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It figures that I replace all of my tires and now I have a slow leak in my driver side rear wheel (left lug threads). I haven't had much luck tracking down a replacement from previous posts and my own search. Anybody have any recommendations on where to look?

Thanks!

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It figures that I replace all of my tires and now I have a slow leak in my driver side rear wheel (left lug threads). I haven't had much luck tracking down a replacement from previous posts and my own search. Anybody have any recommendations on where to look?

Thanks!

Have you checked under water to verify it's the wheel to blame? I see many new tires go flat due to the valve leaking where it bolts or presses in, or rim leaks, etc.

A leaking rim would be rare - but if so - why not fix it or just stick in a radial tube?

If you really want to buy another wheel . .

$70 at in California - dually 6 lug from a 1988 619-233-3884 / 800-827-1970

$60 in Massachusetts - dually 6 lug from a 1987 1-800-992-0441

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Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah, the compressor was just to get down into Medford from camping. I took it to two different tire shops and they both gave it a bath to check the leak. A guy had an ad on local Craigslist a couple weeks ago, but it expired and I can't track him down.

I just didn't know if 86 was an oddball year from reading other posts or not. I'm a newbie.

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I had a motorcycle with a wheel that had a very slow leak. I put SLIME in it and rode the bike for another 50,000 miles, including 5 new tires on that wheel. I tipped my mechanic for having to deal with that stuff during tire changes. I told him about it before he started so that he knew there would be a mess to deal with. I also cleaned up the Slime that spilled on his shop floor.

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The wheel is an odd ball but you can use a newer toyota dually if you put it on the inside. Otherwise you have to replace left had studs with right hand to fit different lug nuts properly. How did they not find the leak? my guess would be the valve stem. Tire installers might have damaged it or got it loose somehow

Linda S

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The leak is right in the middle of the wheel according to the shops. I think maybe I should have them show it to me while its wet and have them check the stem as well. Doesn't make sense that it would just start leaking after new tires even though I've driven it 500+ miles since.

Slime is a good idea if all else fails.

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I tried to fill my tire with same jumperbox...

found out the hard way.....tried a gas station pump with not much luck

now I just go to a tire store..

(the jumperbox will play my Sirius radio for 4 days using it most of the day..)

Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah, the compressor was just to get down into Medford from camping.

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Those little compressors will pump up your RV tire. They just take a long time. The size of the tire does not matter to the compressor. 60 psi is 60 psi. I use a portable power pack w/compressor to start cars and pump up tires where I work. I have pumped up many high pressure tires. The first 35 psi goes pretty quickly and then it gets sloooow.

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A pin-hole in a wheel can be easily fixed (but rare). Also quite easy to put a radial tire tube in there if wanted.

Pin-hole can be welded, brazed, etc. Or just drill the hold and stick a self-tapping screw in with some sealant.

I haven't done it myself but have been informed by several people that with all the years - the wheels interchange, regardless of LH or RH threads. Makes sense to me. Why would it make and difference? Diffefrent taper seat in the lug holes? If there IS - someone post what the actual issue is. The Toyota duallies use an old USA bolt pattern that many old Dodge and Studebaker trucks used to have. It's just the 14" rim size that's odd, not the 7.25" X 6 wheel pattern.

My 69 Dodge Power-Wagon had LH threads. I just knocked them out an installed RH studs and nuts. Made no difference with the wheels. Originals were split-rim and I later stuck on some one-piece rims from a later model Ford.

I mount all my own tires when home. Last summer when in northern Michigan - I got a shard of scrap steel in my tire. Took it to the "best" tire shop in Alpena (Ball Tire). I even drew a circle around the hole in the tire and told them I wanted an inside patch only. Well - this "simple" repair resulted in three trips back to them. First one - the guy got lazy and stuck a plug in from the outside and it leaked. 2nd trip he stuck an inside pactch in as I originally requested. He missed the hole by 6:". The 3rd trip he put the patch in the correct spot and replaced the valve . Now the valve leaked where it presses in (not from the air-passage part). After some angry discussion, I got my money back, went back to my place and fixed it myself with no tire machine. Used the blade on my bulldozer to break the bead. Note that the tire shop was 45 miles from my place. I drove over 200 miles with this fiasco. And what really ticked me off? The tire shop had a big "dip tank" for checking their work but never used it.

