lostinbama2x

Thanks moose, i'll give them a call. Bama.

Hello all, While working on replacing the leaf spring bushings on my 86' winnebago, ive discovered that the lug nuts on the left side rear duals are left handed threads. This discovery came at the cost of one broken stud and boogered up threads on the rest of the nuts. I have managed to remove the broken stud. These studs do not install from the inside of the brake drum as most do. they pass through the front of what looks like an adapter mounted to the face of the drum. The stud has threads on the backside so that once its inserted into the hole, a nut and washer secure it to the adapter. I believe this is a replacement axle fitted after the recall on the early inferior axles. Does anyone know of a parts supplier that might carry left handed nuts and studs for these axles. The guys at NAPA are still scratching thier heads. Searching this forum i found where one person got the nuts from Toyota for $10 a piece (ouch). Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Bama.

Hey pager, See got right to the job. Looks good. Have you taken it for a test run yet? Ive started work on mine. Did your bushing kit come with 8 small and 4 larger bushings? Mine did. I dont think that its correct, because the larger bushings dont fit anywhere. The kit also came with 2 sleeves that dont seem to fit anywhere. The heavy shackles i got from Downey fit well and i think should really help with stability. Will try to post pics when im done. Im headed to the parts store now to see if i can get 4 of the smaller bushings. Later,Bama.

Hello all, Starting on leaf spring bushing replacement today. I want to pull the rear wheels to check brakes and access springs easier. Lugs are on super tight. I took it to a local tire shop. They could not get driver side lugs to move. One broke off. After examining broke lug, it seems it is reverse threads. The passenger side is normal thread. Is this common on these? Thanks, Bama.

Hey pager, Man, i dig your enthusiasum. You dont hesitate to tackle a job. My stuff came from Downey today. I will try to get a start on it tommorow. Working the dreaded midnights slows things a bit. Im off this weekend and weather permitting i can hopefully get this knocked out. Still need to decide on shocks. I will try to post pics of the Downey parts and the install process. Later, Bama.

Bushings are on the way from Downey. I also ordered the 1.5" shackles. I got to thinking after the order that if i use the longer shackles that i will need longer shocks. I see that someone said they used Rancho 5000's. I believe that Ranchos have longer travel, from 0" to 2" of lift. Has anyone else used longer shackles to gain rear clearance? I have also looked at some RV helper springs that are rated 2000lbs and am considering those. I am not trying to increase payload as much as i want to level rig and stiffen the ride. Any thoughts are appreciated. thanks

Checked out downey. Looks good. Im gonna go ahead and order from them. I have a question about where to place my jack stands when begining this job. Forward of the leaf spring seems like it would be to much. Im using large 5 ton stands. Rear of the spring there is only a short section of stock frame before a frame extension added by the coach builder, and this extension doesnt look like it could support the weight. Anyone whose done any rear axle work, i would appreciate your input. Thanks, bama.

Hey pager, Looking at your bushings id say they need replacing. Installing poly bushings should'nt be a big hassel because they come in 2 pieces. Removing the old ones could be a pain , unless their really chewed up ,because the stock rubber is pressed into the spring eye hole. Thats why installing factory style rubber is tough cause its gotta be pressed in. The poly ones just slip in on either side of the eye. The poly bushings also come with a bolt that allows you to grease the bushings. Im talking like ive done this. I havent. Ive got an old IH scout that i bought new poly bushings and shackles for and have looked at how to do it but havent got around to it. Its on my ever growing to do list. If my take on this installation process is way off, please someone, correct my thinking,

