No Power in Coach off shore line

[DaveO]

Model: 1983 Sunrader

Issue: I am having a issue which I am assuming is the converter or breaker box.

Known RV problems: Had floor rot near passenger side window from weeper blocked, Oven Broken, Kitchen fan did not work, A/C Removed?, coach Battery and Terminals removed

Note: I have never had the RV up and running since I purchased it. The previous owner removed the terminals under the hood for the coach battery and It appears they removed the once existing AC Unit.

Story: I decided to use the shore line to check power and the appliances. I plugged in the line with a adapter to a standard extension cord and plugged it into a outlet with a trip on it. I pushed (not switched) in what I think to be the two breakers (main breaker area had no switch and was solid) and !!No Power!!

Questions:

1. I was under the assumption there was a converter and a breaker box, were these ever built in one small unit?

2. Is there any reason the Shoreline won't run any power off a extension cord to normal house outlet? (Breaker in house did not pop)

3. I have no idea where to really start as I am in the dark on the whole wiring set-up and I know nothing about any of the appliances. Is there a way to test the breaker box or trace to see where I am losing power from the shore line?

4. Is there any reason they would have cut the terminals and removed the AC unit because of a electrical issue? If so is the best options to just rewire the whole coach (The cabinet skins are off and the kitchen cabinet & Oven are coming out)

Thanks,

Dave

[waiter]

Your sunrader will be a little different than my Dolphin. but I bet the power distribution would be almost identical.

1) The "Converter" serves three purposes (It acts as the AC distribution, DC distribution, and AC to DC power supply to re-charge yuor battery and supply 12 volts to the coach See photo of mine with cover removed

2) Most Converter shore power cords will have a 30 amp plug on the end (looks like an electric dryer plug), Most also have a adapter so you can plug that big 30 amp connector into a standard wall outlet. Just remember, the standard wall outlet is only good for about 15 amps. so if your trying to run an Air Conditioner or an electric heater, it may pop the breaker in the house. SEE PLUG ADAPTERS

3) You need to buy a small inexpensive "voltmeter" and learn how to use it,

4) I assume your talking about AC as in "110 volt AC power", not "Air Conditioner". You can purchase a new "Converter" faily cheap, this offers you a modern power supply that won't fry your battery.

Typical Converter

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Maineah]

RV's are not wired the same as a house so if you find that some one has removed stuff be sure you know what you are doing before you attempt to rewire it. If wired improperly it can be dangerous. It should have a breaker box of some sort either in the converter or separate usually with 2 or 3 breakers. With out breakers and a 30 amp power cord it is possible to over load the MH wiring the power cable is capable of delivering 30 amps the #14 and #12 wires are not, so they can over heat with too much load and no breaker (2 electric heaters will over load a #14 wire). A metal frame motor home, travel trailer or house trailer is treated as a sub panel with an isolated neutral their ground and neutral are not bonded together like it is in a service entrance of a house.

[sdboltdude]

your coach battery should be inside the coach

maybe last owner took off relay for invertor that's under the hood?

if you have a battery in coach then it would be inside a box and have some

type of breathing pvc pipe going to rv sidewall and outside..

take some pics of what's under bench seat/bed maybe we can help with

some pics..

here is a pic of my coach batt

[linda s]

No it's a Sunrader. Battery was probably originally installed in the engine compartment.

Linda S

[sdboltdude]

No it's a Sunrader. Battery was probably originally installed in the engine compartment.

Linda S

ty good to know for future..