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Anyone have an ecu for my 86 dolphin??


Shmyers01

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 Hi everybody! I am new to this forum but not new to my RV. I have been renovating it for the past six months. I went to get it smogged and it wouldn't start right. Long story short after two mechanics and my own attempt at fixing (let alone multiple new parts etc) I finally broke down and towed it to Toyota. They also performed multiple tests and discovered the ECU was bad. I was wondering if anybody had one for sale, possibly save myself a few $'s. The part number is 89661 35040 84. 

it seems that $700 from the dealer is way too much for an ancient part...any help?? Much appreciated

Shawn 

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Thanks Derek! I realize these save me a couple hundred but I'm kinda bummed and baffled why this specific ECU costs so much compared to other ones! I may have to buck up and spend more cash than I hoped to

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Your profile says Sacramento. Huge Toyota salvage yards in Rancho Cordova. Pretty sure you could find one that works fine for a fraction of the new prices.

http://www.ranchotoyotatruckparts.com/index.html

http://www.alltoyotatrucksuvparts.com/

Couple of pretty well stocked Pick and Pulls up there too.

Linda S

Oops might be harder than I thought to find. Part is specific for the dual wheel trucks and part number changed mid year on the one. Your part number is used from 8/85 to 8/87.

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18 hours ago, Shmyers01 said:

  I went to get it smogged and it wouldn't start right. ) I finally broke down and towed it to Toyota. They also performed multiple tests and discovered the ECU was bad.

Shawn 

 

Something does not sound right to me.  The EFI system has a default backup mode and if the ECU fails - it should start just fine.  Just have  high emissions and get lousy gas mileage.

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18 hours ago, Shmyers01 said:

it seems that $700 from the dealer is way too much for an ancient part...any help?? Much appreciated

I'm not saying you really need an ECU - but Rock Auto has them for $300.  There are companies all over the country that repair them.  None are really "rebuilt."  Just fixed as needed.  I suspect most of those companies can repair your ECU.  Just a matter of who is most reasonable.  Probably any local parts dealer like NAPA has a place to send them for repair.  Price is a different story.  Rock Auto seems to be the best for price.

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Here is one on Ebay for less then $400.  Still pricey though. This # from Standard Motors is for your rig.  I.e.  HD with auto or manual trans.  RN55L and RN75L. 

Image3.jpg

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1 hour ago, jdemaris said:

Something does not sound right to me.  The EFI system has a default backup mode and if the ECU fails - it should start just fine.  Just have  high emissions and get lousy gas mileage.

Just turns and turns and may start after multiple attempts then stalls and dies. Dealer said they hooked up a new used ECU and it fired up fine (yota tech has his own older yota pickup). I kinda trust them and can at least hold them accountable if ECU doesn't work. Frankly I'm tired of trying new stuff-I don't think there is much I haven't tried like: compression and fuel pressure and pump tests, swapping parts out, new plugs/tune up, fuel filter, upper end rebuild, wires all checked, egr and cold start injector tests, coolant sensor tests, multiple voltage tests, vacuum line tests, battery tests, the list goes on. Toyota did all these and then some. I can't keep track. Just really looking to save a little on the ECU to fully rule it out and hopefully be able to take a trip soon! :))

thanks for for all your input everyone!!

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The 896613504084 is a "4000 lb." computer without the California emissions package.  It is likely many other computers would work but just have extra controls for emissions components that a heavier truck Is exempt from.

896613504084  or the Standard Motors # EM4094 fit the following and maybe more. 

1985-1988

RN55L-KREA3W, RN55L-KTEA3W, RN55L-SREA3W, RN55L-SSRTEA3W

RN75L-KRTEA3W, RN75L-SDTEA3W

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16 minutes ago, Shmyers01 said:

Just turns and turns and may start after multiple attempts then stalls and dies. Dealer said they hooked up a new used ECU and it fired up fine (yota tech has his own older yota pickup). I kinda trust them and can at least hold them accountable if ECU doesn't work. Frankly I'm tired of trying new stuff-I don't think there is much I haven't tried like: compression and fuel pressure and pump tests, swapping parts out, new plugs/tune up, fuel filter, upper end rebuild, wires all checked, egr and cold start injector tests, coolant sensor tests, multiple voltage tests, vacuum line tests, battery tests, the list goes on. Toyota did all these and then some. I can't keep track. Just really looking to save a little on the ECU to fully rule it out and hopefully be able to take a trip soon! :))

thanks for for all your input everyone!!

