jjrbus Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 93 Seabreeze 3VZ-E 6 cyl auto. I know from records that timing belt was replaced at 60K mi and the vehicle now has 97K on it. I do not know how old the belt is time wise and am a bit concerned about it breaking. Is this the type of engine (interface, non interface) that will be damaged if the belt breaks? I have looked all over the internet and cannot find the info. The Haynes manual does say it is a belt not a chain. I would like to drive this but will prioritze belt change/inspection if it can cause damage. So much to do, so little time JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Non-interference engine. http://www.raauto.com/pages/timing%20belt%20replacement%20guide.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 And I think 60k is the recommended maintenance schedule. So I mean if you break down don't blame me.. make the decision yourself, but it should be fine for another 20k. Do you know what year the belt was replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 When we took ours to the Dealer for mucho work they said the belt "looked good" at 86K miles in 2011. Now have 93 K on her, is it possible for the original belt to go that far??? Am I living on borrowed time here. Only car I do not have maint records for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Thanks!! I Looked all over and could not find that info. I feel much better now : ) No idea when it was changed? only a note in the owners manual that it was changed at 60K. The vehicle has 97K on it now I replaced a 14 year old set of tire that had lots of thread on them, so guessing 60K was a looong time ago. I do not want to comment on dealer saying belt looked ok. First I would go into cardiac arrest if a dealer told me something was not needed. Plus I tend to replace things as per manufacturers suggestions. Might help if you posted year and engine with quires. JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 91 Dolphin 400 94 Aerostar 08 Subaru H6 OutbackI think that on those years the only motor available was the 3L V-6, might be wrong on that, sorry.When we took it to the dealer I told them to do a complete inspection on anything that might fail down the road and call me if it wasn't already on the (long) list. They found a lot that was not on the list, and we had it all done over 6K $ worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 It's definitely possible for the original belt to go that far. You know the suggested service intervals are going to call for replacing it well before there's any chance of it breaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 $6000 ouch! With the 3VZ-E engine being non-interference the belt is not as critical. Non-interference ie, the valves and piston do not occupy the same space. If the belt goes on an interference engine there is a chance of major engine damage. I am new to this, so do not know which engine is in what? Even if told I forget. JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 It will not trash the engine but it will leave you stranded. They are very tough belts I have seen them with well over 100K that however does not mean you should. If it's any consolation they usually break on a restart. The water pump is usually part of the timing belt job also as it is driven by the timing belt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Another 'might as well' is to check the valve clearances. They're both scheduled @ 60k miles and you're going to be opening things up anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 All exhaust shims replaced, at almost 90K there was some clearance left on the shims, but not much, (in's ok), starter, gas filter, all braking system parts except for drums, master cyl, metal lines. Also hoses, belts, shackle bushings, shocks, steering damper, misc front and sway bar bushings, thermostat housing and thermostat, converter, LED lites, 7500K model Maxx Air fan, roof fittings and vents, tires and new stems, wheel simulators, power steering hi pressure hose, after much body repairs striping removed and new paint job, mirrors, much of the RV added electrics re-done, don't even want to guess how many hours and trips involved, but from the outside it looks new to someone who doesn't know RV's.My neighbors think its a new one. One went so far as to remark that they were glad to be rid of "that old eyesore and isn't the new one much nicer".Off the top of my head that's all I remember but there was a lot more, I would have to look up. But the last time I did that I was amazed at what I'd spent.After all this I do not want to be broken down somewhere. Will try to find someplace to just replace the belt and be done with it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Hope I do not spend that much! I will be hiring some work and doing some myself. From what I have been reading, some are suggesting replacing water pump while replacing belt. Remember I am new so not 100% sure on that. Hopefully others will chime in. I have a timing belt of unknown age so I am going to replace it and anything else that looks questionable. JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Another 'might as well' is to check the valve clearances. They're both scheduled @ 60k miles and you're going to be opening things up anyway. I tried the "like this" button, but said I had used my quota? JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 It always says