runfromturtles Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 This interior was thrashed from mildew and just age. I am taking everything out and starting from scratch. Tearing out the lining on the ceiling walls, etc until I reach bare shell. My question, I was scraping some foam off the ceiling and I thought that I was going to hit the fiberglass shell. But the next layer was soft Styrofoam stuff. Should I remove the styrofoam? Would there be anything else under there that could be harvesting mold spores? Any other general tips for completely gutting a sunrader? In other news I got her running today this is my $500 78 sunrader project and I was quite overwhelmed but i'm pretty happy that we got her partially running. (Fuel isn't making it to the carb) So we connected the fuel pump directly to a can of gas and it ran great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Also, how on earth would 14 year old tires still look great with no cracking? I know i'll be replacing them soon, but something seems weird about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikesta Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Hey there. Congrats on the purchase. Stoked that you are excited and it sounds like you are diving in. The fiberglass is just the outer shell which should hold up fine when gutting but I recommend finishing it before any lengthy driving as the foam provides more structure. Also I also recommend sitting down with your favorite beverage and start reading up on them here. It's a great spot and many have had some of the same questions. Search on sunrader or whatever topic you are looking for. I'd really love to see some pictures of how you found it and the progress. I find it very enjoyable to watch other people build up their rigs, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Thanks for the response. I will do some searching. I'll take some before pictures tomorrow. Some rust issues in certain areas where moisture was trapped. Floor boards have rusted all the way through. And some concerns about rust on the main frame. We'll see what we dig up. Hey there. Congrats on the purchase. Stoked that you are excited and it sounds like you are diving in. The fiberglass is just the outer shell which should hold up fine when gutting but I recommend finishing it before any lengthy driving as the foam provides more structure. Also I also recommend sitting down with your favorite beverage and start reading up on them here. It's a great spot and many have had some of the same questions. Search on sunrader or whatever topic you are looking for. I'd really love to see some pictures of how you found it and the progress. I find it very enjoyable to watch other people build up their rigs, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy in Jax Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 I have been working on my 18' Sunrader for over a year and half. Lots of time and money. I too had a lot of rust and wood dry rot. I have posted 480 pic's of my remodel on the minitruckcamper site, for those people doing the same remodel. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/minitruckcampers/photos/album/518890692/pic/list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdboltdude Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 I have been working on my 18' Sunrader for over a year and half. Lots of time and money. I too had a lot of rust and wood dry rot. I have posted 480 pic's of my remodel on the minitruckcamper site, for those people doing the same remodel. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/minitruckcampers/photos/album/518890692/pic/list just checked out your pics. great job your remodel!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunrading Arkansas Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 ^ Roy's is pretty epic, lots of good stuff there. I've not done much structurally, mostly mechanical/functional/cosmetic stuff. But as Mikesta said, there's info good as gold here to be found. Hope your sunrader's rehab goes well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Very carefully drain that gas tank, drop it and clean out the filter screen. You might get a lot of crud out when you drain it, too. It's a good idea to replace all the rubber fuel lines while you're there. I did that on my 83 4x4 and will be doing it soon on my 78Chinook. Those rubber lines go just like radiator hoses. 35 years is a long life for a rubber hose... That should solve your gas problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Discouraged at the moment debating wondering if it's worth it to take this project on as the frame rust might be just too far gone. I don't mind starting from ground up with a solid foundation but this is just sketchy. 90% of the frame is fine, it's just towards the front bumper that has the flaking, I wonder if just replacing the cross beam under the front bumper is all it would need. Beyond my abilities though. See pics to see what i've got myself into Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 I will consider removing the shell and finding a solid truck to build onto. Maybe keep the flat bed for farm use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy in Jax Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 I think a transplant is the best idea when the frame has this much rust. You can always find solid truck with more horse power in good running shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 I think a transplant is the best idea when the frame has this much rust. You can always find solid truck with more horse power in good running shape. I agree however, I do believe it is beyond my ability. I mean cutting into a cab, and attaching a shell to a foreign truck does not seem like something a novice could do. Next time I see a $500 sunrader I won't just be committing to it without seeing it So I either sell it, or take the shell off. What do you think it's worth? It does run and sounds good. Have to get the clutch working before I can drive it. You think I could recover my losses? $500 + $150 to tow. Let me reiterate 95% of the frame looks fine. It's just that cross beam under the bumper.You would think someone with wielding skills could repair it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Someone with welding and fabrication skills could absolutely repair. I've seen amazing things done with total rust-buckets (which I wouldn't qualify this as one of). It's up to you. If you have a friend with those skills, this could still be worth it. Especially if they'll do it just to be a friend, or do it cheap. But it looks to me like a project for someone with some serious time, a bit of money, and mechanic & fabrication skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy in Jax Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 I look at an 84 Sunrader in Georga couple years ago, they were asking $1500. It ran but had a gutted interior. The rearend had not been upgraded. I walked away, the fiberglass shell was worth $500. The young man selling was talking about removing shell and making truck a utility vehical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 I look at an 84 Sunrader in Georga couple years ago, they were asking $1500. It ran but had a gutted interior. The rearend had not been upgraded. I walked away, the