Honda EU2000i case temperature

[jjrbus]

I had an extension welded on my Honda muffler and Muffler guy with 40 years experience said 1" was too big and used 1/2" conduit for a 1' extension.

I neglected to get some base temperatures from generator before doing  this. I

I am now concerned that it is running too warm.  Could someone with an unmodified EU2000i and a temp gun give me a couple readings on the case and cooling air exhaust area, with ambient temp?

I have looked all over the net for this and am not finding it, a link to operating temps would work also.
                                       Jim

[Totem]

mt dave has 2 i think... Linda has the carb compliant cali one

Edited July 21, 2016 by Totem

[ToyoGuy]

Someone may have PM'ed to reply to this, but I'd hate to think that a man who thinks so much could go unaddressed.   (Plus I was curious mice elf) These temps were taken w / a Harvard Freight temp gun, tested it before, and it was on the money. Ambient outside temp was : 77 degrees, Cal humidity is about 50%,  generator running 20 minutes, no load however. Genny was sitting in the sun. Temps as in photos,  BR, TG

 

[jjrbus]

Well thank you very much greatly appreciated!   My genset seemed too hot, but I am not used to it as it gets very little use.  I have for emergency backup at the house.

Anyway I looked all over the net and could not find anything, except one ans on another forum.  

I checked my temp at the base of the handle front (operating end) and rear (exhaust end)   The highest case temp on the front was 107 and on the rear was 116. Seemed too warm so I kicked myself fro not getting a base temp before starting.  The Temperature around the exhaust baffle/vent varies from spot to spot, ranging from a low of 140 to 200,  even changing the angle of the gun will alter the reading. This is with Eco off.

I was perplexed as I have seen hundreds of mod's on these with no reported issues.   As I was looking it over I discovered there was a bit of crud in the extension Mr I've owned my own muffler shop for 40 years missed!

Removing the partial blockage dropped my operation temp to  front 78° and rear 79°, this is a 30 degree difference! The exhaust area baffle/vent temp was from 130 to 175. 85° day in the shade. This is in the open, my operating temps in the box are higher, but my baffling is still in the experimental stage.  I also am using a Harvard Freight temp gun, so what could go wrong!  

 

I also notice the added red handled switch/valve on yours, what is that for?

 

[ToyoGuy]

Glad to hear you're making headway, crud or not. The lever is a fuel cutoff between the pump and the carb, so I can switch off the fuel and run the carb dry at the end of the season. When I was deciding between Yamaha and Honda, I liked Yamaha's idea, which had a petcock on it stock, but wanted a Honda because I've had good luck with them and I like to keep the "fleet" all the same flavor. In my researching, I saw enough about Honda genny carburetor replacements / rebuilds due to varnish from forgetting to drain the fuel bowl, to get my undivided attention. I can be a forgetful lad about these things. This way, I know from the position of the valve that I've done my due diligence at the end of the season. Heck,.... I went wild and even did the pressure washer motor that day too. Six bucks each for the valves, WTH, it's cheap entertainment. Shoot, I can't buy a burrito here for that. Cheers,

TG

[jjrbus]

4 hours ago, ToyoGuy said:

Glad to hear you're making headway, crud or not. The lever is a fuel cutoff between the pump and the carb, so I can switch off the fuel and run the carb dry at the end of the season. When I was deciding between Yamaha and Honda, I liked Yamaha's idea, which had a petcock on it stock, but wanted a Honda because I've had good luck with them and I like to keep the "fleet" all the same flavor. In my researching, I saw enough about Honda genny carburetor replacements / rebuilds due to varnish from forgetting to drain the fuel bowl, to get my undivided attention. I can be a forgetful lad about these things. This way, I know from the position of the valve that I've done my due diligence at the end of the season. Heck,.... I went wild and even did the pressure washer motor that day too. Six bucks each for the valves, WTH, it's cheap entertainment. Shoot, I can't buy a burrito here for that. Cheers,

TG

Thanks again!  BEaring in mind I do not use my Honda often, after use I turn it upside down to get as much gas out as possible and then run it dry. Asinine way to do anything. 

Could you post any info on the valve you used?     

[ToyoGuy]

I parsed through a couple of instructional videos, this one gave me most of what I needed and I only changed the fuel-line routing a little to give a bit more slack. I also used clamps on all connections, a clamp this size just ain't that expensive. It all worked out rather nicely:

Here's the petcock I ran down like his:

Enjoy, TG

[jjrbus]

Looks like a shut off is on the bucket list.

For my Weed eater I use the canned mixed with oil, high octaine, ethanol free gas with stabilizer at about $6 a can.  This was an experiment, cheap or expensive weed eaters seem to last me about 2 years before the carbs gum up.  With my current cheap weed eater I am on the 3rd year of no issues using the canned gas!   So it is not paying for itself yet, but the frustration of it not starting or starting to run bad is worth the little extra money.