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Battery isolator and Isolation relays...both?


JohnW

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1979 Sunrader....while reworking the wiring and to be honest, figuring the whole thing out, it appears that I have both a battery isolator and a battery relay. The Isolator does not appear to be used in it's original capacity and looks like it is used as a bus to connect some wires, (from generator I think)

What is the concesus, isolator or isolation relay.

I read a nice article here...

http://www.neon-john.com/RV/Electrical/rv_battery_isolation_relays.htm

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Both achieve the same thing they separate the batteries. There is merit to both types the relay type is by far the simplest very little wiring changes and it’s either on or off. It does have moving parts that can fail however no matter what goes wrong with it your truck battery will still charge. The solid state isolators have no moving parts and most likely will work for ever provided nothing is short circuited or batteries put in backwards. However installation is not exactly straight forward lot of cutting and splicing and they due use current in their operation typically a voltage drop of about .7 volts. They can fail and your truck battery will not charge. I prefer the relay type because of its simplicity. They are cheaper and readily available at most parts stores and far easier to install.

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Thanks! I purchased a new relay and am going to disconnect the isolator. It appears that the isolator was not even hooked up properly as there is no lead from he alternator.

I am restoring this little 1979 gem and have completed the demolition phase and now on to the rebuild. I am taking a lot of pictures and will post them on a website I have dedicated to the project. This site has really helped me get a lot of information for a first time owner. Its like rebuilding a house and a car, some days I feel like being a mechanic others, a homeowner.

-John

Edited by JohnW
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Sounds like it with out an alternator hook up there is not much it can do for charging your batteries. Make sure you relay is continuous duty a ford starter relay will cook in short order although it looks the same. The solid state isolators are a bit of a mystery maybe some one tried it and could not get it going. A dead give away would only be 3 terminals they will not work on a Toyota. Good luck on your rebuild!

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  • 6 months later...

1979 Sunrader....while reworking the wiring and to be honest, figuring the whole thing out, it appears that I have both a battery isolator and a battery relay. The Isolator does not appear to be used in it's original capacity and looks like it is used as a bus to connect some wires, (from generator I think)

What is the concesus, isolator or isolation relay.

I read a nice article here...

http://www.neon-john...tion_relays.htm

on 92 itasca spirit when 110v power is detected the power converter takes the cabin batter off line and charges it (isolator?) and when the toyota engine is running the solenoid allows the toyota alternator charge both batteries.

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on 92 itasca spirit when 110v power is detected the power converter takes the cabin batter off line and charges it (isolator?) and when the toyota engine is running the solenoid allows the toyota alternator charge both batteries.

Well sort of more like a transfer switch. The relay disconnects the coach battery when it's powered from the grid and the converter makes the 12 volt coach power. There are two different circuts one for charging and another for 12 volt power in the older converters. An isolator separates the coach and truck batteries while the truck is not running it can be a solenoid (relay) type or a solid state type isolator.

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  • 1 month later...

Problem: The new alternator in our beloved '86 Itasca charges the truck battery, but not the house battery.

The original owner's manual tells me there is a three way switch in the truck cab. If my understanding is correct, the switch is designed to choose between the truck battery and/ or the house battery or to use the house battery to start the truck engine, if the truck battery is weak.

I have... SEARCHED the cab to find the switch, can't find it... ...hired folks with multimeters to diagnose the problem, they say the wiring is fine but no luck getting both batteries to charge..... replaced the solenoid/relay under the hood,no result... and am sick of exchanging the batteries to keep each fresh.

There is a finned aluminum looking "isolator" mounted on the wheel well near the new relay ... could that be the problem?

Would appreciate any insights.

Many thanks, in advance, Teahouse

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Yes. Pictures maybe. I wonder if they tried to "fix" the problem by trying a different isolator. Do you get a pretty good click from the relay when you turn on the key? A solid state isolator can go bad and not charge one or the other batteries but if they know what they are doing it's easy to check.

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