holyghostfire

Where do I find the gasket for the toilet on the black water tank? Also I noticed that at the connection points on the tank for the 1 1/2 ABS pipe it is not ABS. They used another glue than the ABS glue because it ain't black. Do you know what type of glue I should use to connect the pipe to the tank? Thanks, Kevin

There is no way to use a tank in vertical position. There is no where it will fit in my Sunrader. It looks like I will have to purchase a horzontial tank with a bracket holder. It seems some places will refill without taking the tank out and other places will refill with the tank in.

You find out something new everyday. Well I feel stupid now, but am grateful for your advice! Will amerigas refill this tank? They told me they won't refill 20lb tanks, but this seems to be a specialize tank so they would have to.

Here are some pictures of the holding container. It is out of the Sunrader since I had floor rot underneath.

I have a one tank holder in the back of my Sunrader. Is there anyway to secure it? Also a two stage regulator won't fit inside the small box. Does everyone just use a one stage regulator?

They are sure asking alot for this imported motorhome from Japan. It looks more like a roadtrek, but it gets 30 mpg! http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/rvs/3997224147.html

Thanks for the advice! I tried a 13/32 wrench socket and it got the pedal off. Do all the toyota motorhomes have this floor problem down the road? I noticed there was a rustproof treatment done, but I think they did it too late. There is only one layer of metal on the drivers side and there were two layers on the passenger side. Mine only has 109,000 miles. It seems the frame goes out before the engine will.

I am hiring a welding to fix the floor on my Sunrader. I didn't release the floor was in such bad shape when I purchased it because of the rubber floor mat underneath the carpet. My concern is near the support on the drivers side. There isn't much metal holding that up. The welder wants to know how much metal I want remove. I can't seem to remove the gas securing the gas pedal to the floor. I tried a 3/8 and 7/16 wrench and one is too big and one is too small. The floor is still solid underneath the pedal so probably don't bother with removing the bolts, because I may have a difficult time getting them back in.

The one in Ohio seems like a better option since it is only a 3 hour drive. How exactly do you do a search on www.car-parts.com? I was putting in year 1986-1993 on a Toyota Truck for a rear axle assembly.

That is a killer deal with the wheels and tires. Do I need to disassemble the axle from the motorhome? I am trying to find the info you stated about your find in NY, but can't seem to find it. Could you please send me the info? Thanks

From the information gathered about the 1981 Sunraders, the gear ratio is probably 4:1. I will have to double check. What gear ratios do you have available? Do the axles come with the spring leaf? It looks like you are about a six hour drive away.

I don't know what the gear ratio is. Do I call Toyota dealership with my VIN number to figure it out? Do the axles come with the accessories so I won't have to fabricate any parts from the old axle?

How exactly do I do a search for a 1 ton axle on www.car-parts.com? Does it have to say floating axle or just 1 ton? I live really close to Elkhart, Indiana which is the RV capital of the world, but had no luck calling the RV salvage yards. It seems their numbers are disconnected. My Sunrader needs new tires, but I see no point in purchasing new tires if I will have to get a new axle down the road. The Sunrader is a 1981 with a manual transmission with 109,000 miles. The throwaway bearing is going out so I need to have the whole clutch replaced. The cheapest mechanic I found said he would do it for 500 dollars plus polish the flywheel for 35 dollars. There also seems to be difference of opinion on torque settings. My 1981 manual says 170 lbs of torque on the wheels while the recall manual states 65-85 lbs of torque.

It looks like I don't have a holding tank for the kitchen sink. It most of been taken out. It probably isn't really necessary to have a holding tank for the kitchen sink. It just adds more unnecessary weight. The manual states my dry weight of my Sunrader is 3990 lbs and the GVWR is 4690 lbs. With a full tank of gas, 10 gallons of fresh water, and a full 8 gallon holding tank would add around 320 lbs plus me and my dog is a total of 500 lbs. Plus another 100 lbs of carry on weight. I think I am okay with a 1/2 ton axle, but it would be nice to have the upgraded axle. Too bad finding the upgraded axle is like finding a rare jewel.

I don't see a tank under the kitchen sink on mine. I find I did have to run alot of water through the kitchen sink before water starts coming out on the back. (There is alot of PVC underneath for the kitchen sink!) So does everyone have a combined gray/black water tank under their bathroom? It seems to make more sense to have the kitchen sink combined with the toilet and the shower drain being a separate tank. I am going to redo all the plumbing with PEX since the plumbing already has small leaks. Have you figured out a way to completely drain the fresh water tank? It seems the water pump won't push all the water out. Also going to replace the water heater since the tank looks shot on it. Way too much rust on it!

I found a great deal on a Sunrader in Indiana that has 109,000 miles with a stick shift. The only thing I don't like about it is it has the 1/2 ton axle. I figured since it doesn't have an overhead AC that it helps with the weight issue. I have a couple questions concerning this camper. Does everyone have a gray/black combined water tank on their toyhome? The reason I ask is mine is a combined 7 gallon black/gray tank. Is this normal? I found that the manual of a Sunrader states that it has a separate 10 gallon tank for each black water and gray water. The other question is if I ever upgraded to the 1 ton axle would it be possible to put the tires from the original axle to the upgraded one. My plan is to repack the wheel bearings and 10 less psi on the outer tires.

It did have a one ton axle. At least it had that going for it.

The engine started up but there was no way to test drive it. There was a good amount of rust underneath and the tires were almost bald.

I drove to Chicago today to look at a Sunrader and it was not what I expected. There was mold on the ceiling and some of the cabinets were trashed. It also had 6000 more miles then the seller listed as! He said he hasnt tested the furnace or the stove when I told him to have propane ready to test. He was asking 5500 dollars when it should be priced at 1500 dollars. I didnt even get to test drive it! I feel bummed but I am not giving up. Has anyone ever flew to a location to get their RV? How did you do the money transfer or down payment so others wont grab it up? I also have a question about power steering. Which year models had power steering?

Yeah, I am in the midwest near the city of Chicago. This is a great service that you are providing! I have never seen a manual that is past 1985 model. Thanks again!

That is a beauty! I think I may have have to take a long road trip to pickup the toyhome I want. I really want a 18-20ft camper with that look. It seems the best toyhomes are in California. I don't want to travel that far though!

I am running into a dilemma with finding a stick shift Toyhome with a 1 ton axle. There are a bunch of auto trans Toyhomes with 1 ton axle, but finding a stick shift with a 1 ton axle is trying my patience. Is it really worth getting one with a manual transmission and trying to hire a mechanic to put a one ton axle on? Is there that much difference in gas mileage with an auto? Are the transmissions dependable on the 4 cylinder toys?

It is just going to me and my 16 lb Maltese dog. My plan is not to use the plumbing in the winter time since I won't be able to hookup since campgrounds are closed in the winter time. The only plumbing will be the toilet where I will use antifreeze in the holding tank. To insulate the camper, I will use foam board and a small insulated door to close off the dinette and sleeping area for winter use. I know this sounds real primitive, but I don't really need much. I don't want to invest alot in a camper, because it will see salt in the winter which will destroy any camper fast. My only concern is making sure to have a 6 bolt axle on the rear. It seems there are too many horror stories with the 5 bolt axle.

I am actually selling my house and going to live in a camper full-time so a pop-up one is not an option. Thanks for all your input.

I would consider a pop-up one, but I need to use the camper in colder weather.