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I'm not sure the gain is worth it. I also think the gain will be negligible. I have driven a manual all my life and prefer them to an automatic except in a MH! It just is so much easier to drive with the automatic you have much more control backing up etc. Another consideration is clutch ware takes a lot to get a 6000# load to move there is some science involved with an automatic and torque amplification. It's not a job for the faint of heart either the best way would be to find a rusted out pickup or a wreck and then you would not have to go to the junk yard 215 times to get the last little part you'll need.

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I was considering doing this, I looked around for a donor truck, etc.

I decided to just go with what I have (3 spd with OD). I have plenty of tranny cooling (extra cooler), I inspected the tail shaft before the Alaska trip and there wasn't any play.

Probably if I have a catastrophic tranny failure, I may look at it this option again, but at this point, I'm happy with what I have.

I would love to have the torque converter lockout, but thats not available with the 4 cyl auto tranny, I think it is on the 6 cyl.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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The V6 manual trans is pretty much indestructable, swapping out to manual is not as bad as 1 would think.

You can use your existing engine ECU even though it is an auto ECU- it can be fooled. when I say fooled I dont mean in a hokey unreliable bite you in the behind later kind of fooled, but just simple wiring mods will make your ECU happy.

Any1 on this board could do the wiring for it.

I have wired a Lexus Auto ECU for a manual trans, its the same type of ECU.

I have had friends who swapped in a manual in 4 and 6 cyl trucks (Toyota) and its all the same.

I figured some of you had considered this swap before and wondered if it can be done without headaches, just thought I would clarify that it is do-able. especially the 4cyl guys with that weak trans.

I have a 4 speed manual in my 83 21 ft sunrader and I love it. an auto would be nice but onlt if I had a turbo diesel to back it up

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Well bottom line the auto transmissions really are not weak with proper care they should exceed 150K with out an overhaul that is pretty good for some thing that weights as much as they do. Good coolers proper flush at some thing around every 30K and they will treat you well. It's doable but not a snap and you'll need some one to do your drive shaft it will have to be cut. There are a lot of things that have to be changed the complete pedal assembly, clutch cylinders, flywheels, clutch parts and by the way early 5 spds had issues with 5th gear. For the cost of a swap you could get a nice rebuild on the automatic maybe twice unless some one gave you a truck with a brand new clutch in it a new clutch assembly from Toyota runs around $400.

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Well bottom line the auto transmissions really are not weak with proper care they should exceed 150K with out an overhaul that is pretty good for some thing that weights as much as they do. Good coolers proper flush at some thing around every 30K and they will treat you well. It's doable but not a snap and you'll need some one to do your drive shaft it will have to be cut. There are a lot of things that have to be changed the complete pedal assembly, clutch cylinders, flywheels, clutch parts and by the way early 5 spds had issues with 5th gear. For the cost of a swap you could get a nice rebuild on the automatic maybe twice unless some one gave you a truck with a brand new clutch in it a new clutch assembly from Toyota runs around $400.

You are correct on almost all accounts, proper maintenance is key to long term toy ownership. these are made to last 25 yrs plus-

Just as a note for people considering the swap thats all.

I didnt say the swap was a snap, rather to do the wiring was a snap.

As for the 22r 5 speeds they are very weak, if you use your 5th wisely they can last a very long time. 5th gear was an after thought in these trans. it is located on the end of a shaft outside of a bearing cap....

The v6 trans is what I was refering to and yes it can be bolted up to a 4 cylinder as well. 22RTE belhousing just FYI. if someone would be doing this swap that would be tha way to go. and your looking at around 300,000 miles on the R150 trans before any issues may arise if any. again, proper maintenace is the key here.

Anyone doing this swap would be better off to go to the local pick and pull and pull the pedal assembley as 1 piece (3,4 bolts) cost, 20-25.00. you only have to add the clutch pedal, brackets were built into all of your trucks for a clutch pedal.

the clutch, and disk are inexpensive and required flywheel is as well and can be sourced locally, all of that would be less than a rebuilt trannys torque convertor alone (rebuilds requires use of new torque convertor or no warranty)

a used flywheel runs 25-55- you dont have to have a new one, a new high performance clutch (much better than an OEM) 139-189 depending on performance level you want.

last I checked a good quality rebuild is well over 500, so to say you can get a couple rebuilds for what it would cost to swap to a manual is off base.

The driveshaft doesnt always have to be cut in every case.

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  • 6 months later...

I converted my MH to a 5 speed manual from an automatic, and could not be happier! It is great having that extra gear especially pulling up hills. Here are some links (look at post #12 for the links): http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4347&st=0&p=25019&hl="5%20speed" &fromsearch=1entry25019 . Another member talks about his conversion, and that was the push that made me convert mine (plus the auto was going out, and on hills there was such a big gap between gears). I have a rough parts list and state the drive-shaft length differences (it will have to be lengthen for 84-88 trucks).

I did not have to do anything to fool the ECU; however, I did have to wire up the backup lights and bypass the safety start switch (neutral and park for the automatic).

Regarding the comment that 5 speeds are not very strong, I read that it was the pre 84 trucks that had the reliability prone 5 speeds, and by 84 all was well. I use 5th gear all the time, typically above 65mph now (previously 60mph, the engine runs better).

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I converted my MH to a 5 speed manual from an automatic, and could not be happier! It is great having that extra gear especially pulling up hills. Here are some links (look at post #12 for the links): http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4347&st=0&p=25019&hl="5%20speed" &fromsearch=1entry25019 . Another member talks about his conversion, and that was the push that made me convert mine (plus the auto was going out, and on hills there was such a big gap between gears). I have a rough parts list and state the drive-shaft length differences (it will have to be lengthen for 84-88 trucks).