Hello all, Its been a few months since ive posted, or even worked on my rig for that matter. But the the holidays have passed and we are coming into some good shade tree mechanic weather, so its time to focus and get back on track. To bring everyone up to speed on my rig, its an 86' winnebago itasca, 22re, 4spd auto. Since i bought it last summer most of the work ive done has been concentrated on the motor, troubleshooting efi, exaust leaks, etc. Its not running tip top, and there are a few more things that id like to address under the hood, but i do feel its more reliable than when i bought it and i would feel safe taking it out a little ways. With all that said ill move on to the topic at hand, leaf spring bushings. My leaf spring bushing are shot. The rubber is hanging out of the leaf spring eyes which leaves the bolt to carry alot of stress. I would not feel comfortable loading people or cargo in the RV as the added weight might cause the bolt to break. What i want to do to correct this is install poly bushing. I will also install new shocks at the same time and add leaf assists as i see PAGER has done on his rig. Also possibly a beefer shackle. I found a set of shackles online that are 1.5" lift with a heavy center support. All of this jabbering leads up to my real question. How do i order the correct bushings? That is to say, are the leaf springs on these motorhomes stock toyota? All of the listings for poly bushings ive found online seem to cover all of the pickup models ,2wd, 4wd, DX, etc, etc. Is there anyway to know for sure?, like spring eye diameter or something. I look forward to hearing from anyone who knows or has some good ideas. Thanks in advance.

Hello all. I just wanted to get some ideas on what gauges would be the best to add.I know im going to add a transmission temp gauge. I like the 3 gauge pillar set up i've read about on here, so i need some suggestion to fill the other 2 holes. Im running an 86' 22re with 4spd auto. Look forward to hearing ideas. Thanks.

Thanks for the replys. Have'nt had an oppurtunity to work on camper last couple of days. I did pull and clean the EGR before starting this post. It still sticks. Might pull it again and try the Berrymans though. I need to replace the valve cover gasket. Could a bad valve cover gasket cause a vacum leak? Thanks.Bama.

Hello all. I'd like to get some ideas on where to start trouble shooting this problem. I have been learning and tuning my 86' 22re , 4spd auto, since i got it a few months back. I have made progress and feel the engine is starting to function more as it should. The problem that im facing now is that when i shift from park into reverse or drive the engine will stall out if i dont hold the brake and give it gas. It would do this when i first got the rig, but not as often because someone had the throttle stop screw adjsted and it was idling high. This idle increase may have been done to compensate for this problem or one of the other problems ive been working on. The engine is idling closer to where it should now so the stall problem is constant. I am going to replace the EGR because it wont seat without a little tapping. I dont know if EGR replacment will help this problem or is even related but it is needed and is where i ended trouble shooting fuel system. From what little i've read these transmissions dont have any vacum relation to the motor ,so i dont think any undetected vacum leaks could cause this problem. If any of you good folks have run into something similar help me out. Thanks in advance. Bama.

Doug. Hate to hear about your manifold woes. I think that any working mechanic "willing" to jump right on an exhaust manifold job for a vehicle thats pushing 20 years old is either clueless or hungry. Your mechanic may be neither. I think there may be a few differences in your manifold job compared to the manifold replacements i've read about here. First off, your talking about a V6. you've got 2 exhaust manifolds, left and right. Us four bangers just got one manifold. Next is just a guess, but, if the engine bay on your 91' is near the size of my 86', i bet its a pretty tight fit reaching either manifold.The thought of slipped wrenches while in a contorted skin removing position is enough to make most mechanics think twice. One likeness between the 2 is the fact that your manifold and the 4cly manifold both use threaded studs inserted into the head and the manifold is held on with nuts. The aggrivation comes in during removal. After years of heating, cooling,and moisture, the nuts form a bond with the studs. When reverse torque is applied the result can be a broken stud. When that stud breaks it opens up a whole new can of worms. That stud has to be removed and replaced in order for your manifold seal properly. This removal and installation of studs can send some mechanics, shad tree or professional, into panic attacks. Pre soaking the nuts in some sort of "liquid wrench" is probably the best place to start. Find a mechanic that will tell you all this up front and is still willing to do the work and you may have your man.Dont be surprised if the price is a little steep though. This problem is not just specific to Toyota its true for lots of vehicles. Hope all this helps. Bama.

