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This disscussion actually started in Topic: valve seal replacement. I thought i'd start new topic since this was so far removed from valve seals.Here's whats goin on. I have an 86' camper with a 22re and auto trans. It has been hard starting since i got it a few months ago. It also seemed to idle to high. I decided to pull throttle body to clean and inspect. After removing i determined that the throttle position sensor (TPS) was bad and that someone had "adjusted" the throttle stop screw. I have installed new TPS,returned stop screw to original position and put throttle body back on, with new gasket. I believe the engine might be at the point it was when someone "adjusted" the stop screw. This is whats happening now.

Motor starts easier ,with fewer turns of the key, but is still is a little slugish and requires a few pats on the accellerator to give it a boost.

Idle is noticeably lower and i believe it even kicked down a bit once engine warmed.I didnt mention before but the plug on the on the idle mixture screw is gone.So there is a possibility that it has also been tampered with.

One problem that was happening before has gotten worse. Before, whenever i would shift into gear the motor would almost die and would die if engine was'nt warm enough.Now it will cut off if i dont ride the brake and give it gas at the same time, even warmed up.

I was able to take it for a short ride around the block and it seemed to shift a little easier and motor seemed to pickup well with good trottle response. The engine cutoff when shifting is little bit of a bummer but i do feel that im headed in the right direction to get motor tuned and reliable.I will recheck TPS alignment and probably do some manual reading while i wait for suggestions from some of you experienced folks. Thanks.

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Hello,

I am taking a guess here, but it sounds like you might have a cracked or loose vacuum line.

When you got the engine to idle at a lower rpms, you also reduced the vacuum. Vacuum line

is pretty cheap and if yours are original, they are 21 years old. It may be hard to find a

cracked vacuum line, you may want to replace all that you can see and see if that helps.

Hope this helps,

Dennis...

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On an 22RE there is no idle mix screw. Its all done by the computer and EFI.

Have you ever checked to see if there are any trouble codes stored in the computer???

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Howdy Lost.

A quick way to check for vacuum leaks is with the engine running and all equipement in place, spray aerosal ( sp?) carb cleaner around all the hoses and fittings. If there is a vacuum leak, the engine will speed up and smooth out.Just don't spray the whole thing at once. Spray a small area, see the results, then move on.

Ps. I know your too smart to do THIS ... Don't spray the exhaust manifold...

Things sometimes go a large type " WOOF" !

Eyebrows go away.. don't make me embarrse myself by telling you how I know this..

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Thanks for the replies. The weathers been a little wet so i have'nt done much since posting this topic. I did run the motor a little while yesterday.

It is still somewhat sluggish starting but still easier than before. The idle is a little inconsistent. What i mean by inconsistent is that while idleing it will be kind of smooth and then then begin to decrease and get rough and it even cut off once. It started back up easy enough and with some throttle coaxing ran okay.

To answer some questions:

I did do a vacum leak check before pulling throttle body. I used a small propane torch, not lit, because i read it was an alternative to carb cleaner. Thanks for the heads up Shoprat, and the good LAUGH. I will use the carb cleaner this time cause im sure its more flamable and would detect smaller leak easier than propane.

Besides another vacum check i plan on giving the EGR a look. Lew, besides giving the EGR a few raps, is it possible to pull it for a cleaning?

WME. Sorry if my terminology was incorrect.What i refered to as an idle mixture screw could also be called the bypass screw, but it does exist and according to Bentley manual it is factory set but can be used if need be to get the idle set. This should only be done after determining all other EFI components are functioning properly. And to answer your question, i have'nt checked for fault codes but do plan on it during this troubleshoot.

I'll update as soon as i can. Thanks again.

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Have you cleaned the the TB and all the little air bleed holes. It makes a big difference.

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I forgot to ask this earlier.When i put camper into gear and the motor dies, is this directly related to the low rough idle problem or will i have to look somewhere else once EFI is functioning properly? I've read that some of these transmissions dont have any tie to engine vacum. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

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