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Harbor Freight 45 watt solar panels?


diana

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http://www.harborfre...-kit-90599.html

anyone using these?

i have someone who wants to install this set on the RV roof (fyi, i want them flat, flush, tho know it is a real disadvantage for solar collection, is a real advantage for not falling off the roof while rotating them). he'd hook'em up to 2 smaller-sized new gel batteries (do not know capacity yet that he has in mind) in line with coach battery under the hood. (not the separate starter battery).

all i want is to be able to boon dock in summer without a flashlight (!), pump a little water, keep my laptop and cell charged, and, unlikely, maybe run the heater a bit. i know solar's all about crunching the numbers (power in/power out. was off the grid in my cabin for years), but in my little Toyota RV there is no way to come close to assessing, say, days camping, sun angles, hours spent reading, etc., so ball-parking is my method of choice.

any advice?

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I have one of these exact panel systems, it works fine, they are mounted flat using the roof rack. Since I got this Toyota in November and have just been fixing it up so far, I have not been out living with this system to know just what it will do. The control panel has a nice LED voltage readout & it seems to keep the cabin battery @ 13.7 volts.

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I would suggest getting another unit. Kyocera panels are currently very cheap. Do a search.

Also the charge regulator on the harbor freight is poor. You want one with PVM ability.

As for watts 50 min 120 or so if you want TV etc.

If you decide on the harbor freight make sure to use a coupon.

Good luck.

Henry

I have one of these exact panel systems, it works fine, they are mounted flat using the roof rack. Since I got this Toyota in November and have just been fixing it up so far, I have not been out living with this system to know just what it will do. The control panel has a nice LED voltage readout & it seems to keep the cabin battery @ 13.7 volts.

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The more watts the better. Because of the flat angle, maybe some overcast sky, a tree limb throwing a shadow it all ads up to a considerable degradation in output. You don't have much real estate on the roof, so finding panels with higher output in relatively the same footprint is always a better option. But they cost more. The $230 price is attractive but might not be cost effective. Look around on the net and compare apples to apples. I found a sharp 130 watt panel for 435. You need to do a roof survey also. Make sure there is room for what ever you choose. Visualizing in the head does not work. Numbers on paper does work. I know someone who bought a 120 watt panel. He forgot about the vents and A/C unit. There was no place to put the panel. The company took it back but it cost him to send it back. So map out your roof!

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The 45 watt harbor freight solar system seem to be huge for 45 watts and 3 panels are a lot to mount. I am going to install a system in the summer. I am an electrician and I am taking a 45 hour class on Solar Systems at the union hall. Hopefully I will be able to answer any questions when I am done with the class.

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  • 2 months later...

I'm new here, but although new to a Sunrader, I've lived with a solar system since the late 1980's. I'll no doubt need some help now and then with the Toyota/Sunrader, but can probably answer some questions about solar systems.

The Harbor Freight panels are amorphous panels, which are less efficient (take more space for the same output) but do better with shade across them. I've rigged my small trailer with a 40 watt panel from Solar Blvd. They have great prices and some of my friends have also ordered from them. I just bought a Sunrader 180RD and it is going to get a 100 Watt Solar Cynergy panel which is 48.98 x 26.57 x 1.58. They have it for $214, which is just over $2 a watt! My first system, back in 1988 cost $7.50 a watt, and dollars were worth a lot more then!

I've been using Morningstar controllers with good results. Their SS10 is good for 10 amps @12 volts and is about $45. The 100 watt panel puts out roughly 6 amps, so if you are likely to add more panels, you might want to get a larger controller, rather than having to buy a 2nd one down the line.

Good batteries, true deep cycle type are well worth the extra cost. RV/Marine batteries are really a hybrid between deep cycle and starting. A starting battery is the worst choice. They are designed for a large amp draw for a very short time. They have lots of thin plates and will wear out quickly if cycled much below 90% charge over and over. They are designed for "float" service, meaning a small drop in power to start a car, then floating at the full charge rate most the time.

True deep cycle batteries have thick plates, although fewer. They are good for modest loads, cycling down to around 40-50% charge, several hundred times. I'm using a fully sealed Sun Xtender AGM type 120 AH battery, which is around $280. This should last me 8-10 years, never needs water added, and needs minimal venting.

Steve

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  • 1 year later...

solarblvd has the Kyocera 130 watt 12 volt solar panel for just 175!!

subscribe to their email list and they have smokin deals all the time.

link to it-

http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Panels-&-Systems-Individual-Solar-Panels-100---170-Watt-%288%29/c1_25_42/p50/Kyocera-130-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Panel.-KC130GT-2/product_info.html

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