Jump to content

Transmission gear oil?


Recommended Posts

It seems to be a different transmission than what the manual says because it has 23mm screws for the drain and fill plugs. Where the manual lists I believe 17mm, and the picture looks different from mine. So do you think this came standard for the motorhome chassis? Or did someone swap transmissions at some point? It is a 5 speed on a 78.

Any ideas what type of gear oil for this transmission? GL4 or GL5?

thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GL4 is for the tranny, 5 for the axles. You can get away with 5 in warm climates, but if you're somewhere with cold winters, you won't like the 5 when it gets cold...

Not sure on the plugs...I just changed mine a couple weekends ago but that info usually leaves my head until the next time I'm under there figuring out which wrench fits..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GL4 is for the tranny, 5 for the axles. You can get away with 5 in warm climates, but if you're somewhere with cold winters, you won't like the 5 when it gets cold...

Not sure on the plugs...I just changed mine a couple weekends ago but that info usually leaves my head until the next time I'm under there figuring out which wrench fits..

Went to 3 different auto stores, and the GL4 was not carried. Everyone says GL5 would be fine, interesting that people just disregard what manufacturers recommend, isn't it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

most of the moterhomes came with the L 43four speed check the info plate on the fender or firewall should list trans type the 5 speed of that era is most likly the W 50 five speed it was an option in trucks and cars of that era . WITH the oil you may not be able to buy the g l 4 now days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The designation of GL4 versus GL5 has nothing to do with oil thickness/viscosity. It refers to the level of EP additives (sulfur/phosphorus) that can harm brass synchronizer parts. Many new transmissions still call for GL4 or an equivalent like GM/Pennzoil "Syncrhomesh" oil. Some older equipment still calls for GL1 which has even less additives then GL4.

Oil thickness is another story and 90W gear oil is the same thickness as 30-40W motor oil which adds to the confusion.

Some older Aisan manual transmissions in Toyotas call for GL4 and most newer ones call for GL5. If unsure, use a GL4 oil OR a GL5 that is certified to be "yellow metal safe." REDLINE GL4 is one that is very popular in small and big trucks. MTL 70W80 GL-4 Gear Oil

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=45&pcid=7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Made a squeeling when clutch was engaged. uh oh :)

Squealing when pushing on the clutch is caused by the flywheel rotating at a different speed then the transmission input shaft (pilot bearing in use). That or the throughout bearing. Neither of those bearings turn once the clutch is fully engaged.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 83 manual says 5 for the axles, 4 or 5 for the tranny. I went with redline. 4 for the tranny, 5 for the axles. Crazy how little some auto parts stores carry in the way of gear oil, once you know what you're supposed to put in your truck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just did my 2011 Tacoma GL5 syn. 6spd trans transfer case and two diffs cost me a fortune.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 83 manual says 5 for the axles, 4 or 5 for the tranny. I went with redline. 4 for the tranny, 5 for the axles. Crazy how little some auto parts stores carry in the way of gear oil, once you know what you're supposed to put in your truck.

I find many people at auto parts stores and at dealerships to be clueless. I needed some GL-1 transmission oil last year while in northern Michigan. The owner of a Ford-New Holland dealership claimed there was "no such thing." That was pretty surprising since GL-1 is often marketed as "Ford" transmission oil.

Same for the local NAPA store. I finally got it a the Tractor Supply store. GL3, GL4, and GL5 can ruin certain transmissions made for GL-1.

When it comes to transmissions in cars in trucks with synchromesh transmissions - an oil with too much lube protection can shorten the lives of the synchronizer-clutches. If they slip instead of grab - the trans gets gear-clash and wears them out fast. Many auto tranmissions use brass cone-clutches for the syncrhonizers and that's why many call for GL-3 or GL-4 oil instead of GL-5. Many of the newest Aisin 6 speed manuals call for GL-3.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah it cost me over $100 for oil for my tranny and rear axle. Crazy. I justified it because I don't see having to change that oil again for years, and probably 50,000 miles.

I like Napa, but I've learned they only know so much...the problem is that they're so convinced that what they know is everything. It's not a sin not to know something. Being stubborn about claiming to know, when you actually don't, is another matter...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NAPA is only a parts reselling franchise. A specific store and its people can vary wildly. All depends who owns it and/or runs it. Some have a comprehensive knowledge of auto/truck mechanics and some know only what the computer screen tells them.

Manual trans in a typical Toyota truck holds around 2 quarts as does the rear axle. That's only 1 US gallon in total. If you spent $100 then you're paying $25 per quart? Even at NAPA that's way too high. My local NAPA sells quarts of petro-based GL5 85-90W for $6 or $14 for synthetic. GL5 80-90W gear oil in 2 gallon jugs is usually around $15-$20 per gallon and if in a 5 gallon pail it's $8 per gallon.. Specialty oils like Redline synthetic around $15 per quart. Pennzoil Synchromesh GL4 is around $8 per quart as long as you buy it with the Pennzoil brand name and NOT the GM equivalent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought redline, online. I have a little left over from the tranny fill, and after looking at my manual for capacity numbers, I bought two too many quarts for the axle. I just had memories of my rear axle on my 4x4 taking multiple jugs of fluid, and ordered oil before checking capacities. Plus I'm used to two axle/gear boxes...

So I'll have a tiny bit of gl4 in case I need a top off, and two quarts of gl5 as spares to carry on trips, which is never a bad thing. But the tranny took well over half of the gallon I bought (for $60) before any fluid came out the fill plug.

But yeah...taking that into account, it may have been just a sliver under $100 if I had bought just the right amount of oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Your 5 speed might have syncros made of yellow metal. My W50 trans has yellow metal syncros. It is best to run GL4 if you can. I run Royal Purple in my engine, trans, and differential. It's $10/qt for the engine oil and $20/ qt for the diff and trans fluid. But well worth it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah it cost me over $100 for oil for my tranny and rear axle. Crazy. I justified it because I don't see having to change that oil again for years, and probably 50,000 miles.

I like Napa, but I've learned they only know so much...the problem is that they're so convinced that what they know is everything. It's not a sin not to know something. Being stubborn about claiming to know, when you actually don't, is another matter...

You can punch a hole in the bottom of a larger automotive style oil filter, stick some super strong magnets to the filter, and pour the oil through it. (Only pierce the outer steel skin of the filter, not the inner metal at all) It will filter out the junk that's in the fluid, and the magnets will catch the shavings. You can leave out a quart, and replenish the additive package with a fresh quart, and re- use the oil in a pinch.

I have $60 worth of oil in my trans alone, and I decided to rebuild it after I got to AZ (350 miles). I'm not going to toss this oil, I am going to filter and reuse it. It is dirty, but running it thru a filter and with magnets it should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can punch a hole in the bottom of a larger automotive style oil filter, stick some super strong magnets to the filter, and pour the oil through it. (Only pierce the outer steel skin of the filter, not the inner metal at all) It will filter out the junk that's in the fluid, and the magnets will catch the shavings. You can leave out a quart, and replenish the additive package with a fresh quart, and re- use the oil in a pinch.

I have $60 worth of oil in my trans alone, and I decided to rebuild it after I got to AZ (350 miles). I'm not going to toss this oil, I am going to filter and reuse it. It is dirty, but running it thru a filter and with magnets it should be fine.

4 speed manual trans only holds 2 quarts of oil and the 5 speed manual holds 2 1/2 (W50 trans). What kind of oil are you paying $30 a quart for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...