1982 Toyota Mini-Cruiser for $2895 in Wisconsin?

[holyghostfire]

I was wondering if this is a good deal for this small of a motorhome. Should I try to get one from the South if I don't want to deal with rust issues or is rust concern that big of deal? http://madison.craigslist.org/rvs/3866906643.html

[MontanaChinook]

It's a legitimate concern, but until you look at it and see if there's rust, you won't know. Could be rust free.

That's a very reasonable price if everything is in working order and not rotted/rusted.

[zero]

I was wondering if this is a good deal for this small of a motorhome. Should I try to get one from the South if I don't want to deal with rust issues or is rust concern that big of deal? http://madison.craigslist.org/rvs/3866906643.html

Looks like it might be a very good deal. But yes, rust is a HUGE concern. Luckily, many if not most RVs don't get driven in winters (in rust belts) OR on summer roads coated with salt in parts of NY or MI. You can fix water damage and rot. You can also fix anything mechanical. But if a Toyota has a lot of rust there IS no fix. The popular rumour about Japanese vehicles built in the 70s and 80s was that the sheet metal had rust already "built into it" when it left the factory. That due to their lack of virgin steel resources. True or not I don't know but they certainly fall apart something awful. A Toyota driven where I live in the winter usually can't hardly last 10 years. That includes the new ones also.

[zero]

Here's a photo of what's left of the rear frame on a 1991 Toyota pickup that was driven winters here in NY.

[tlava]

RE rust: make sure to check UNDER the carpets in the cab--you'll have to remove the jambs, but the screws are probably rusted anyway--get a look at the actual floorboards: common problem in older Toys--hood ari intakes rot out internally, water runs down inside firewall, under carpet, and rots the boards from inside out. No fix for rotted air vents, that I know of--anyone have a solution for this? Drill drain holes, fiberglass the boards, and wear boots...

[holyghostfire]

Should I forget getting this Rv If it does not have the 6 axle floating axle upgrade? I talked to the owner about the rear axle and he didn't know what I was talking about so I told him to remove the hub cap and take a picture of it. Thanks for your advice about the rust issue. I will really take this into consideration.

[linda s]

If you don't mind a pop top this one was posted yesterday and is beautiful.

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/rvs/3868974159.html

Driving it should be just like driving a truck.

Linda S

[holyghostfire]

I would consider a pop-up one, but I need to use the camper in colder weather.

[zero]

I would consider a pop-up one, but I need to use the camper in colder weather.

We've camped many times in our RV with a pop-up roof and 20 degree F temps outside. We kept warm with a 12K BTU RV (input) furnace no problem. I'm sure we used more propane that if we had hard walls instead of canvas - but it still worked fine. To the converse -you're apt to get save money on fuel with the lesser wind resistance of a pop-up roof.

[holyghostfire]

I am actually selling my house and going to live in a camper full-time so a pop-up one is not an option. Thanks for all your input.

[linda s]

For full timing I wouldn't consider anything less than a 21 footer and plan on spendng a little more.Your going to need everything to be in tip top shape.

Linda S

[zero]

I am actually selling my house and going to live in a camper full-time so a pop-up one is not an option. Thanks for all your input.

Yes ,that makes a huge difference. I've met a few people that bought special RVs made for winter-camping that can keep the plumbing working in severe cold. They cost a small fortune. One was a Lance slide-on 11.5 foot truck camper that sold for $32,000. That is just the camper - no truck included.

[holyghostfire]

It is just going to me and my 16 lb Maltese dog. My plan is not to use the plumbing in the winter time since I won't be able to hookup since campgrounds are closed in the winter time. The only plumbing will be the toilet where I will use antifreeze in the holding tank.

To insulate the camper, I will use foam board and a small insulated door to close off the dinette and sleeping area for winter use. I know this sounds real primitive, but I don't really need much.

I don't want to invest alot in a camper, because it will see salt in the winter which will destroy any camper fast. My only concern is making sure to have a 6 bolt axle on the rear. It seems there are too many horror stories with the 5 bolt axle.

[Bob C]

That MH looks pretty small. Check the weight and you may find that even an axle with single wheels on the back would be adequate. If you need another opinion, I only live 40 miles north of Madison in Baraboo. I would be willing to look at it with you.