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I haven't done it myself but have been informed by several people that with all the years - the wheels interchange, regardless of LH or RH threads. Makes sense to me. Why would it make and difference? Diffefrent taper seat in the lug holes?

JD

Yup one of them has cone shaped lug nut that seat into the wheel and the other just has flat nuts. Mine is an 86 with the 6 hand hole wheel that is different from all the rest but I can't remember which it is , flat or cone. Haven't looked at it lately

Linda S

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I haven't done it myself but have been informed by several people that with all the years - the wheels interchange, regardless of LH or RH threads. Makes sense to me. Why would it make and difference? Diffefrent taper seat in the lug holes?

JD

Yup one of them has cone shaped lug nut that seat into the wheel and the other just has flat nuts. Mine is an 86 with the 6 hand hole wheel that is different from all the rest but I can't remember which it is , flat or cone. Haven't looked at it lately

Linda S

If that's the case - it would be easy to just cut new angled seats into the wheel lug-bores to match the new lug nuts. Certainly would not require getting an entire new wheel. A very easy thing to do if needed.

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I've seen people post saying they have a problem with their LH threaded studs. Often recommended is to replace them all with RH threaded studs and matching nuts. I don't recall anyone recommending replacing the rims and nuts on the other side. Seems you'd end up with some mish mash of 3 different nuts!

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Well I just checked and mine are flat so the more available wheels have the tapered holes. you would have to find left hand nuts with the cone shape to seat in the wheels, none out there that I could find, or replace all the studs to right hand and buy the correct lugs for those wheels. Yes Derek would be quite a mish mash but the only problem with LH nuts is stupid tire guys who don't listen to you and break them

Linda

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Be the first on your block to put some International Harvester or Dodge Power Wagon wheels on your Toyota RV?

Budd wheels (like Toyota FFuse) often are convertible. Come with a taper cut for taper nuts and if using flat-face nuts - they work as-is.

Can't say on the wheels Toyota used made by Topy of Japan. If not taper is there, just put one there.

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Well I just checked and mine are flat so the more available wheels have the tapered holes. you would have to find left hand nuts with the cone shape to seat in the wheels, none out there that I could find, or replace all the studs to right hand and buy the correct lugs for those wheels. Yes Derek would be quite a mish mash but the only problem with LH nuts is stupid tire guys who don't listen to you and break them

Linda

Can you still find the correct size nuts, either LH thread or RH thread, that are flat?

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Hopefully, if someone buys those 17" rims for their Toyota, they check that there's enough room in their fenders to clear the smallest 17" tire available.

There are Dodge rims around with the same bolt pattern in 16". There are many 16", 17", and 20" tires that are the same diameter and circumference as the 185R-14C tires used on Toyota RVs. 225/55ZR16", 205/50ZR17", 245/45ZR17", 225/30ZR20", etc. Not that I'm looking to put Ford/Dodge/IH/Studebaker rims on my Toyota - but it certainly can be done. Probably a bolt-one swap. The military in south Korea also uses that size on their Korean equivalent of the Humvee.

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Like I said before - not something I'm looking to do. Plenty of stock dually 6 X 7.25" 14"Topy wheels around cheap. I feel no need to "reinvent the wheel." The trend with most new vehicles seems to be big wheels and hardly any tire. I used to see 20" wheels on big-rigs only. Now dinky little cars have 20" wheels with rubber bands for tires. Hey -seems we're going backwards. My 1918 Ford Model T has something similar. My T has 24" rims and tires that might work on a bicycle. But hey . . it only goes around 35 MPH top speed (no Ruckstell in the rear). Good thing -since it has NO wheel brakes. Henry Ford left them out. Only weighs around 1200 lbs.

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