Yes, I know the feeling and you don't have the luxury of spare components to plug in and try.  If what you've been told is true - then maybe your primary system crapped out long ago and the vehicle was driven in "default" mode for a long time until that crapped out too. If that was the case though, the "check engine" light should of been on. Usually when computers fail - it is caused by something outside the computer that puts too much draw on it and burns up whatever circuit went bad.  If that cause is not fixed, a repaired computer might just fail right over again. All depends on what is going on.  Computers have so many little sub-circuits - many are not fused.  They just fry when too much load is put on them.

 

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48 minutes ago, jdemaris said:

Yes, I know the feeling and you don't have the luxury of spare components to plug in and try.  If what you've been told is true - then maybe your primary system crapped out long ago and the vehicle was driven in "default" mode for a long time until that crapped out too. If that was the case though, the "check engine" light should of been on. Usually when computers fail - it is caused by something outside the computer that puts too much draw on it and burns up whatever circuit went bad.  If that cause is not fixed, a repaired computer might just fail right over again. All depends on what is going on.  Computers have so many little sub-circuits - many are not fused.  They just fry when too much load is put on them.

 

Ugh lol. Fingers crossed! 

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Ok so I found an aftermarket ECU at autopartskart.com for $250 and I get $60 back for a core charge so it will be about $190 with expedited shipping. Return policy is only 20 days so I know that's a gamble compared to the next cheapest at around $350 on eBay and Amazon and up to $550 most other places. Oreillys wants $450 after tax and core return but have 1 year warranty. So I hope the savings is worth it...keep you posted. Thanks again-

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8 minutes ago, Shmyers01 said:

 Oreillys wants $450 after tax and core return but have 1 year warranty. So I hope the savings is worth it...keep you posted. Thanks again-

There is NO warranty if  the computer fails due to a component it is hooked to and that is why computers usually fail. It could fry in ten minutes and not be covered.  I doubt any legitimate seller offers any warranty other then for defects.

From O'Rielly's:   'What is not covered: This warranty does not cover parts that fail as a result of improper installation, misuse, abuse or the failure of another part.  "

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Did you try calling the salvage yards or hitting pick and pull. I checked pick and pull's pricing. 24 dollars including core charge. If there's something else wrong that is blowing out your computer do you really want to spend hundreds.

Linda S

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That wouldn't be a bad idea ... I'll get on it tmrw B):D

i could still return this one I bought if I find a used one...meanwhile The dolphins at yota getting a detent cable and awaiting me to arrive with an ecu

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18 minutes ago, Shmyers01 said:

Called the salvage yard; they don't have it in stock but if they did it would be $300!

3 trucks at my local pick and pull that might have one. I'll check tomorrow. If you want PM me with your phone number or I'll just post here later in the day. Haven't gotten my pick and pull fix lately anyway.

Linda S

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I had no luck. 2 of them were definitely the wrong one and the last one which was hell to get to had the label peeled half off. Couldn't be sure so I passed. Last truck doors didn't open and I had to crawl through the back camper. I should have brought an environmental suit with me. Yuck.

Linda S

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Be careful buying an electronic part more often than not it is final sale they will not take it back because people buy them to use as a test instrument and if it does not fix it they want to send it back. Yes the ECU's do go bad and the vehicle will not run usually it is the injector driver transistors this can be checked with a "noid" light some thing like this, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25143?seid=srese1&gclid=CJfQ-_XQpMsCFcdehgodKt4D3g On the 22RE there is also a resistor block in line with the drivers and the injectors I have seen a couple of them go bad. The ECU's are pretty tough and generally that's the last thing to go bad it is typical to blame the most complex part. A 5 dollar noid light maybe a good investment.

 

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