Totem Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) welp just got back from a Major haul; Mi - In, OH, PA, NJ, NY, CT, MA, NH, ME... learned some things about the rig; some probably very elementary for most in this group but I will share nonetheless: Rig I own: 1986 sunrader 21 ft (rear kitchen & bath; middle dinette. the new axle and hardware continued to hold well; no issues to report. AC compressor was retrofitted to R134A in 2007 by previous owner; all coolant leaked out from no usage while it sat in a barn till this summer. The temps ranged from 73- 96 degrees F outside had my first overheat situation; after shutting down to get gas would not start and instead sounded and alarm with many dash lights on. would wait and let it cool off then would start fine burned 2 quarts of oil over span of the trip (is this normal???) - no leaks noticed that fridge will not run when parked unless < 3 degrees level as measured inside fridge my fridge prefers 12 volt power and must be powered off and back on to switch to LP or 110. fridge quickly drains service battery to below 50% at which point starts flashing red led. if service battery falls below 50% the 12 volt water pump will not work AC in cab wont make it to rest of camper... any suggestions? anyone use 12 volt clip on fans like in a school bus? Stove top burners run great; oven pilot lights but stove itself wont engage and light burner. tried waiting but no luck AC compressor took one tall and 2 short refridgerant cans of R134A and still was not in the "V" band for the rated outside ambient temp of 85 degrees (325 psi). I got too scared to put a 4th can in and left it at 241 psi; blows cold Edited July 11, 2011 by Totem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Aggie Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 You don't say how many miles you went during your two quarts of oil burn. The industry guideline is 1 quart every 1000 miles is acceptable. My view is that that 1 quart every 1500 miles is acceptable. The industry has a lower number as their guideline to reduce their warranty claims. Each engine is different and will burn more or less oil. Sometimes changing oil brand or type can change the amount burned. I've found that on all but one vehicle I changed to Mobil 1 or Rotella T synthetic that oil consumption decreased. Changing the cab A/C back to R12 will lower the temp at the vents an average of 5-6 degrees. You must increase system capacity by 19% for R34 to cool as well as R12. The manufacturers were able to do this when they updated. This still won't be enough to cool the back of the RV though. You simply have to many cubic feet to cool. The only solution I know of would be to run the generator and the rooftop A/C. Pretty much all RV refrigerators need a level surface to run. They can be damaged when operated on an unlevel surface. It's nice to know the 3 degree number though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Dometic in their Manuals say to level to the rather vague 'comfortable to live in' Standard. Norcold actually puts a number: 3 degrees side to side (of the fridge*), 6 degrees front to back (of the fridge). * So 3 degrees, front to back of the motorhome. This is approx. 7" over a 137" wheelbase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I just today checked a fridge on 120 volts 156 watts. Assuming the 12 volt heater is the same wattage that's 13 amps @ 12 volts so that's a pretty good hit . That's ok as long as you are driving but sitting it going to flatten your battery pretty quick because on a hot day it's not going to cycle. Pretty sure you have to light your burners have not seen an older one that is self lighting. Lot of people if they have on board generators will run the coach A/C driving to cool the camper because the truck A/C won't do it. The truck A/C probably needs to be leak checked they are pretty good systems there are many out there that still have the factory R12 in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 Well in that case it was about 1 per 1400 miles. Sounds good then, no one commented on overheat, that normal when 92 out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Aggie Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Your overheat situation confuses me. I'm not real clear on what you mean. My definition of overheat is driving down the road the temperature gauge gets dangerously near the red. Was it cranking after you stopped for gas and just not starting? In this case it could be a vapor lock situation especially if your rig is carbureted. If it was not cranking at all, then it could be a weak/overheated starter or starter solenoid. As they age they may work fine in normal temperatures but not as well in very cold or hot temperatures. If this is identified as the cause, replacement with new parts is the solution. You can also have a corroded, loose or damaged battery cable that can cause similar symptoms. in conclusion, a better description is needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 i wonder if you have a hot starter problem solend clicking see the post on eletrical forem under not tu rning over problematic solend contacks not exspensive not hard to change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 No this is a situation where nothing would happen no clicking nothing except an alarm. Engine temp gage was fine... Middle. Battery and cables new, and this is an efi... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 HOT START - Sounds like the starter. Gets hot and won't engage. OIL BURN - Check your PVC valve, replace / clean. A plugged PVC valve will cause oil to be pushed past rings. On my Alaska trip (11,000 miles) I changed the oil once, burned about 1/2 qt in 5,000 miles. A/C in coach - Ours is the reverse problem, keeping the truck warm when its cold outside. we made a thick curtain that we use at night that separates the truck and coach. Mainly for privacy. We found if the truck heater can't keep the cab warm when we're traveling, we snap that curtain in place. makes a huge difference in temperature and sound. FRIG ANGLE - Sounds about right - I have two of those self adhesive bubble levels, one on the dash and one on the drivers door post. The main one I use is the drivers door post as its the front/back level. I try and move back and forth and find a good place. It seems like each notch on my level is about 1 inch of front/back. If I can't get a level spot, I then use the notches to tell me how many legos I need. i.e. if its 3 notches from level, I put three legos under the front tires (or rear tires) and BAM, I'm level. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Aggie Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I would be most suspect of the starter or starter solenoid. If you can duplicate the problem somewhere that you have a multimeter you can put the meter on the battery and the starter solenoid while someone turns the key to the on position. You can see how much voltage you have at each location and look for a voltage drop. There is probably something worn that is creating a large resistance when hot that is eating up your voltage and causing the no start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Next time it does this, reach under there and wack the starter with a hammer and see if that frees it up. Really, hit it with a hammer. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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