zephyrgreen Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) Hello! So we picked up our rig last year in august and have been full timing it for about five months now. the solar system has been giving us problems from the beginning and we recently switched out the monitor, but the panels still aren't charging the deep cycle battery. it stays at about 11.74v, based on a plug-in reader. I will include a picture of the monitor soon, but it was recommended by the folks at ML Solar down in Campbell, CA who mostly do house panels. We couldn't figure out the rating of the two panels on our roof, but the controller is rated at 20 amps and it was only $20 so I went with it. Ideally, the plan is to hook up the cabin battery to the relay that exists under the hood, so that the alternator will charge the cabin battery when driving. However, when we are docked, we would appreciate it if we could get the panels to function as they should. I believe that there is either a passive leak/drain somewhere OR the panels, which seem to be wired in serial, are wired incorrectly. The monitor shows a charge coming in from the panels -- again, I will post a pic of the monitor soon. The previous owner seems to have wired the cabin battery to the cabin lights and into a 12V outlet, and bypassed the AC converter and breaker -- so none of the outlets function. Has anyone successfully installed solar panels to charge their deep cycle marine battery in conjunction with the alternator relay? Anyone have experience with this model of breaker/converter that I've posted below? Thanks for all your input! Cheers! 1984 Toyota Dolphin Edited March 9, 2014 by zephyrgreen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 STOP The pictures you sent have NOTHING to do with solar!!!!! you should have a solar panel (s), a solar controller and battery. That's all you need, no relay required. Some more pictures of the rest of the components please. Lets get this fixed fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I think I see what you are trying to do. It would not hurt to add a switch to the solar control system to avoid back feeding the solar controller. The rest of your system should be left as it was originally with an isolator and the charger/converter. I would say that the solar controller is probably protected but I do not know that for fact if the manufacture OKs it then there is no need for a switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 It would be simpler to just put a 100 amp diode between the battery and the controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 It would be simpler to just put a 100 amp diode between the battery and the controller. That would keep it from back feeding but the controller needs to see battery voltage in order to control the charge rate. I really don't think it would be an issue but I would ask first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Oops for got about regulation. I have a Sunwise MPPT controller and Ive run it for 3 years directly wired to the battery. I have a 200w panel setup, with a 20 amp controller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albus Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Hi, My first input to this forum! I am researching solar power for a dolphin and came across this website, which seems, even only part way into it, required reading for anyone using batteries in an RV: http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/ Happy reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Good article lots of info if you are a full time camper with lot of room for the extra gear it can be done (for a price). For a weekender it really isn't worth it. Cut the power demands leave the house hold goods home and go camping! When you get home plug your MH in let your new modern charger that you installed recharge the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GavinRecker Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 (edited) Hello! So we picked up our rig last year in august and have been full timing it for about five months now. the solar system has been giving us problems from the beginning and we recently switched out the monitor, but the panels still aren't charging the deep cycle battery. it stays at about 11.74v, based on a plug-in reader. I will include a picture of the monitor soon, but it was recommended by the folks at ML solar kits down in Campbell, CA who mostly do house panels. We couldn't figure out the rating of the two panels on our roof, but the controller is rated at 20 amps and it was only $20 so I went with it. Ideally, the plan is to hook up the cabin battery to the relay that exists under the hood, so that the alternator will charge the cabin battery when driving. However, when we are docked, we would appreciate it if we could get the panels to function as they should. I believe that there is either a passive leak/drain somewhere OR the panels, which seem to be wired in serial, are wired incorrectly. The monitor shows a charge coming in from the panels -- again, I will post a pic of the monitor soon. The previous owner seems to have wired the cabin battery to the cabin lights and into a 12V outlet, and bypassed the AC converter and breaker -- so none of the outlets function. Has anyone successfully installed solar panels to charge their deep cycle marine battery in conjunction with the alternator relay? Anyone have experience with this model of breaker/converter that I've posted below? Thanks for all your input! Cheers! 1984 Toyota Dolphin OK so were you able to solve out the queries related to solar panels? I am looking to get similar charging system so is it really effective? Edited April 2, 2014 by GavinRecker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 How big are the batteries? If the panels are in series the controller will need to deal with about 45 volts from the panels and give you 12 out. If you are using a lot of current from a big battery bank you may not be able to charge them in a day with the panels. There is no reason you can't charge your coach battery with the truck as long as the isolator is working. The outlets will not work unless you are plugged in to some thing 120 volts camp ground or generator. The lights should work from the converter when you are plugged in and it should charge the battery. If it's the converter/charger that came with the camper it is a lousy battery charger but an OK converter. It's all about supply and demand if the demand is low solar will work for you but the roof is not big enough to deal with microwaves, toasters and coffee makers neither is one battery unless it's a really big one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Has anyone done a wind turbine setup yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odyssey 4x4 Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Has anyone done a wind turbine setup yet? I saw this done on a VW vanagon as well as solar, it was a pretty neat setup and that turbine was hauling even with barely any wind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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