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I'm thinking of buying a brand new rear full floating rear axle, with brakes and cables,good price $500 bucks.

Do I need to match gear ratio to front? being my rig is a 4x4 manual trans?

I've never swapped an axle before, anything I need to be aware of before I buy it? I have 15" wheels but I'm guessing you could fit any size wheels as long as the bolt pattern fits, right?

If I get it the plan would be to sell my existing one.

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I would bet your ratio is 4.10 look in the engine compartment for the tag. Your looking for G 29 . See here

http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

Almost all of the full float axles will be the same and yes they must match to front. You will need custom wheels to match your 15 inchers

Linda S

Bolt pattern on the full floater will be 6x7.25. No standard wheels will fit but there is at least one place I know of that will make 15 inch duallies. Also another member is having custom single wheels made at Stockton wheel.

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Mine says G292R 151F

Looks like mine is 4.10. BUT that website info states many 86-87 stock 22re turbos we're miss labeled! As 2 pin My last number 2 is probably wrong and I bet mine is a 4 pin. I'll have to count the number of fins on each side of my diff to be sure.

I have 15" rims all around with 6 lug, but interestingly my lug diameter in front is not the same as the rear.

Is there a stamp on the axle I want to buy (it's not in a vehicle)I should look for to give diff and gearing?

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All factory turbo's should have the 4 fin housing. Have you ever run your vin to check and see if it's factory? Only full floats that don't have the 4.10 gears are a few 90's ones that came installed with the 5 speed trannie. They will be 4.30 but still some 5 speeds have the 4.10.

Linda S

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Mine says G292R 151F

Looks like mine is 4.10. BUT that website info states many 86-87 stock 22re turbos we're miss labeled! As 2 pin My last number 2 is probably wrong and I bet mine is a 4 pin. I'll have to count the number of fins on each side of my diff to be sure.

I have 15" rims all around with 6 lug, but interestingly my lug diameter in front is not the same as the rear.

Is there a stamp on the axle I want to buy (it's not in a vehicle)I should look for to give diff and gearing?

All you have to do is jack one wheel off the ground. Put trans or transfercase in neutral. Turn the wheel on full turn and calculate how much the driveshaft turned. If the driveshaft turns 2 full turns when the wheel turns 1, you've got a 4.1 to 1 axle ratio. If the driveshaft turns 2.1 turns - then you've got a 4.3 to 1 axle ratio. Note that if you jack up on wheel and it will NOT turn free - then you might have a posi or locking rear. In that case - you just jack up both wheels and do the same test. If both rear wheels turn together - a 4.1 to 1 ratio will have the driveshaft turn 4.1 turns to every 1 turn of the wheels (both turning together). Just as a 4.3 to 1 ratio will have the driveshaft turn 4.3 turns to every 1 turn of the wheels (both turning together).

An ideal setup with any 4WD is to have the front wheels turning slightly faster then the rear, but having them turn exactly the same is close enough. So yes you have to match either with ratios, tire-sizes, or a combo of both.

Full floating axles for Toyota Cab & Chassis trucks came in 3.9 to 1 ratio (mostly for standard trans setups) and 4.1 to 1 ratio for automatics. Wheel bolt pattern is the same as used on many USA trucks in the 40s-50. Wheels used on US Fords, IHs, Dodges, etc. are common for 16" tires instead of 14" like the Toyotas.

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It's new so it means it's one of the axles Toyota shipped for the recall. We did a kind of survey on the Toyota campers site a while back and almost everyone had 4.10. Only a couple had 4.30. I would be willing to bet all the replacement axles Toyota shipped were the 4.10 cause it was by far the most common axle. Maybe 90% of the ones on the road. I have never seen a true dually with the 3.9 axle. The guy has the axle easy to access. Ask him to do the turn thing that JD mentioned. Easy to do on an axle with nothing attached to it.

Linda S

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Wonder if it's the same setup as all the other Toyota rear axles...? If so, although this adds one more layer of complication, you can always throw a gear set with 4.10s in there. Not sure if the dually setup had a stronger, different style differential gear, though.

If not, swapping out gears is really easy, and a lot of 4x4 guys have a set of 4.10s laying around that they'd sell you for the cost of shipping. At least that was my experience...

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Wonder if it's the same setup as all the other Toyota rear axles...? If so, although this adds one more layer of complication, you can always throw a gear set with 4.10s in there. Not sure if the dually setup had a stronger, different style differential gear, though.

If not, swapping out gears is really easy, and a lot of 4x4 guys have a set of 4.10s laying around that they'd sell you for the cost of shipping. At least that was my experience...

No Differential is exactly the same as other V6 Toyota's and Turbo Toyota's. All the replacement axles were from the 90's cause that's when the recall happened.

Linda S

Yes you can swap the gears but I bet you won't need to

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The axle ratio can usually be determined from the paint code on the flange of the third member.

If untouched, yes. If someone changed the gears, no. The only sure way to tell is just rotate the pinion flange and count how many turns the wheel hubs make.

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The paint tab is on the actual third member/differential carrier. Whether the member has been changed or not wouldn't affect that. Unless someone had a gear shop actually swap out the ring gear, which is pretty rare outside of the rockcrawler scene.

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The paint tab is on the actual third member/differential carrier. Whether the member has been changed or not wouldn't affect that. Unless someone had a gear shop actually swap out the ring gear, which is pretty rare outside of the rockcrawler scene.

You're talking about the Hotchkiss center section, correct? I've installed different gears in many and I don't do any rock-crawling nor do I have a gear-shop. All is needed is a press and some Prussian Blue gear-tooth-marking-compound. A little tube of Prussain Blue is usually included when you buy a new ring & pinion set.

Many people with general mechanical expertise have done gear changes (just the gears) without sending to a shop.

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My point is that I think it's very unlikely someone would go to the trouble of swapping out any of the common Toyota gear ratios when it's so much easier to just acquire a different third member. I've bought and sold many of them and 4.10's and 4.30's are very common.

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My point is that I think it's very unlikely someone would go to the trouble of swapping out any of the common Toyota gear ratios when it's so much easier to just acquire a different third member. I've bought and sold many of them and 4.10's and 4.30's are very common.

What you're saying works when someone lives in an area where mini-trucks are popular and so are various gear ratios. I know that when I wanted a 5.29 set of gears, I could find nothing in the northeast when it came to a fully assembled center-section or even just a good used sets of gears. Besides - I would not trust a used complete Hotchkiss section anyway unless I had some way of knowing the condition of everything inside of it. At least when you pull apart your own, you know if it had any bearing noises or howls. Also - many of the gear sets that off-road people use are "factory seconds" and not suitable to use in motorhome that travels at highway speeds. Even when I bought my new gears - I had my choice of "highway worthy" gears or a much cheaper set for "off roaders."

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