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My '83 22R has an exhaust leak at the manifold. Since I would have to take everything off to change the gasket I was planning to install a header from ebay.

Is this a simple swap?

What do I do with the tube that runs over the manifold or any of the other emissions equipment?

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m43.l1123/7?euid=910df763ded7478e9e303cd3efb9f5c6&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D360876907672%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AX%3ARTQ%3AMOTORS%3A1123

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Check out the yotatech desmog tutorial if you're going to get into that stuff.

That looks like a pretty cheap manifold, but that doesn't mean it won't work well for you necessarily.

I'm going to be a downer and predict: you have at least one stripped exhaust manifold stud. Going to be doing some helicoil work to the head...

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My '83 22R has an exhaust leak at the manifold. Since I would have to take everything off to change the gasket I was planning to install a header from ebay.

I wouldn't do it - but to each his own. Stock Toyota exhaust manifold is pretty well designed and not highly restrictive. Aftermarket headers - generally speaking - are often one BIG pain in the rear. They rust out, they warp and spit out gaskets, they throw off MUCH more heat then cast-iron, etc. Throwing off heat inside the engine bay is not a good thing. I've never had an after-market header on a Toyota. I've had them on many other engines and they all were problems. I still have my Blackjack "lifetime" headers on my 1969 Dodge Power-Wagon. They've rotted out three times and I'm on the 4th set since 1979. Gaskets are constantly blowing out. Same for my 65 Chevelle SS 327 until I took off the headers and put cast-iron manifolds back on to it.

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I agree, the Stock Toyota system is very good. Some of the after market stuff is of questionable quality.

The under hood temps are almost as important as any power increase.

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After some more research it looks like my tube is a 20r style and it's called an air injection manifold. Someone already removed my smog pump so my plan is to just remove the AIM and plug off the hose where in joins to the PAIR valve.

Will this cause any problems?

Can't wait to totally desmog this engine and add a good carb.

post-7831-0-98802900-1405955306_thumb.jp

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I hear what you are saying about headers... I added a good set to my '67 Camaro and haven't looked back. Just not sure it is worth the trouble to invest in a good header. I do have a major exhaust leak so the manifold has got to come off. Could this leak be a part of the partial desmog?

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I hear what you are saying about headers... I added a good set to my '67 Camaro and haven't looked back. Just not sure it is worth the trouble to invest in a good header. I do have a major exhaust leak so the manifold has got to come off. Could this leak be a part of the partial desmog?

I've had many big block and small block Chevy engines with headers. All blew gaskets. Also had a lot of heat problems - especially with the starter motors. Steel gaskets instead of header gaskets helps. NEVER going to do it with my 2.4 Toyota. Chevys tended to have very restrictive cast-iron manifolds (unless you've got a 302 Z-28). So headers are temping. The Toyota stock manifold already looks like a cast-iron header. Kind of like what Ford used on those rare 271 horse, 289 cube high-performance Mustang engines with the solid lifters.

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If the leak is at the exhaust manifold it's either because the gasket is ready for replacement, the manifold is warped or cracked, or the bolts are loose due to stripping out of the head. Or a combination of all those things...

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If the leak is at the exhaust manifold it's either because the gasket is ready for replacement, the manifold is warped or cracked, or the bolts are loose due to stripping out of the head. Or a combination of all those things...

I recently fixed my 88 with the 22RE. It had all three problems and almost a fourth.. A leaking gasket will, over time, warp the manifold and also eat gouges in the head where the gasket mating surface is.

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I ended up pulling a washer hose off of my Camaro... Put one end in my ear and listed around the manifold. It was leaking where the emissions tube bolts up on the top of the manifold (early 22r style). Gaskets looked good so a few bangs of a hammer to flatten out the hold down bracket and it is tight with no leaks.

Questions: My engine has the smog pump removed by a previous owner... Do I need the little tube that goes from the manifold heat shield up to the snorkel end of the air cleaner? Is this part of my choke system or the emissions system? Mine is cracked so was planning to leave it off.

One day I will do a good long tune header and desmog it fully.

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Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that tube is part of the egr system. So it depends. If the rest of the egr system is blocked off or removed, the worst that's happening is that some exhaust gases that were meant to be injected back into the intake are just venting out into your engine compartment. Which isn't a good thing...but I don't think it's screwing up your engine performance. Just your lungs and brain :)

But more than likely your egr is totally plugged up with carbon anyway, and no exhaust is making it there. I couldn't feel anything coming out of that larger diameter tube, down below the carb, off towards the engine when my truck was running. But I capped it off anyway, just in case.

If that's the wrong way to go about it, then we're both about to learn something! But with the little bit of knowledge I have, it seemed like the smog pump connected to that pipe in order to help pump exhaust from the exhaust manifold over to the intake. So if the smog pump is gone...then it's just sitting there doing nothing and there aren't any leaks.

But I really don't know for sure...

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The smog pump is designed to pump AIR into the exhaust to start an afterburn and burn up all the nasties in the exhaust.

The EGR on a Toyota 20/22r is built in to the rear of the head.

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About the header / manifold topic...........I would pull the manifold, take it to a machine shop or engine builder that has a flat belt sander & take out any warp..reinstall the STOCK IRON manifold if it is not cracked, using a Good gasket, never seize all the bolts & nuts...throw away the heat retaining shield and move on......Unless you live in VERY COLD country ........then you may want the warm up shield, then again if you are thinking a "header" you are not concerned about engine warm up...........just my opinion............Donnie

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I don't even have a smog pump to be driven by the belt... someone removed it at some point so the entire system is now useless. I'll take it all off eventually when I get a new weber and a long tube header. If I remove the tube then I have two holes in the manifold. I got it to seal up... If I didn't I would have just tapped the holes and installed a plug. No manifold gasket leak. Yeah!

Planning to install the following part numbers from www.lceperformance.com: 1041033 (header), 1030026 (carb kit), and 1016038 (block of plates).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Vincevs21,

Regarding your header, you might want to consider a TriY header instead of a 4-1 header. From Doug Thorley's downloaded catalog:

"The Tri-Y design yields maximum power from idle to 4500 RPM, while adhering to strict emissions standards. Engineered to be well-suited for Trucks, Tow-Rigs, and RV’s, power significantly increases in mid-range RPM’s, making this style exceptionally efficient at highway speeds. Fuel economy and low-end torque increase dramatically with the Tri-Y systems while reduced backpressure, lower engine heat and lessened weight are all added benefits of this design."

Here is some information I posted previously (#3, will lead to a picture of the TriY installed on our 85):

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2956&hl=header#entry14900

Your 83 also uses a one wire oxygen sensor, so you might have the same richness issue at idle (not for smog reasons in your case, but for gas mileage).

Have fun!

Regards,

Allen

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