I like the idea of the larger filter. What different oil weights are some of you guys using? And, to stay on topic here, 3 1/2 half quarts does sound off. I have'nt had my camper long, but am ready to do first oil change. My guess would have been 4+quarts .

I forgot to ask this earlier.When i put camper into gear and the motor dies, is this directly related to the low rough idle problem or will i have to look somewhere else once EFI is functioning properly? I've read that some of these transmissions dont have any tie to engine vacum. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the replies. The weathers been a little wet so i have'nt done much since posting this topic. I did run the motor a little while yesterday. It is still somewhat sluggish starting but still easier than before. The idle is a little inconsistent. What i mean by inconsistent is that while idleing it will be kind of smooth and then then begin to decrease and get rough and it even cut off once. It started back up easy enough and with some throttle coaxing ran okay. To answer some questions: I did do a vacum leak check before pulling throttle body. I used a small propane torch, not lit, because i read it was an alternative to carb cleaner. Thanks for the heads up Shoprat, and the good LAUGH. I will use the carb cleaner this time cause im sure its more flamable and would detect smaller leak easier than propane. Besides another vacum check i plan on giving the EGR a look. Lew, besides giving the EGR a few raps, is it possible to pull it for a cleaning? WME. Sorry if my terminology was incorrect.What i refered to as an idle mixture screw could also be called the bypass screw, but it does exist and according to Bentley manual it is factory set but can be used if need be to get the idle set. This should only be done after determining all other EFI components are functioning properly. And to answer your question, i have'nt checked for fault codes but do plan on it during this troubleshoot. I'll update as soon as i can. Thanks again.

This disscussion actually started in Topic: valve seal replacement. I thought i'd start new topic since this was so far removed from valve seals.Here's whats goin on. I have an 86' camper with a 22re and auto trans. It has been hard starting since i got it a few months ago. It also seemed to idle to high. I decided to pull throttle body to clean and inspect. After removing i determined that the throttle position sensor (TPS) was bad and that someone had "adjusted" the throttle stop screw. I have installed new TPS,returned stop screw to original position and put throttle body back on, with new gasket. I believe the engine might be at the point it was when someone "adjusted" the stop screw. This is whats happening now. Motor starts easier ,with fewer turns of the key, but is still is a little slugish and requires a few pats on the accellerator to give it a boost. Idle is noticeably lower and i believe it even kicked down a bit once engine warmed.I didnt mention before but the plug on the on the idle mixture screw is gone.So there is a possibility that it has also been tampered with. One problem that was happening before has gotten worse. Before, whenever i would shift into gear the motor would almost die and would die if engine was'nt warm enough.Now it will cut off if i dont ride the brake and give it gas at the same time, even warmed up. I was able to take it for a short ride around the block and it seemed to shift a little easier and motor seemed to pickup well with good trottle response. The engine cutoff when shifting is little bit of a bummer but i do feel that im headed in the right direction to get motor tuned and reliable.I will recheck TPS alignment and probably do some manual reading while i wait for suggestions from some of you experienced folks. Thanks.

Took camper for about 50 miles yesterday. On the hiway at 50 to 60 motor performs well. After returning home warm motor still a little slow starting. decided to take a look at throttle body today. removed cleaned and tested throttle position sensor.If im testing properly it seems resistance values are lower than stated in service book (Bently manual).Also, it looks as if someone has adjusted throttle stop screw. I figure this may have been done to compensate for failing TPS or some other worn component ive yet to find.Will have someone double check TPS before i invest the $80 for a new one. Lew, to answer your questions. no it doesnt smooth out after a minute. Pulled plugs and they as well as the wires look to be new. After i get TPS figured out and throttle body installed i figure i'll take a look at cold start injector and fuel regulator.I also want to do the compression test. Ive seen the kits to do compression test in parts store. Dont know much about it. Is it a difficult procedure? Thanks, Bama.