fiberglass shell was worth $500. The young man selling was talking about removing shell and making truck a utility vehical. Can't imagine many people being in the market for just the shell. I wonder if it would be fairly simply to take bed off another truck and install it. Has anyone here ever swapped a shell before? I certainly wouldn't ask for $1500 for this POS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunrading Arkansas Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 The guy I bought my full-float rearend from, sold the 21ft Sunrader shell (in same/worse condition as yours) for $400-500. If it were me, I'd scrub the whole outside down with some Bartender's Friend - it'll increase the curb appeal if/when you do sell it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 "Simple" is a relative term. I mean yeah, you're just taking it off one truck and putting it on another. But... There's a 4x4 Chinook conversion thread on here. Talk to him. He knows what it takes to do a truck swap. It all really just depends on your skills and determination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikesta Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 I'm in the market for a shell... but you are too far away . Thanks for posting up pictures. Rust IMHO (in my humble opinion) is a deal breaker on any rig I buy. Its just too much work to get back to perfect. You can look at it another way too. You just bought a Driving storage unit for the yard for $650. Not bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHS Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 It is not as difficult as you may think to take that coach off the chassis. I took one off a rusted chassis & put it on a chassis that had a rotted "stick" built toyota mh. Was easier than I thought. Mine was w/side door. Remove fender skirts put a 4"X4" across under coach over the wheels support on each end over some hydraulic jacks. There were 4 carriage bolts through floor into cross 1"X2" steel box tubes.The most attachment was around cab just a lot of screws easy to remove. Rock the coach as you jack to separate, it will almost balance on the 4X4 you will nead to put additional support some where. let the air out of the tires & pull the truck out from under the coach. If you could find a rotted out toyota "stick built" mh to tear apart may save some time & work that way, they seam to appear more often than sunraders. Good luck & remember to keep it fun, it goes easier that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Thanks for all the encouragement. I definitely want to keep her if I can. And I love the idea of keeping the shell. It's the smallest sunrader shell they made other than the pop camper. I've never seen one like it before. Great idea to look for rotted motorhome, however it's a lot of work and debris to remove the rotted motorhome. I'll keep my eyes peeled. But if I was to find a donor vehicle a 4x4 truck would be the way to go for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 T100 long bed would fit the bill but I have seen many toyota motorhomes that were going to pennies cause of water damage in the coach. If I see one I'll send it to you if it's pretty close. Linda s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 Any tips for removing the cabinets that the sink and oven are on? It feels almost as if they are screwed into the wall from the outside but I cannot find the screw holes. I guess I can saw my way through until I can see something. Made a little more progress on the engine side of this rig. Even if I won't be using it. It was my goal to get it at least driveable around the yard. The clutch slave cylinder was completely frozen with rust. Finally got it changed and the clutch appears to be operating. The only problem, it squeels when you engage the clutch. I'll be changing the gear oil before I attempt anything else, it could just be a bearing that hasn't got any lubrication over the years sitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 The clutch slave cylinder was completely frozen with rust. Finally got it changed and the clutch appears to be operating. The only problem, it squeels when you engage the clutch. I'll be changing the gear oil before I attempt anything else, it could just be a bearing that hasn't got any lubrication over the years sitting. There are two ball bearings that spin whenever you push on the clutch pedal. Both stop spinning once you take your foot off the pedal. Pilot and throwout bearing and either one can squeal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 There are two ball bearings that spin whenever you push on the clutch pedal. Both stop spinning once you take your foot off the pedal. Pilot and throwout bearing and either one can squeal. Are any of them an easy fix or do I have to take apart my transmission? I don't do that sort of work, so my little adventure fixing this truck comes to an end. At least I can move the thing around the yard if I have to. I'm not sure how long it would take for the bearing to have a catastrophic failure. My new adventure of removing the shell from the truck and finding a better truck begins I realize this could last years... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 They are part of the clutch. You need to take out the transmission, but not take it apart. Pilot bearing either takes a special puller tool, or some McGuivering. The clutch is bolted to the flywheel, which is bolted to the engine. So the only thing you "take apart" is unbolting the transmission from the engine. Clutch jobs are actually pretty simple, just dirty, awkward, heavy work. And totally different on a 2wd that you have to have up on jacks to get enough space to get under, and get the tranny out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 They are part of the clutch. You need to take out the transmission, but not take it apart. Pilot bearing either takes a special puller tool, or some McGuivering. The clutch is bolted to the flywheel, which is bolted to the engine. So the only thing you "take apart" is unbolting the transmission from the engine. Clutch jobs are actually pretty simple, just dirty, awkward, heavy work. And totally different on a 2wd that you have to have up on jacks to get enough space to get under, and get the tranny out. Exactly I don't like working under cars without a floor jack. Pain in the rear. Also I only have a gravel drive way. I have actually had a car fall off the jack before because the jack started sinking into the ground... Any work I do involves at least 4 jack stands and a jack just to be sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromturtles Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 More brainstorming. I am really toying with the thought of putting this little sunrader on a 1991 dodge cummins diesel. Gets decent gas mileage (high teens) and all the towing capacity I could ever want, can even convert to bio diesel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 How far are you along now? In case you haven't removed the cabinets, a small sledge hammer and wonder bar do the job pretty darn fast. Did you see the "put the sawzall down" thread by Steve who put his Sunrader house on another Toyota truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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