willy Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 I'm wondering if someone could tell me where the efi filter is located on a 86 winnabago, also is there a easy electrical test for the overdrive solinoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 You can find the 1985 FSM here: https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B_1LbTxQDmlVYmRkZTE2YjItODUzYS00NDUxLTk0ODUtYTYxYjZiYjk4ZTA5&hl=en Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 You'll love it, it might be one of the most exasperating things you'll ever try to do. It is under the intake manifold above the starter. The O/D solenoid is at the rear of the transmission it has one electrical connection warm the engine shut it off turn on the key engine does not have to be on be sure the O/D is selected (light off) disconnect the electrical connection to the O/D solenoid and reconnect it you should then hear a "click". If it does not check to see if there is power to the wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyheymymy Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 I changed my fuel filter for the first time back in January. Maineah ain't lying. It's not easy. After searching around high and low on the Internet for the best directions, I went with these ones. My amended notes are in brackets. 1. take off the gas cap 2. jack up the truck high on the passenger front and put it on a jackstand, 3. remove the passenger side tire 4. remove the access plate on the inner fender 5. locate the fuel filter. It is mounted on the block below the intake and above the starter. (Buy the filter first, or look at one in an on-line parts catalog so you know what it looks like). Remove the front fuel line. I think it takes a 17mm socket. Do not remove rear fuel line. (I disagree with this. I tried NOT removing the line, but my filter was so old I couldn't get enough torque if I didn't remove the rear fuel line while the fuel filter was still bolted in place). 6. remove the mounting bolts, upper and lower (10mm I think, maybe 12mm). Swivel joints incorporated into either your socket extension or you personal anatomy help significantly. 7. pull the fuel filter out between the fender and frame and remove the rear fuel line. Trust me, this saves a ton of grief of trying to reach in and remove the rear fuel line. (Again, I'd do this before removing the mounting bolts, but that's just me). 8. remove the filter while trying to hold it somewhat level. It will have gas in it and will spill all over 9. remove plug(s) from new filter 10. install rear fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets at the banjo fitting 11. mount fuel filter on block 12. install front fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets. When installing the fuel lines make sure in both instances to ensure the gaskets are still in place when you put the banjo fitting on the filter. 13. make sure fuel line bolts are snug. Use an opened end wrench to hold the filter ends when tightening so as not to rip the filter 14. fire up the truck and check for leaks. It will take a bit of extra cranking to get it started since the fuel system has a pocket of air in it. 15. button everything back up, put on the tire, drop it on the ground and pat yourself on the back. You just beat the crap out of your knuckles, upset the neighbors, emabarrassed your wife, taught your kids and all the kids in the neighborhood all sorts of new vocabulary words to use on the playground and you saved yourself a trip to the mechanic and $35-40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willy Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 You can find the 1985 FSM here: https://docs.google....iYjk4ZTA5&hl=en thanks for service manual download, this will be very helpful since this is my first toyota. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willy Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 I changed my fuel filter for the first time back in January. Maineah ain't lying. It's not easy. After searching around high and low on the Internet for the best directions, I went with these ones. My amended notes are in brackets. 1. take off the gas cap 2. jack up the truck high on the passenger front and put it on a jackstand, 3. remove the passenger side tire 4. remove the access plate on the inner fender 5. locate the fuel filter. It is mounted on the block below the intake and above the starter. (Buy the filter first, or look at one in an on-line parts catalog so you know what it looks like). Remove the front fuel line. I think it takes a 17mm socket. Do not remove rear fuel line. (I disagree with this. I tried NOT removing the line, but my filter was so old I couldn't get enough torque if I didn't remove the rear fuel line while the fuel filter was still bolted in place). 6. remove the mounting bolts, upper and lower (10mm I think, maybe 12mm). Swivel joints incorporated into either your socket extension or you personal anatomy help significantly. 7. pull the fuel filter out between the fender and frame and remove the rear fuel line. Trust me, this saves a ton of grief of trying to reach in and remove the rear fuel line. (Again, I'd do this before removing the mounting bolts, but that's just me). 8. remove the filter while trying to hold it somewhat level. It will have gas in it and will spill all over 9. remove plug(s) from new filter 10. install rear fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets at the banjo fitting 11. mount fuel filter on block 12. install front fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets. When installing the fuel lines make sure in both instances to ensure the gaskets are still in place when you put the banjo fitting on the filter. 13. make sure fuel line bolts are snug. Use an opened end wrench to hold the filter ends when tightening so as not to rip the filter 14. fire up the truck and check for leaks. It will take a bit of extra cranking to get it started since the fuel system has a pocket of air in it. 15. button everything back up, put on the tire, drop it on the ground and pat yourself on the back. You just beat the crap out of your knuckles, upset the neighbors, emabarrassed your wife, taught your kids and all the kids in the neighborhood all sorts of new vocabulary words to use on the playground and you saved yourself a trip to the mechanic and $35-40 thanks for the detailed filter replacement directions, I don't think I would have ever found it other wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elderthewelder Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 thanks for the detailed filter replacement directions, I don't think I would have ever found it other wise. Why Toyota put the filter under the air intake is beyond me, alot of people relocate it to the fender by either making a bracket that filter will bolt to and bolting or welding bracket to fender, or just plain bolting filter to fender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willy Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 <br />Why Toyota put the filter under the air intake is beyond me, alot of people relocate it to the fender by either making a bracket that filter will bolt to and bolting or welding bracket to fender, or just plain bolting filter to fender<br /><br /><br /><br />I thought about doing thatand it is a good idea but mechanic friend of mine showed up and finished the job for me, so the new filter is in place and no leaks. I must say this is the most helpfull web site, thanks again to Derek, maineah, and heyheymymy. One word of caution for someone doing this job, you may want to have a box of bandaids. I hope some day I may be able to help someone with a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robertr Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 I would like to know what temp reading owners are getting on their temp gage on the 22RE 2.4 cyl Toyota motorhome? Mine runs 75 to 80 % of gage.............too hot for me..............going up a hill it might be a problem. Mine is an automatic with EFI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 On a cold day cruising, about 1/3. On a warm day 1/2 cruising on a hot day with AC running, it sits around 3/4. On a warm day, climbing up a long (10 miles) incline in first gear at 30 mph, about 2/3. The hottest I've seen mine; sitting (not moving) on I-80 for an hour with AC running, Outside air temperature was 101 Deg F. about 1 needle width below the top white line (still in the white). I turned off the AC and it dropped to about 3/4. As long as it stays in the white are, you should be good. Make sure you have a 180 Deg Thermostat, These normally fail OPEN, but their cheep enough to replace every couple years (OEM) John Mc 88Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 I had my radiator rebuilt last Spring. New core and new top tank. On the hottest dayslast Summer, steep hils and all, the needle barely gets to half way on the dial. With the air conditioner on. They did a great job! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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