I did not have to do anything to fool the ECU; however, I did have to wire up the backup lights and bypass the safety start switch (neutral and park for the automatic).

Regarding the comment that 5 speeds are not very strong, I read that it was the pre 84 trucks that had the reliability prone 5 speeds, and by 84 all was well. I use 5th gear all the time, typically above 65mph now (previously 60mph, the engine runs better).

I have replaced as many early model as late model 5 speeds, with care and maintenance they can last a long time- truth be told the reason I typically see them fail is due to larger tires installed and no gear change to compensate, or towing large loads and using 5th when one should be in 4th putting it under stress "loading" it up. it is wise to use your 5th sparingly and only when your RPMs require you to shift, leaving it in 5th while being bogged down up a hill, strong headwind or a serious load will wear on the 5th gear bearing very excessively. thats why most of them have failed

Is that an offer??:hyper:

All Rvs are welcome at my shop- get all the parts you need and we can work something out- or we can source the parts for you.

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I have replaced as many early model as late model 5 speeds, with care and maintenance they can last a long time- truth be told the reason I typically see them fail is due to larger tires installed and no gear change to compensate, or towing large loads and using 5th when one should be in 4th putting it under stress "loading" it up. it is wise to use your 5th sparingly and only when your RPMs require you to shift, leaving it in 5th while being bogged down up a hill, strong headwind or a serious load will wear on the 5th gear bearing very excessively. thats why most of them have failed

All Rvs are welcome at my shop- get all the parts you need and we can work something out- or we can source the parts for you.

Wow... What all will I need and how much will it cost?:ThumbUp:

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Wow... What all will I need and how much will it cost?:ThumbUp:

a transmission, flywheel/pressure plate/clutch disc, clutch slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, hydraulic lines for clutch system, clutch pedal, new hole in the floorboard (unless your has a floor mounted shifter) shift boot for shifter, reverse lights will need to be wired off of the manual, and a your driveshaft may need to be modified (not sure on that one yet)

I think that about covers the parts- did I miss anything anyone?

As far as prices go, alot will depend on what parts you come up with or I will need to come up with, I prefer to discuss prices with you over the phone because of the many variables- I dont want someone to pin me down because I quoted 1 price on here and it ends up different when we get into it.

PM me if you have any more questions, I hope I covered most of what you are asking here

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  • 5 months later...

You are correct on almost all accounts, proper maintenance is key to long term toy ownership. these are made to last 25 yrs plus-

Just as a note for people considering the swap thats all.

I didnt say the swap was a snap, rather to do the wiring was a snap.

As for the 22r 5 speeds they are very weak, if you use your 5th wisely they can last a very long time. 5th gear was an after thought in these trans. it is located on the end of a shaft outside of a bearing cap....

The v6 trans is what I was refering to and yes it can be bolted up to a 4 cylinder as well. 22RTE belhousing just FYI. if someone would be doing this swap that would be tha way to go. and your looking at around 300,000 miles on the R150 trans before any issues may arise if any. again, proper maintenace is the key here.

Anyone doing this swap would be better off to go to the local pick and pull and pull the pedal assembley as 1 piece (3,4 bolts) cost, 20-25.00. you only have to add the clutch pedal, brackets were built into all of your trucks for a clutch pedal.

the clutch, and disk are inexpensive and required flywheel is as well and can be sourced locally, all of that would be less than a rebuilt trannys torque convertor alone (rebuilds requires use of new torque convertor or no warranty)

a used flywheel runs 25-55- you dont have to have a new one, a new high performance clutch (much better than an OEM) 139-189 depending on performance level you want.

last I checked a good quality rebuild is well over 500, so to say you can get a couple rebuilds for what it would cost to swap to a manual is off base.

The driveshaft doesnt always have to be cut in every case.

I want to convert my 87 4cyl auto to a 5 speed, I have been looking for a 5 speed trans on creglist. I bought a 5 speed for $200 supposed to have come out of a 89 truck with a22re. I cannot prove what model it is, I think it is a w55 (it has the iron plate) . My question is can I use the bell housing and find a trans from a v6 2 wheel drive. What should I be looking for to get a r series. I already have the clutch master and slave, hyd lines. i plan on buying a new flywheel and clutch kit. Any help and advice would be much appreciated.

Jim

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I would prefer a manual. I will definitely wait until the auto dies and seeing as it has 88k and it has a cooler and I replaced all the fluid with dx6 it shouldn't ever go out.

If that's where I'm at though and a manuaal swapp is in the same dollar point as a rebuilt auto illl do it.

This is also where ill throw out there to all aisin auto transmission owners, get rid of that dx3 crap. And put in all dx6 you'll notice it shifting better fast. Much more resistant to heat.

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I would switch out to a manual tranny in a heart beat if I knew that I would be the only driver. I am also a realist and know that my wife (who is a stoke survivor), and my daughters (who plan on traveling with us) will also be driving. The clutch would not last long with those drivers. I wanted a manual but am glad that I ended up buying an auto.

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The 22re and 4speed manual is very rare

And id want the 5 speed manual like described here.

I feel you that low speed parking is easier with an auto but I can handle it.

Where I feel the thing is lacking is the right gear for 65 mph. I think that would save a lot of money. Id also have more grunt for my long term geo metro tow project.

But like I say I think this auto will make 200k and that'll be 10 years easy so it might be irrelevant.

If I have time someday to build a vehicle ill find a 18 foot sunrader 22re and put a 5 speed in it.

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