ends up if an S10 has the ZR2 option, the rear axle is 3" wider , has the 8.5" differential, and axles that are 1.6" diameter. I have no idea if such an axle was available for Astrovans. Seems it should of been. So this is the axle I have been hunting for. I DID find one in the junkyard but the guy wants $350 for it. I know where there is another 150 miles away for $100. I was hoping not to make that trip, but now I guess I will. So, all this work just to make an S10 as strong as all the Toyotas have been since 1975.

Again, you said the engine I was referring to was not new - and it IS. It is as simple as that. You can convolute the discussion all you want, but that fact remains the same. I have been unable to verify the quality of these engines. I DO know they are all new, so bore is standard size and not oversize. Crankshaft is also new to all journals are standard sizes and not undersize. No "CNN" hit here. I simply replied to one of your incorrect sentences. Others may be too. But as I already stated several times - I do not yet have specs on things like quality of metals, hardening processes, etc.

Oh come on! Spare me the BS. I said they are new - and they are. You said they are "not new" and you were wrong. I never said they were made by Toyota. It has been an Asian tradition for a long time to make brand new replacement engines instead of rebuilding. Or - like Datsun used to do - use brand-new casted cylinder-blocks so the cylinder-bores were standard size, but reuse major parts like rods and crankshafts. In this case - all parts are new. Brand new blocks, cranks, rods, pistons, head-castings, camshafts, etc. The following is from you. And it is wrong. That is unless you are reinventing the word "remanufactured." These engines are "manufactured" new. I will also note that I have requesting detailed info on them like nickel content in the block casting, if the crankshafts have hardened journals, harness of the valve seats, etc. So far, I have not gotten those specs. Are YOU claiming you did? If so, please post along the source. THIS is a quote from you . . "the "brand new" 22re for $2000 is not exactly brand new. Its remanufactured and not to factory tolerances. "

Could be. I have never looked close at a 1980. I mean actually manufactured in 1980. Many model-year 1980 RVs have 1979 trucks under them. I know for sure the 20R in 1977, 1978 and 1979 has an electric pump. If it does have a mechanical pump on the engine, in some ways, it makes things even more hard to diagnose. If it is drawing air due to leak on the intake side, you won't see any leaks or gas dripping on the ground. I went to that junkyard yesterday to seek out some Chevy rear-axle parts (like for a Tiger Astro camper). Ended up I found the HD axle I wanted but the price was so high - I did not buy it. But that 1978 Toyota mothorhome? Seems the junkyard owner hates Toyotas and Datsuns and sold me the parts cheap. He says he never buys them. This 1978 was kind of dumped at his place, free of charge. So for $40, I bought the carb, and the entire electronic ignition system with the distributor. Carb is in surpriisingly good shape, despite the cob-webs. Even still pumping gas (gas did not turn to sludge). In my part of the country, old Toyotas in junkyards are very rare. Most were crushed years ago and turned into new Chevys or Fords. Linda - I'd love to see a photo of the rear axle in your Tiger. I am wondering now if Provan special ordered those Astrovans with the heavier ZR2 axles? Easy to tell with a glance. The axle tubes are a larger diameter near the center and then taper back to a smaller size for the HD axle.

No fuel to the carb means either the electric fuel pump in the tank is not working,or the fuel filter is plugged.

I gave my son in Colorado my 1992 Dodge Cummins diesel truck. 4WD. extended cab, 8 foot bed, etc. Like driving a cross between a freight-train and a Sherman tank. Has pretty beefy springs in back plus air-bag suspension. When I gave it to him. it has a 10 foot Coachmen camper on it and rode quite well. Well - it was the first camper he ever had. He did a lot of rough-terrain off-roading with it going elk hunting in Wyoming. Says the camper shook apart. So he just bought this Alpenite. Makes that truck look Toyota sized now. Also sagging a little.

Here is another brand-new one. That is . . unless they are committing fraud and you have some inside info I am not privy to.

If someone already did a compression check - why the heck wasn't some oil squirted into the low cylinder? That is standard procedure and will tell you right away if the low reading is from a leaking valve or piston/cylinder wear.

No Totem, I believe you are wrong. Please do not try to correct me unless you have some evidence to the contrary. You cannot - at not at least until I refer to a specific deal. I know of several places that sell brand new Toyota engines. New blocks,new heads, etc. I cannot say if they are of the same quality as OEM was when these engines were built new. I am talking about a brand new engine, not rebuilt. I DO know what the words mean. I also know the difference from "rebuilt" and "new." I can buy a brand-new 22RE for $1600 and a rebuilt for $1000. I'm talking long-blocks. I assume made in China just like the new complete heads with cams are.

I did a couple of 4WD conversions of Datsun and Toyota trucks back in the 70s before the were available OEM. Lot of work. Why reinvent the wheel now that they are factory made? I'd just get a 4WD truck already setup and put your body on it - if that is important to you.