that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Uhaul would replace the timing belt and water pump at 90K intervals. On the yotatech site, many guys go 150K miles or more on their trucks. I changed out my 4Runner belts at 200K and then 140K later. My camper, I changed it out since I didn't know what the previous owner had done to it. The kit that I bought on ebay for about $100 came with OEM belt, water pump, seals and pulley. It took me about 16 hours due to my lack of experience to put the belt and pump in. Since the belt is coming off the cams, it would be a good time to get the valves adjusted. You can probably negotiate with the mechanic on getting the belt, valves, water pump in one job since the hardest part is to get all the stuff off the front of the engine is common to all three jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 just did my timing belt - 93 warrior - v6. 89k miles. When I bought it , there was 42k on odometer. Opened it up and belt looked good so I am guessing a previous owner changed it on time. both idlers were slightly noisy, I bought the gates240 kit ($100) from rockauto - did not like the waterpump so I ordered an aisin ($40) a toy dealer bills about 5-6 hours labor. it is a big job, but not any harder than any other timing belt - have to pull radiator and a lot of stuff to get in there. When I saw how good my belt was I almost put it back together. But when I got it apart one idler was noisy and had a slight wobble so I am glad I went in. Do replace the water pump while you are in there. I also changed the belts & hoses. I had to order the v shaped oil cooler/ coolant hose from the toy dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Yeah, replacing just about anything you have easy access to while you're in there is always a good idea. Especially if you're doing it yourself. Parts are cheap, mostly. Labor and break-downs aren't. Just like with older Subarus. To get to the timing belts you have to take all sorts of stuff off, like the water and oil pump, just to get the timing cover off. So if you do the belts, you do the oil and water pump, no question. It's a lot of work getting in there, and the parts are pretty cheap, and all sorts of other reasons why not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdfrost64 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 the worst part about Toyota v6 at least the 2003 is the crankshaft bolt they lock tight. I changed mine in about 3 hours .and you don't have to take out radiator, just the fan and shroud. and you have to have a real small spreader to spread belt dampener. A machinist I know made the tools for me to do timing belts in Toyota v6 engines. Cuts the time in half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 I didn't take the radiator either but I did bend a few fins when a tool slipped. On the nut on the main pulley, brace a breaker bar against the fender wall, detach coil, turn the starter key for a couple of revolutions. Works surprisingly well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 someone mentioned doing the valves while doing timing.. The TB requires the front of the engine to be dismantled. Valve Adjustment requires the top of the engine to come apart. i have heard different opinions - from if it is running good and no clicking, let it be ---------to-------- every 60K not sure what to make of it. my engine is at 90k and running good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 As things wear in the V6, valve clearances tend to get smaller/tighter, so there isn't the tell-tail valve 'clatter' to warn you. They'll actually get quieter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 As things wear in the V6, valve clearances tend to get smaller/tighter, so there isn't the tell-tail valve 'clatter' to warn you. They'll actually get quieter. Now that is interesting, a mechanic told me my valves sounded like they needed adjustment? As things get tighter that would burn the valves?? Jim SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 The valve job involves swapping shims underneath the cam shafts. If the cam shafts are off, much easier to do. To get the cam shafts off, you have to remove the timing belt. If your engine is making good power, then valve adjustment is not needed. If your power is declining, do a compression test to see if a valve is not closing. Then do the valve job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 What I have been told is that by the time you notice performance loss the exhaust valve/valves are already starting to burn. So much cheaper to replace the shims early. When I had ours done all the intakes were fine, in the middle of the clearance range, all the exhausts were real low, some down to just a few thousands of an inch. This was at 89K miles, a friend had a Toyota car with a V-6 at similar miles and it developed a "burble at idle" as he said, and a mechanic told him what it was so he donated the car as wasn't willing to spend that kind of money on an old car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 I have been kicking this around and reading about it. I am doing some things "just because its apart" Replacing the timing belt and water pump is at the edge of my skill level and the valves I should leave to an experienced mechanic. My motor seems to run ok and appears to have plenty of power. But I can do a compression check to make sure! Thanks for mentioning that. Jim SW FL 93 Sea Breeze V6 auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.