Thanks for the replys. Good to hear from some experienced folks. I would never have thought that valve seal replacement could be so involved. Im used to older american vehicles. Sorry for not giving a little more vehicle info on this post. My camper is a 1986 22re. Yes, the miss is reving engine off idle with no load. After reading some thoughts here i think my next best move might be a compression check. Also, what would one consider to be a bit of smoke, or how long will it smoke before clearing up? I think today i will just get in the rig and drive it a while as i have not done much driving since i got it. Thanks.

Hello all. I just wanted to get some feedback on this topic from anyone who might have done this or had it done before. Heres my thinking behind wanting to replace the valve seals. When my camper sits for a few days and i start it up im getting some oil smoke for the first couple of minutes and then it clears up. If i drive it regularly for a few days i dont see the smoke. There is'nt any smoke while driving, even when motor is pulling hard and im not seeing a drop in oil level , so i dont believe its a ring or blow by problem. I did also notice oil residue on the two rear exhaust ports while changing the manifold. I have been doing some reading and from what i understand a leaking valve seal can cause a loss in compression. This loss in compression will make the engine difficult to start,- mine is hard to start when cold. This leak in what is supposed to be a closed system will also cause misfire during accelleration, -mine has an obvious miss and shake to the motor when reving from idle. I understand that my symptoms can come from any number of other causes but with the oil burning i figured i would put the valve seals at the top of my list.I will also replace valve cover gaskets and of course have valves adjusted at the same time. If anyone has had there seals replaced and noticed changes in engine performance i would like to hear about it. Thanks.

Hey pager, Glad to hear back from you. What i mean by the flange is the flat piece of metal with the 2 bolt holes. When the sensor is inserted the flange should mount flush to the manifold. My sensor does not mount flush. The end of the sensor that goes into the hole is bigger than the hole and wont allow the flange to touch the manifold.I plan on checking another parts house for a possible different sensor. I didnt get a check engine lignt when i replaced it i just did it as part of initial tune up.

Hello to all who have been following this post. Well, i finally got the new manifold on and it doesnt seem to be leaking. It did however make some other exhaust noises more evident.One noise is a kind of pinging that i feel is coming from the empty catalytic hull. Its kind of like the sound of a dirt bike with an expansion chamber. Anyone else had something similar? After moving my hand across the muffler it seems it has some small holes developing. I plan on replacing all of the exhaust with, free flowing cat, muffler, and larger pipe later. I'll have to live with exhaust noise until then. I do have one concern about the manifold though. After starting reassembly i found that the oxygen sensor flange did not mount flush with the manifold. I found that the sensor was to big around to fit into the hole. I checked it on the old manifold and it didnt fit that hole either. I put that sensor on the truck when i first bought it and never noticed it was'nt seated properly.It is a Bosch sensor. I even took the old manifold to the parts store to check the part # and fit and its the same sensor. The flange will screw off so I used a large washer for a spacer to get the flange mounted flush and seal any leaks. My biggest fear with this is that the sensor may not be far enough into the exhaust stream and therefore not be sending the correct signal. If anyone has run into this i would like to hear what you did to correct the problem. Im guessing that another sensor manufacturer is going to be the remedy. I would like to get this resolved because my next step to roadworthiness is trouble shooting hard starting, high idle, and a miss when reving engine (but thats another post). Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Pager. sent you info on my camper in your messages.

Pager, glad to hear your up and going. Thanks for posting the pics and all the tips on what to look for. Got my yota up on ramps and thats as far as i've gotten. Got next week off so im gonna hit it hard starting friday and should have some free time to chase down any needed parts. Did you replace the 2 round gaskets between the manifold and header pipe? If so, were they readily avalible at the parts store. No dealer close to me. thanks again.

Manifold arrived yesterday! Looks pretty good. nice to have heat sheild back on. Will get yota up on ramps today and try to get started. Start midnight shift tonight so i'll try to do a little the next few days. Tried to attach pictures. No luck. sorry.