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We've driven 10,000 miles in the last 3 1/2 months. Today our beloved Toy RV decided not to start while parked on a cliff in Santa Barbara. We were able to roll start it to drive to AutoZone and test the battery. Battery was tested and is fine. Took the starter out and they put it in their testing machine. It works but doesn't sound good according to the AutoZone folks. Replaced the starter. It still won't start. It sounds like it's just about to turn over when I turn the ignition. Seems like we might have an electrical problem. But I haven't been able to chase it down. Any ideas?

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Check to see that the block has a ground wire and that the connections are clean.

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Check the contact surfaces on your battery. The (+) post should have two wires in addition to the main big wire that runs to the starter.

These are thermal fuse wires. One controls your headlights, the other to the ignition system. Check that the contacts are clean and the wires don't look melted.

If your at auto zone already, purchase the "Haynes" manual for your year truck and a 12V tester.

Haynes has a great trouble shooting section that may help you find the problem. It's a good thing to have regardless.

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What exactly do you mean by

It sounds like it's just about to turn over when I turn the ignition.

?

Does the starter actually turn the engine (over)? I've had problems in the past with incorrect descriptions of symptoms.

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What exactly do you mean by ?

Does the starter actually turn the engine (over)? I've had problems in the past with incorrect descriptions of symptoms.

Yes, I suppose it's turning over. It feels and sounds like it's about to start. I don't just hear the ticking of the battery trying to start. I don't know how else to describe it. I don't know if that's considered "turning over".
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Check the contact surfaces on your battery. The (+) post should have two wires in addition to the main big wire that runs to the starter.

These are thermal fuse wires. One controls your headlights, the other to the ignition system. Check that the contacts are clean and the wires don't look melted.

If your at auto zone already, purchase the "Haynes" manual for your year truck and a 12V tester.

Haynes has a great trouble shooting section that may help you find the problem. It's a good thing to have regardless.

Thank you for the tips. I have the Haynes manual. Trying to test the ignition assembly using their troubleshooting guide. I've been unable to unplug the primary leads in order to test with a multimeter. Still trying to wiggle them free
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Yes, I suppose it's turning over. It feels and sounds like it's about to start. I don't just hear the ticking of the battery trying to start. I don't know how else to describe it. I don't know if that's considered "turning over".

"Turning over" means the starter is engaged and is turning the engine - rrrrrrr - but no start. If that's the issue, it's not the starter or the battery. It would then be ignition (spark) or fuel. If it's not turning over, it's either the battery, starter, or a bad connection somewhere, be it a fuse, fusable link, corrosion...

An engine needs four things to run - air, fuel, spark and compression, and they have to happen at the correct time. Shy of the dreaded '83 and newer single row timing chain in a 22R/RE, or a timing belt in a V6, the timing shouldn't be an issue. So you need to check for fuel and spark.

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The engine is a 22r bottom with a 20r top. It is carburated.

We've solved the problem. There is an oil leak which soiled the motor and prevented a good ground connection for the starter. Cleaned it up, added a ground wire from the battery to the starter. Starts right up

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Turn on the headlights. Then try to start it. When it is trying to turn over - see if they get dim. If they DO, then you've got an overall problem with battery power getting to the main electrical system. If they stay bright - then you got either a starter/solenoid problem or a starter-circuit wiring problem.

If you had a $50 electrical load-tester - you could diagnose the problem in 10 minutes. If you know of anyone who has one - just load test battery power AT the main terminal on the starter. If you can read at least 250 amps @ 9 volts or higher - the problem is the starter. If lower - then load test the cables AT the battery. If it load tests above specs there - then some load testing needs to be done in other areas until you find the problem. Very likely just a bad connection somewhere. Very common on 80s-90s GM trucks.

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My VW Rabbit Diesel was a pain to start at -20. The main solution was to run the battery - cable to the starter motor and not to chassis ground. A smaller wire from the engine to chassis ground keep the other things working. The Rabbit starter was a 5hp unit and it drew major current. There was just enough increase in starting rpm to make a difference.

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