mini-wini-dan Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Hi All, It has been a while since I have posted. My mini has been parked and used in NC at my daughter's farm for a home away from home. I will be on the road to California in July for another adventure out west. The leaking rear end is on my 2002 Tacoma and I am trying to deal with this issue while on the road 600 miles from my home in NE PA. The rear has been seeping oil for a couple of years and recently became more pronounced and leaking faster. So I scraped away some rusted flakes and found the source which is now a whole about 1/16 inch in diameter. I opened the plug and drained the rear, sprayed it with degreaser and scraped down the area around the hole with wire brush. I then applied JB Weld epoxy 3 coats that plugged the hole and surrounded the local area with a 3 coat application that thickened the coating while increassing the area of coverage. I am also obtaining a paint on material called POR 15 rust neutralizing paint. I have left it empty and sitting now for about 4 days and and I return to the vehicle this weekend I will coat it again with another coat of JB weld to increase thickness. Later if this seals it I will coat the entire rear pumpkin with the POR 15. My concern is whether it will hold under the heat and possible pressure in the differential. This truck has been extremely reliable and still runs great and I hope to keep it going for a few more years. Any one else had a problem like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 There should be basically zero pressure, assuming that your vent isn't plugged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-wini-dan Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 I shall look for the vent and check it out-thanks Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 You might find this interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-wini-dan Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 Thanks Derek, I checked out the vent today and it was rusted and basically worthless. I have a new one ordered and will install tomorrow. I test drove the truck today and the JB weld patch is holding in the spot I treated. However this axle is like Swiss cheese as I noticed another pin hole seeping up above the fill plug. I wire brushed after hitting the area with degreaser and applied more JB to the new spot. I have owned this truck since feb of 07 and it has been an excellent vehicle aside from the rust issues. Toyota recalled it in 2010 and put a new frame and suspension on this vehicle at no cost to me. They should have included the axle. I may need to look for a used axle if I want to keep this truck going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 I redid an Onan generator where water had laid on top of the oil in the oil pan. The pan had a line of pinhole leaks all the way around it. I cleaned it up and used Por15. Never had a problem after that. JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-wini-dan Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 That is encouraging Jim. After installing the new vent I test drove the vehicle this morning and there were no leaks anywhere. I took it to a car wash where I hit the whole area with degreaser again and then hit it with soap and water and rinse. Later I applied 2 coats of the POR 15 to the entire pumpkin area. Tomorrow I will do a 200 mile trip and we will see how it holds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-wini-dan Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Thanks Jim and Derek, I just did a 200 mile trip and the axle is leak free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milt Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Found the Toyota Part # for the VENT. Without a breather, or if your breather is clogged, the pressure that builds up inside the axle housing will most likely push gear oil past your pinion or axle seals. Edited May 12, 2015 by Milt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibs Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 90930-03031 - Is this the part # for the rear ends for all years? good stuff, thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-wini-dan Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 I just drove 600 miles after fixing the leak and vent. In my case the vent was rusted and completly blocked. The axle has deteriorated to the extent of rust perforation 2 spots discovered. The JB weld plugged the 2 holes and the por 15 coated the entire pumpkin area and it has not leaked a drop since doing this. We will keep an eye on it though and may consider a used axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I just drove 600 miles after fixing the leak and vent. In my case the vent was rusted and completly blocked. The axle has deteriorated to the extent of rust perforation 2 spots discovered. The JB weld plugged the 2 holes and the por 15 coated the entire pumpkin area and it has not leaked a drop since doing this. We will keep an eye on it though and may consider a used axle. I've got one rear axle, two gas tanks, and two oil pans I've done the same with over the years. Never had a leak problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Which of the many JB Weld products did you use successfully? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Which of the many JB Weld products did you use successfully? I'm not a dedicated JB Weld fan. In my opinion, just about any metallic slow-cure epoxy will do the job. That being said, when I buy and use J.B. Weld I only use the metallic version and only the slow-cure (original recipe). When I worked as a heavy equipment mechanic for a John Deere dealership - we did many repairs with Devcon metallic industrial epoxy. Worked great. J.B. Weld seems to be the same basic product - just in a smaller quantity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-wini-dan Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 I used the slow cure type that needs up to 24 hours for a full cure. When mixed it looks grey from black and white putty. I only noticed 2 types where I bought it the slow cure and faster cure version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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