83 Sunrader Updates (thus far).

[Sunrading Arkansas]

Over the past 3 months (since the axle swap) we've been prepping our little Sunrader for her maiden voyage....wanted to share our updates (mostly genaric) if only to provide ideas for others



Sandblasted, repainted all wheels and hot water heater cover(hi-temp Rustoleum inside). All new Hankook RA08 (including the 5-lug spare) and a new gravity-fed water inlet (white circular - Camping World Item# 60332)...oh and front marker light assys. (Oreillyauto.com - Part # : 18-1153-50 & 18-1153-90 | Line: TYC)




Our Sunrader had a Engine Bay-mounted size 24 house battery, so I rerouted it to the rear using 4ga battery cable and increased it to a size 29. Our original 20# Propane tank had been incorrectly modified with an OPD valve, so it was removed and replaced with an 11# (True Value item # 839316) vertical tank. I also added a 12ft hose extension so that the hose can be connected to an external 20# vertical BBQ style tank when stopped any extended length.


Here you can see the coiled hose, remounted regulator, and in-line propane tank gauge (CampingWorld Item # 55643).



I used the existing 8ga wire with auto-reset circuit breaker run to the Converter, and used 1ga run through the box using rubber grommets (Oreilly's...can't recall part#, but fit snug around their 1ga) for my Inverter using a 150amp in-line breaker.



After much deliberation, I decided to go with a NaturePower 1000w MSW Inverter (CampingWorld Item # 67195). The reasons I chose this Inverter were:
1) It was cheap (even more so because I had a $25 one off one-item coupon)
2) It had GFCI, LCD, and Remote Switch
3) I could purchase (and return to, if necessary) from a physical store
4) My requirements were minimal - Microwave (5-10min./day max), Work Laptop, Cell phone, occasional power tool - it handles all of these without issue.
Until I decide on which way I will wire it's power, I have simply attached a 8ft 10ga extension cord. I also purchased and mounted a generic Inverter switch (Napaonline.com Part Number: BK 7821734) which was surprisingly a bit of a PITA, but functions as it should.



The microwave we are using is a GE 1kw (listed draw, output unknown but probably 700watt) that was my wife's from college which I didn't expect to work, but does and draws 750watts during usage according to the inverter's LCD. However, I did have to "modify" the feet posts using a ball-peen hammer so the cabinet door would clear the top of the microwave. In the left of that picture you can see collapsible storage bins my wife found at WalMart ($6/ea.) which fit perfectly behind our factory table (as there is no way in h___ a full-size human could sit back there comfortably).



In the closet we took some advise from another in this forum (sorry i was never good at citing sources) and use an LED tap-light with auto shut-off. Also found some rubberized clothes hangers that don't rattle around when on the move.



In the "Triple S" as I call it (because you could do all 3 at the same time), I replaced the vent with a new darkened one, the shower/faucet with an oxygenics kit, sanded/repainted/resealed the floor pan (used "Almond" Rustoleum appliance epoxy - a perfect match), and replaced the shower curtain. All works well, though the Oxygenics uses more water than I anticipated based on other's reviews.



Installed Allure flooring (HomeDepot - Internet #202885489 Corsica Dark) which conveniently took 1 box +1 plank....But turned out nice and trimmed with painted pvc 1/4round and dark brown rubber transitions.



In lieu of clearance lights, I used adhesive backed clearance reflectors (Oreilly's generic oblong). I went this route for several reasons:
1) My clearance light wiring was in disrepair, and I had neither the time or patience to replace/repair it
2) It was much cheaper ($1/ea, compared to $? to replace and rewire)
3) They seal flush, water tight (holes/screws filled with silicone), and generally look "cleaner"
4) I fail to see the point in these on RVs other than to be an incessant PITA to owners - I read extensively of Truckers removing there's to cut down on DOT issues....basically if they ("cleanly") aren't there, no issue - if they are and are non-functioning, ticket.
I fell somewhere in between, so if/when I am stopped/ticketed I will remove and fiberglass to a "factory" look.....rant over.



