ChrisInVT Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 So the other day, while moving my box truck, one of my rear brake lines blew. While attempting to replace the line, I snapped the bleeder screws of both rear wheel cylinders. I ordered new rear cylinders, but I've been completely unable to remove the axle shafts to pull the drums. Does anyone have any tips on doing this? It looks like they've been beaten on in the past to get removed, and even a few bolts were cross-threaded and one was almost completely stripped (I f'n love U-Haul repairs).So I downloaded the rear axle service manual, and it looks like I'm going to need some special tools to do this? My local Toyota dealer is a good hour and a half drive, so the last thing I want to do is drive all the way there to get some of the parts/tools that I need.I don't even think the "service bolts" can be used on the axle shaft because they've been beaten with a hammer to the point where the holes aren't even round anymore. Anyone have any DIY advice? I put it up on the lift a couple days ago, spent about 20 minutes trying to remove the rear axle shafts, and then just gave up and crimped the rear brake lines so they would stop leaking everywhere (the master cyl went dry so lucky me I get to re-bleed everything). I'm not really planning on replacing the shoes, seals or repacking the bearings unless they're in dire need of maintenance, as the truck has been driven less than 3,000 miles since I purchased it back in 2009 (and hasn't been registered or driven in the past two years either). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Got the cones removed?? The Ive had to use single edge razor blade as wedges to move the axle enough to use a proper pry bar to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunnynshare Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 You don't need any special tools. I would run a tap down those two removal holes if needed. Here is how I got the cone washers out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePjqBuJ_a5k&feature=youtu.be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Thanks for the tip on using the air hammer. I am going to try getting my seals replaced this spring before vacation time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisInVT Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 I was unable to get the cones removed, they wouldn't budge at all! I was going to tap on the side of the axle shaft with my air hammer, but after messing around with it I just pulled the truck outside and decided I'd work on it over the weekend when I had more time. I may tap the holes for some bolts that I do have, because even using the special bolt the threads and hole are ruined. I'll probably pull it back into the shop tomorrow or Sunday to attempt to get this done. I think I'm going to put some anti-seize on those damn cone washers while I'm at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 I used a BFH and a socket. Make sure the socket is larger than the cone or the nut. Leave the nut on the stud, place the socket over the stud and cone and smack it, make sure you hit the end of the axle and not the cone. A couple of hits and the cone will pop out. Do it 5 more times and then the axle will come out easily. You CAN NOT pull the axle with any of the cones in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 I have used the socket and hammer method a few times and it works, sometimes I got one that requires a couple harder hits. Dennis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisInVT Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 I cleared my schedule for this weekend to tear into this thing. I might end up repacking the bearings anyway and at least making sure the seals seem OK. If not, then I'll save that project for some other day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 wet down the cones with lots of wd40 or equivalent. using a hammer strike the SIDE of the axle cap - if you sit right in front of the axle wear eye protection - they can come off like a missile - they bounced off my chest. there have been a number of threads on this forum about this subject. I have done the job twice. parts are readily available. The manual section in PDF is available on this forum. you will also see lengthy debates about why there are 2 seals for each side - and the bearings are greased with wheel bearing grease NOT rear end oil. I fall into the camp of doing things like toyota did - some are absolutely convinced one can leave the inner seals out & the rear end oil will do just fine. (NOT ME). you do not need punches, pliers are air tools. a hammer & wd40 will do it. a good overnight soaking might help too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 leaving the nuts on the studs but backed way off should help control the cones - I did not bother, but it is a good idea. I did not use the 2 bolts as recommended in maint manual - (one turn) but that should help too. Duelly_Rear_End_Overhaul.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisInVT Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 So I got this finished over the weekend. What a huge pain in the behind for a busted brake line, sheesh.So I repacked the bearings because the grease was black, and almost water thin so it really needed it. Replaced the inner grease seals only because I had to remove them with a prybar. The new grease seals have an updated design which I thought was interesting. The drums were OK, but the shoes had about 1/8" of material remaining and had heat stress cracks. I'll put that on my "to-replace" list, along with the front pads if/when I start driving the truck again. The air hammer worked the best for removing the cone washers, as a quick tap popped them out.All my brake fluid was BLACK, and the bleeder valves were rusted from the inside out. I actually had to remove them, redrill the holes and attack them with a wire brush. Mind you the bleeder valves on the rear wheel cylinders snapped off, which is why I ended up having to replace the cylinders completely. I was very lucky to be able to free the bleeder valve on the proportional valve and the front calipers! I need to change the fluid to the rear end, now that I'm thinking about it I completely forgot to do that even though I planned on it. I can just imagine how bad that is after looking at the rear bearings.U-Haul "service" did not do this poor truck well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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