Beasley Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Has anyone had a exhaust header leak? (3.0 V6) My passenger side exhaust header has a leak, I can't find any write ups on a DIY gasket repair. I know there are studs that can break or strip. The work area is so cramped, I just took it to a exhaust shop and he recommended that I not attempt to fix it due to the huge can of worms I could get into with snapped studs. If anyone has any experience with this let me know, I would like to get it fixed. I got the impression it must be very hard to get to even with the Toyo on a lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I replaced my driver side gasket last December. Long and cumbersome job but nothing to be intimidated by. There are some pictures of the job on the yahoo site under Skydancer's Warrior folder. The key to doing the replacement is to jack up the vehicle by the frame and remove the wheel. One third of the work is done through the fender wall gap to access the bottom row of studs. I used really long socket extensions. Another third is underneath for the down pipe (not necessary for the passenger side). The remaining third is working above through the open hood. For the passenger side, you will have to disconnect the crossover pipe. Pull the carbon cannister out. Use self-ratcheting wrenches, three nuts. I put in a new manifold because Uhaul on ebay had them cheaply priced, $55. The new one looked so pretty in comparison to the old one. I bought a pair of exhaust gaskets for $40 from an online store. Several of my studs were melded to the nut but the entire stud came out. The studs coming out is a blessing because it makes removal and installation much easier. Toyota dealerships are unlikely to stock these studs and I had to special order them. (I tried four different dealerships and found a couple in stock). Order the crossover pipe gasket as well. The studs from Autozone do not look nearly as well-made as the Toyota. Toyota studs are about $1 a piece and the nuts were $.60. The block thread is easy to strip out. Don't tighten too tightly or better yet, use a torque wrench. Fortunately, the thread goes deep into the block and some of the studs are long enough to go deeper. The heat shield has smaller studs and you may need to order a few as well. These seem to be the same studs as the center wheel studs. Lots of light helps. I put a shoplight over the area I worked as most of the time, it was during the evening in winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beasley Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Thanks, I didn't know about the yahoo site. Appreciate all the info. Do you think it would be possible to leave the crossover pipe connected and just slip old gasket out and new gasket in? There is some exhaust gas parts to deal with on passenger side too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Link to Yahoo toyota-campers site. You have to join to see pics https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/toyota-campers/info Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 The studs on the manifold go through the gasket. The manifold has to come out to get the gasket out. There are six studs on the manifold/gasket and three on the crossover pipe. The three nuts on the driver side of the crossover pipe will need to be loosened to allow the pipe to move off the end of the passenger side manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyboxII Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Hi -- don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but this is a nightmare of a job! Mine took two mechanics to finally correct the problem. Total cost was around $1000. with me supplying the parts from Toyota. Many broken exhaust studs later, it was fixed. Couldn't believe how much dismantling was necessary to get to the problem. First "mechanic" took it apart and gave up. Had it towed to a second shop as a basket case and they were successful at putting it together. Tried to ignore it, but it also resulted in several burnt valves which is another horror story. Can't believe that Toyota would build such a difficult engine to work on! Good luck with yours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Well, I'm not a mechanic (just an electrical engineer and retired Navy officer) and have never done a manifold job before this one but I was able to get through it with satisfactory results. Some things that may have helped were to start spraying penetrating oil on all the nuts and studs for a couple of days, work an hour or two every day (to avoid frustration and keep the job fun), dry fit the parts (the new heat shield/gasket has to be cut and folded on one end to clear the dip stick - for the driver side version), have plenty of light. My mistake was not to order studs and nuts in advance, thinking that Toyota dealers would have them in stock. They do have a nice computer system that shows all the states where the other dealers do not have the parts in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beasley Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 Wow, you guys have scared me. I think I will wait until my 75K mile service and kill two birds with one stone. Like the penetrating oil for a few days prior to working on it idea. I would think a torch would be a good idea too. Snapping a stud would be a nightmare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 In the mean time start tracking down a top flight independent shop that specializes in Toyota repairs. Call around, look at them and talk to the owners. I would avoid dealer service shops like the plague. This one here sounds good. Lots of great reviews. http://www.yelp.com/biz/precision-performance-las-vegas Ask about cost. You might find a place you like with really good prices. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beasley Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Thanks, I bookmarked that repair shop. I'm starting to learn a lot of these bolts and fasteners are pretty stubborn. I'm having a hard time getting the differential drain and fill bolts out right now. Got to get a 6 point socket, the 12 point is rounding corners. I think it is a 25mm..... Geeez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 None of the bolts snapped on me nor did they seem likely to do so. The head is aluminum and the threads in the bolt holes are more likely to strip. I was about to use a helicoil kit but I found the threads go much deeper than the stripped area. About half the studs backed out as they were melded to the nuts. Concerned at first, I found this to be blessing in disguise as the removal of the manifold from the downpipe and crossover pipe was much easier. Your job is likely to be easier than mine because the downpipe was a pain to gain access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsobigkahuna Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I took mine to a good shop that specializes in exhaust stuff. Both sides were leaking. While in there I had them replace everything. I sourced the parts to save a bit of $. New studs and nuts right from toyota. New gaskets, and one new manifold. Only one side is still available new, the other side I found at a toyota dismantler in Oregon ( I think). I took the used manifold to a machine shop and had it planed. It was a HUGE job. I'm pretty sure if I went back with another one, they'd send me away. On the upside the truck is dead quiet now, really nice. They did a great job. What causes these manifold / gasket issues? Overheating? Pushing too hard? The mechanic seemed to think the exhaust was too small and needed better flow. Kahuna in Kanada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 The cause is probably many cycles of thermal expansion and contraction. After awhile, a small leak develops and then the corrosive elements in the exhaust continue the process. The Uhaul ebay site was my source for a new exhaust manifold, about $55. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsobigkahuna Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I believe that the passenger side was easy to find new. It's the drivers side that was NLA. I plan on keeping this rig, I sure hope I'm done with this repair. Kahuna Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Is the socket that's rounding the points of the nut/bolt double broached, (also called undercut I think??) If putting large pressure, get this kind for sure. I think Snap-on invented this but the patents have run out and almost everyong makes them like this now, but I have seen many that are not. Did some searching and found out the "double broach" refers to 12 points, the 6 point sockets/wrenches are called "single broach". The 1/2" drive 6 point socket I got for the wheel lugs is cut out a lot, good me thinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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