I removed the aluminum garbage that was riveted to the bumper (under which serious rust was forming), wire wheeled, rust-treated, and painted flat black. The trailer hitch was installed by the previous owner to pull a small john boat (no, there is no frame damage and the mounting appears structurally sound, although I would never attempt the same...especially with the old 5-lug axle it had), but I rust treated and black-glossed it and installed a cheap $60 cargo carrier to hold folding chairs, a dry-box, and perhaps a small generator - If I go that route.

MISC UPDATES:
1) Installed additional Shower outlet in the J-drain to optionally bypass the black-water tank with a garden hose. 2) Re engineered the under-sink shelf so more storage real estate is available. 3) Treated the water-stained tweed headliner with Instagone (worked great! stains had to be 15+ years old, pretty much unnoticeable now) 4) Replaced misc. fan/drive belts with Gates. 5) 4" Memory Foam mattress topper and waterproof mattress pad..............I'm sure there's more...



Getting closer and closer to a state of near-doneness (as it seems one can never be completely finished with these old toyhouses). I still plan to:

*Fix Exhaust Manifold leak....ugh....

*Install a smarter/quieter water pump

*100watt Solar system (still on the fence on this one)

*New smarter Converter (it still has the original and glass fused board...this may be hired done at CampingWorld as it looks like a PITA to do the board....we'll see).

*Etc., Etc., Etc....


Will post more as they happen, thanks again to everyone who contributes here; it has saved me countless hours of work and research.

-Patrick

[Mikesta]

Wow, you have done a ton to your rig, its really coming together. Is this one of the little 18' rigs. Never seen a bathroom in one. Very very cool rig. Where are you all going to trek?

[Totem]

removing AC in Arkansas?

you are Brave Brave folks.

Without AC i don't think my family would be able to survive half of the trips we have done and we live in Michigan.

In fact I am still on the fence on getting a separate generator to power the AC. As i just recently purchased a rustic cabin up north I'm heavily leaning toward a Honda or comparable chinese or japanese knockoff inverter genset for AC reasons alone.

Last years yellowstone trip was tantamount to being in a sauna for 95% of the time. the babies were miserable and I honestly couldn't wait each day for the arrival and 30 amp hookup to get that AC unit kicking.

I wish I wasn't addicted to AC so much but alas I am. Just can't deal with 100% humidity and temps over 88 degrees inside a toyhome and ours always hits that easily. Being the driver with an operational converted in Dash AC is ok, but the problem is that the wife and kids open all the windows effectively rendering the dash AC a horsepower leach so I never use it.

you could effectively quiet your water pump and increase pressure by adding an accumulator tank next to your storage tank for pennies on the dollar. (I plan on doing this soon) like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-181-201-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B004KF41CY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1365452195&sr=8-4&keywords=accumulator+tank

Love the work so far keep going!

[sdboltdude]

keep up the good work

its nice to see everything come together

[zero]

removing AC in Arkansas?

you are Brave Brave folks.

Without AC i don't think my family would be able to survive half of the trips we have done and we live in Michigan.

I wouldn't have believed your comment until I lived in northern Michigan a few summers. It gets HOT and humid by my standards. Here in central NY at 2000 feet we've never used AC. At our small farm near the Mac Bridge in Michigan - we run it a lot in the house and the car. Hard to figure considering how far north it is (Presque Isle County). I could see it in Detroit. But I'm talking the northern tip of the lower peninsula. I put a new steel roof on our house last summer and my biggest problem was keeping my feet from getting burnt. We went on a camping trip to the eastern UP and even there it was blistering hot. The town of Paradisde at Whitefish bay felt more like Hell. I turned on the R12 based AC for the first time in many years in my 94 Ford F250 and truck camper setup. To my surprise, it worked! Good old R12 "freon." wish is was still commonly available.

