heyheymymy

I changed my fuel filter for the first time back in January. Maineah ain't lying. It's not easy. After searching around high and low on the Internet for the best directions, I went with these ones. My amended notes are in brackets. 1. take off the gas cap 2. jack up the truck high on the passenger front and put it on a jackstand, 3. remove the passenger side tire 4. remove the access plate on the inner fender 5. locate the fuel filter. It is mounted on the block below the intake and above the starter. (Buy the filter first, or look at one in an on-line parts catalog so you know what it looks like). Remove the front fuel line. I think it takes a 17mm socket. Do not remove rear fuel line. (I disagree with this. I tried NOT removing the line, but my filter was so old I couldn't get enough torque if I didn't remove the rear fuel line while the fuel filter was still bolted in place). 6. remove the mounting bolts, upper and lower (10mm I think, maybe 12mm). Swivel joints incorporated into either your socket extension or you personal anatomy help significantly. 7. pull the fuel filter out between the fender and frame and remove the rear fuel line. Trust me, this saves a ton of grief of trying to reach in and remove the rear fuel line. (Again, I'd do this before removing the mounting bolts, but that's just me). 8. remove the filter while trying to hold it somewhat level. It will have gas in it and will spill all over 9. remove plug(s) from new filter 10. install rear fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets at the banjo fitting 11. mount fuel filter on block 12. install front fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets. When installing the fuel lines make sure in both instances to ensure the gaskets are still in place when you put the banjo fitting on the filter. 13. make sure fuel line bolts are snug. Use an opened end wrench to hold the filter ends when tightening so as not to rip the filter 14. fire up the truck and check for leaks. It will take a bit of extra cranking to get it started since the fuel system has a pocket of air in it. 15. button everything back up, put on the tire, drop it on the ground and pat yourself on the back. You just beat the crap out of your knuckles, upset the neighbors, emabarrassed your wife, taught your kids and all the kids in the neighborhood all sorts of new vocabulary words to use on the playground and you saved yourself a trip to the mechanic and $35-40

Thanks a lot for the help, guys. It's good to know that I shouldn't have to pay the ridiculous amount quoted by the mechanic. I've got the RV listed 'as is', noting the things it needs to pass inspection. If nobody picks it up in the next week or so then I'll start buying the necessary parts and finding a reasonably priced place to do the exhaust work. Thanks again.

He didn't, Derek. Good point. I'll call him up see if he'll give them to me.

Thanks, wistoy. That's great to know. I just got the official quote from the shop and they want to charge $860.50 (before 13% tax) just to do the pads and rotors. The guy admitted that that was a ridiculous price, but he said the only place he could find pads and rotors was directly from Toyota. As for the tail pipe, he said it had been discontinued and they would have to make one. I can only imagine how much that would cost. He said what I should do is try and get part numbers from people who've done the job themselves so that he could try and source them that way. Or he said if I got the parts myself they'd install them. This is the first I've dealt with this place, and the guy seemed pretty honest. He admitted that the price he quoted me was ridiculously high. I'd be eternally grateful to anyone on here that could suggest where I could find a decent price on pads, rotors and a tail pipe for an '86. Oh, and to make matters more complicated, I'm in Canada.

So, unfortunately I've got to sell my Toy. I wanted to sell it with a safety certificate (I don't know what you folks call that in the U.S.) so that the buyer could pick it up and hit the road without having to worry about fixing anything up. There's really only one place around here that does safety inspections on RVs, so I took the morning off of work today and took the Toy in. It failed the safety inspection. The mechanic says it needs: - front rotors - front brake pads - a new tail pipe (this I knew already) - a crack welded on the exhaust pipe in front (engine side) of the muffler The guy is going to call me with an estimate, but he said off the top of his head he figured it would cost between $750 and $1000. That seems high to me, but then I've only had the Toy for about a year and this is the first brake or exhaust work I've needed. Is that price high? Should I try and get a second opinion somewhere?

Thanks for the tips everyone. I took out the battery, cleaned the terminals, put the battery back in and then for some reason it started. I don't get it. The terminals weren't even dirty. So maybe I just lucked out and the starter kicked back in again. The copper contacts being worn out inside the solenoid makes the most sense. I looked up how to do it and seems easy enough. If the problem comes up again I'll try it out. Thanks, everyone.

Hey Derek, Thanks for the suggestions. Yep, the dash lights come on as they should. I do hear the solenoid click when I turn the key to 'Start'. I've tried shifting out of park and then back, but there was no change. I'll try and track someone down to tap on the starter for me.

Just finished 6 months. Loved it.

Hey folks, Just got back form a 4000 mile trip. Had no problems the whole way. I'm back in Canada now visiting some family and all of the sudden my Toy won't start. Won't even turn over. It's an automatic '86 with the 22RE EFI. It's been parked on a little decline (see my profile picture for the grade) and it's been pretty rainy the last few days. I'm wondering, could something have gotten wet? It's been parked like this for a couple of weeks and I've been starting it every couple of days. Never had a problem until today. It's always started beautifully on the first crank since I bought it. The battery is fine. Lots of juice. Still, I tried a boost and that didn't work. Sounds like the starter or starter solenoid to me, but I'm not all that knowledgeable. Any suggestions?

Good to know. Thanks very much.

Hey folks, Yesterday I was about to top up the power steering fluid in my Toy for the first time, and just to be safe I checked the Haynes manual to see what it recommended. It said Dextron II ATF, which I thought was a transmission fluid. Is this what the Toys use? I've got an automatic '86 22RE in mine. I asked the guy at the local auto parts shop and he wondered if maybe it was a misprint in the Haynes?

Thanks guys. I'll read a bit about South Padre and send a PM to vtchris.

For what it's worth, I've got a little Garmin Nuvi 255W that I bought refurbished for $70 and it's done me well south from Toronto, Canada all the way to Mississippi so far without a hiccup. I've got it mounted on the windshield with the suction mount (which was included) and haven't had any problems with interference due to the overhanging sleeping area.

Hi folks, I've been full-timing in my Toy for a few weeks now, slowly making my way south for the winter. I'm wondering if anyone can recommend some good RV parks in Mississippi, Tennessee or Louisiana for me to spend a few weeks at before it gets below freezing at night? The cheaper the better, of course. Showers would be great. Other than that, rustic is just fine by me. Also looking for some place in southern Texas for later in the winter, if anyone can recommend any. Thanks! Paul

I don't have any additional advice, seeing as this is my first winter with my new Toy. Just wanted to tell you that you've got a beautiful rig. And that you got it for one heck of a price!