notsobigkahuna Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 I just installed a used roof air unit in my 86 Slumber Queen. The camper was not built with a/c. I've cobbled together a temporary electrical connection. I'm thinking i might wire the roof air with its own dedicated plug. How hard is it to fish wires in the walls? Any ideas? Kahuna in Kanada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredNewell Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Don't know what rig you have, but I'm thinking there's a good chance there's wiring from the factory. Did you install the ac in the same hole the factory would have? Any chance the wires were capped and tucked away? Just thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsobigkahuna Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 That's what i was hoping, the opening was solid wood, no wires. I was thinking i'd wire in a 30 amp plug just for the a/c, ice station zebra! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 There is most likely a blank plate inside of a cabinet and a short piece of EMT that goes to the frame work in the 14X14 opening. Check your breaker panel for an extra #12 wire or a 20 amp breaker if there is a 30 it's the main. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Most Slumber Queens were made for the rental market in Canada. Very likely there is no wiring for AC. You might need to install a new breaker in your converter panel to even wire it up. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdfrost64 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 also check your center roof vent if you have one. alot rv factorys use a roof vent when not called for a roof air . but the still run the wiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsobigkahuna Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Do i need a breaker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdfrost64 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 if the wire is tucked next to your center vent frame .then all you have to do is take out vent and replace with ac and hook up ac.30 minute job. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Do i need a breaker? Look at your electrical panel. Are there two 110 volt circuit breakers or only one. The AC will have a dedicated circuit just for that. The other one is for your inside 110 electric plugs. If there is only one breaker then it was probably never wired for AC and you need to install a breaker for it. There should be an empty spot available to do this but the rest of the wiring is up to you to figure out how to run it to the location. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 I just installed a used roof air unit in my 86 Slumber Queen. The camper was not built with a/c. I've cobbled together a temporary electrical connection. I'm thinking i might wire the roof air with its own dedicated plug. How hard is it to fish wires in the walls? Any ideas? Kahuna in Kanada If there is no factory wiring and the walls are foam - you can just run the new wire on the surface of the ceiling. Many RVs got wired that way from the factory. Just use a surface-mount protective channel for the new cable. Available at any electrical store, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. I'd be more concerned about the lead-cord attached to your RV. I'd check it and find out what size wire it has. It might not have large enough wire to power a discrete AC circuit along with all the rest in the RV at the same time. That built-on cable (assuming you have one) - needs to be sized to power all the AC circuits in your RV simultaneously. 15 amp circuit minimum for just the AC and another 15 amp circuit for the rest (at least). That's 30 amps. An RV 30 amp power cord 25 feet long is supposed to be made from 10/3 copper cable. If a 50 amp cord - it's supposed to be 6 gauge cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsobigkahuna Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 There is only one 110 breaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 If it is a 3 pin large cord cap that will not fit in a standard socket it is a 30 amp cord. The A/C wiring is a #12 wire and requires a 20 amp breaker. If there is only one breaker you probably will need to jumper the two large lugs in the panel box that the black wire is attached to or stagger the breaker (can't be right next to the other one) so that it is on the same pins in the box or it won't work. The RV box is a sub panel you have to be sure your white wire is connected to the insulated lugs along with the other white wire and the ground wire is connected with the other grounds they can not be mixed unlike a house panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 There is only one 110 breaker. You need to look closely at your power-cord. Somewhere on the outside it's likely to be marked to indicate what wire size is used. I've seen Toyota RVs come OEM with 14 gauge (14/3 ST). 12 gauge (12/3 ST), and 10 gauge (10/3 ST) cables. If you want to power everything in your RV with the one cord - you need at least a 3-wire, 10 gauge cord. In regard to your AC unit itself - much depends on what you have. A 6000 - 7100 BTU unit will work on a 15 amp circuit. A 13,500 BTU unit will need a 20 amp circuit. If you want to add a second AC circuit you can either add a 2nd breaker - or take out the single breaker you have now and just replace it with a duplex breaker. Many I've seen in older RVs have Bryant BR type breakers. A new breaker to replace it will be a Cutler Hammer Eaton type BR. Note - you can't safely stick in two breakers that can draw a total of 30-35 amps without having the proper 10 gauge power cord. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 If it has a molded 30 amp cord cap on it it is a #10 wire.The A/C wiring in the RV uses #12 because they will power all of the A/C units not just the little ones. 80% of the people with A/C units have no ideal how big it is. A duplex breaker will work, two standard breakers will not if the box is not jumpered it is a 240 volt 60 amp box every other stab in breaker is on a different pole two will not be powered with out the jumper one will work the one right next to it will not. It is normal to have a 15 and a 20 amp breaker in RV's it is common practice and meets code if it is exceeded the campground 30 amp will trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Many RVs I've seen with 30 amp lead-cords have multiple branch circuits. My Winnebago Phasar came new with a 30 amp, 10 gauge cord and 50 amps worth of branch breakers with three separate circuits. If someone was attempting to follow NEC - it gets very complicated. It's mainly about what gets used, when, and how much. RVs are often wired with the 80% factor. I.e. continuous loads do not exceed 80% of the circuit breaker ratings. An RV with a 30 amp cord, a 15 amp circuit or outlets, 15 amp; for the converter, and 20 amps for the AC will usually do fine. That because the outlets sometimes have nothing in use, the converter often only draws 3-4 amps, and the AC if on is only drawing 8-11 amps (running continously, not starting). In ref to the 30 amp breaker at a campsite outlet -it takes a lot more to trip it then 30 amps. A typical 30 amp breaker is rated to carry 60 amps for 2 full minutes before tripping. They are made that way to handle high surge currents when motors start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsobigkahuna Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 I went to 2 rv shops today. One told me to look on the internet, the other didn't seem interested at all in the job. Getting at the current breaker is a nasty job. Can i just put the a/c on its own circuit? Maybe with it's own dedicated plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 I went to 2 rv shops today. One told me to look on the internet, the other didn't seem interested at all in the job. Getting at the current breaker is a nasty job. Can i just put the a/c on its own circuit? Maybe with it's own dedicated plug. You could I suppose just toss the cord out the window. it's your motor home what ever works for you most camp grounds have both a 30 and a 20 on each post plug the 30 in and the extension into the 20 try to use at least a #12 cord. Check the local phone book there are a lot of independent RV repair people back yard type of guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Many RVs I've seen with 30 amp lead-cords have multiple branch circuits. My Winnebago Phasar came new with a 30 amp, 10 gauge cord and 50 amps worth of branch breakers with three separate circuits. If someone was attempting to follow NEC - it gets very complicated. It's mainly about what gets used, when, and how much. RVs are often wired with the 80% factor. I.e. continuous loads do not exceed 80% of the circuit breaker ratings. An RV with a 30 amp cord, a 15 amp circuit or outlets, 15 amp; for the converter, and 20 amps for the AC will usually do fine. That because the outlets sometimes have nothing in use, the converter often only draws 3-4 amps, and the AC if on is only drawing 8-11 amps (running continously, not starting). In ref to the 30 amp breaker at a campsite outlet -it takes a lot more to trip it then 30 amps. A typical 30 amp breaker is rated to carry 60 amps for 2 full minutes before tripping. They are made that way to handle high surge currents when motors start. Yeah I hear you but once it leaves the shop all bets are off with duplex breakers you have 8 possibilities if you can get all that wire in that little box but I don't think things would last long at 120 amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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