[zero]

After much deliberation, I decided to go with a NaturePower 1000w MSW INverter (CampingWorld Item # 67195). The reasons I chose this INverter were:

1) It was cheap (even more so because I had a $25 one off one-item coupon)

2) It had GFCI, LCD, and Remote Switch

3) I could purchase (and return to, if neccessary) from a physical store

4) My requirements were minimal - Microwave (5-10min./day max), Work Laptop, Cell phone, occasional power tool - it handles all of these without issue.

Until I decide on which way I will wire it's power, I have simply attached a 8ft 10ga extesion cord. I also purchased and mounted a generic INverter switch (Napaonline.com Part Number: BK 7821734) which was supprisingly a bit of a PITA, but fuctions as it should.

20130330_001709.jpg

The microwave we are using is a GE 1kw (listed draw, output unknown but probably 700watt) that was my wife's from college which I didn't expect to work, but does and draws 750watts during usage according to the inverter's LCD.

I am pretty amazed that your mircowave works. I don't doubt your comments, but am quite surprised just the same. In most cases that's I've had experience with - running a conventional microwave from a battery powered inverter is very difficult.

Most (if not all) modified-wave inverters make incorrect voltage and waves to run a microwave well. If you stick a conventional volt-meter into your's - I bet it will read around 96 to 108 volts instead of 118-120 VAC. That is, unless you have a "root-mean-square" RMS voltmeter.

Also - any conventional 700 watt microwave I've tested, draws 1200-1300 watts. The advertised "700 watts" is the alleged cooking power, not the AC draw. You say it's advertised as consuming 1000 watts. If true, maybe that is the key? I've tested many that were rated that way and they spiked at 1300 watts and not the advertised 1000 watts. Can't say any were GEs though. I'm wondering if it's a real old one with a truly low amp draw?

I've tested many different brands and models of microwaves as well as over 30 different make and model inverters. Thus my surprise.

The other added problem is - even with a perfect inverter (perfect voltage and Hertz waves) - it's near impossible to draw 1200-1300 watts from a single battery and not have the voltage spike below 10.5 (which shuts the inverter off). Even hard to do with a pair of them.

I'm not writing all this to dispute your success. I'm just trying to ascertain exactly what you have an why it works.

[zero]

Another question I forgot to ask. Have you tested the microwave to see it it's actually working as it should? A simple test is to just stick a container of cold water in it, run for 60 seconds and then check the water temp. Do it first on grid power, and then retest on inverter power. If you've done this and it IS working as it should - I'd like to explore this further. It's almost impossible with a mod-wave inverter and one battery. Note I said "almost".

[Sunrading Arkansas]

@ Mikesta - Thanks, ya it's an 18' with the Donnicker/Shower combo. This summer we're planning to take her out on a ~7500mi. loop from NW Arkansas to the foothills of CA, up the cost to Seattle and the across to Glacier and Yellowstone...and maybe Rushmore...we'll have a solid 1.5months, so may have to cut some out....either way it'll be an adventure!

@ Totem - I'm not 100% committed to no AC yet, but we've tent camped in Arkansas's 100+ degree 90% humidity since we were kids so I guess we're acclimated, and since we are traveling west in the hottest months (away from the humidity) it will feel A LOT cooler...at least judging by our past trips to CA, UT, CO, etc. Thanks for the head's up on the accumulator tank

@jdemaris - It truely stumps me, the microwave is functional as the first thing I did was heat water in it. However, a standard coffee mug took 3min. to heat to an acceptable level (steaming)....the only thing I can surmise is that the nuker has some means of identifying available power (amperage/wattage?) and adjusting cooking power accordingly....though I highly doubt it. She got it her freshman year 05, so it's not that old. There is a slightly noticeable differance in the sound of the microwave between INverter and shore power...but I thought it was due to the MSW being less efficient. Either way, it functions for now - only time will tell if it is slowly dying doing so.....hmmm

Although this is far from scientific, I just ran out to do a quick test:

Here is a large photo of the Microwave running off the inverter - you can almost make out the watt-draw reading of 0.69kw. It started cold at 0.64kw and eventually occillated between 0.69-0.72kw.

here is a close up of the watt-draw read out - 0.70kw

4.5minutes later I had this (and some rather strong instant coffee!). It's hard to make out but there is steam. The battery voltage readout was at 12.7VDC when I began, it dipped down to 11.6VDC while cooking, and returned to 12.5VDC when finished....never came remotely close (at least per the LCD read out) to the INverter undervoltage alarm @11.2VDC or shutdown cutt-off @10.5VDC. The inverter is rated 1000w continuous and 2000w peak (for how long it can opperate above its continuous rating is unknown).

Here's the specs on the nuker.

All-in-all, I'm truely surprised that it works. But it does, and that's all that matters to me....maybe I scared it into submission with my ball-pein hammer shenanigans?

Thanks everyone for the feedback!

[Mikesta]

Well, I have a Large lot up by Microsoft (Redmond, WA) if you need a place to recharge for a few days. Any Sunrader is welcome in my back 40.

[Sunrading Arkansas]

Thanks for the offer Mikesta, always nice to have an optional landing point in unfamiliar territory! Neither of us have ever been to the PNW, so we're really looking forward to it.

[MontanaChinook]

Only a need for AC out west if you're sensitive to heat, or...uh....too pampered.

I've lived in Utah, Idaho, Montana and spent time in Cali, Arizona, a LOT of time in southern Utah. Never used AC, even in the very few vehicles I've owned that have had it. Always preferred the windows down, or just sweating, rather than that artificial cocoon of cooled air.

[Totem]

to me if I am gonna sweat I had better be outside. sweating while listening to two babies cry in misery also whilst Semi Trucks blow past me honking their horns in anger with the window down in my ears is not my idea of fun in my young age of 39. the AC bubble is not just for temperature reasons but noise also.

If I were lucky enough to be 63 years old with kids out of the nest and retired or even sans crabby wife then heck yah, i'd be right there with ya.

JD is quite correct Michigan can get swamp muggy. I wish my rig had R12, but it was converted long ago and the newer coolant doesnt kick cold as nicely as I bet it used to when it was R12 based.

if my Sunrader had AC like my buick i would be good to go. as it stand now it will cool the drivers cab but only if its blocked off; which wife and kids wont allow. they want solidarity in suffering.

[MontanaChinook]

Yes, my preference for no AC is solely my own. There's typically no one riding with me to complain.

[zero]

Only a need for AC out west if you're sensitive to heat, or...uh....too pampered.

I've lived in Utah, Idaho, Montana and spent time in Cali, Arizona, a LOT of time in southern Utah. Never used AC, even in the very few vehicles I've owned that have had it. Always preferred the windows down, or just sweating, rather than that artificial cocoon of cooled air.

My wife is the one that really wilts from the combo of heat and high humidity. She worked outside for the BLA in the southwest and claims the dry heat never bothered her.

Only here in the northeast does she act half dead unless the AC is on (on hot/humid NY and MI summer days).

[zero]

If I were lucky enough to be 63 years old with kids out of the nest and retired or even sans crabby wife then heck yah, I'd be right there with ya.

Not sure that's ever going to happen in my lifetime. I'm over 60 with four kids "out of the nest." But I (we) also have a 5th "new" boy who is 9 years old, along with a 7 year-old grand-daughter that goes traveling and camping with us. No crabby wife - just a good mid-western one with an even temper.

Neat thing is - my wife is home-schooling our newest and last child so we are free to travel anytime we want.

[Sunrading Arkansas]

Well, looks like the AC is functioning well now....I cleaned the evaporator coils, plugged her in and she got nice and cold. It was about 78 today and there was a noticable difference in the temp inside....so I guess I'll keep it. Now I'll have to get a Kilawatt and see what it draws so I can get an idea of what size generator I can get away with.....It's a Dometic Duo-Therm so I'm assuming I'll just have to get a 3k watt. Craig$list here I come....ugh!