McShank Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Shortly after I bought my '88 Sunrader I did the 7300ru 55 amp upgrade. I never checked the performance with a digital voltage meter but the lights got brighter whenever I plugged in. I have recently replaced my single Costo deep cycle with two Trojan T150's so I can do some dry camping and also put in a +/- 30 amp ammeter, but the charger never brings the voltage past 12.4v (about 75%) and it stops showing any + amperage; keeping it plugged in should fill the batteries and keep them at a float charge of 13.5v. I have followed their troubleshooting guide which tells me to check the voltage coming in with the "polarity fuses" removed and it is producing 13.7v as its supposed to, but with the polarity fuses replaced and the system fully connected it stays at 12.4v. Has anyone experienced this problem? I have about two weeks left on warranty and would love any input. Seamus McShank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I have the 45 amp model and it runs at 13.7 float. Are you measuring the voltage at the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McShank Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Thanks Greg, The 12.4v reading is directly from the batteries and the same voltage reading comes off the distribution panel. I used an external charger to top off, let it rest for 24 hours and got 12.8v reading, then ran the batteries down to about 12.1v, replugged the Parralax and watched it put amperage and voltage back in but it still stopped at 12.4v. I suspect this might have never worked properly and I thought the Costco battery was weak. Something doesn't seem right so this weekend I am going to pull the Parralax and send it in with a full description of my problem. I would rather have this working properly than mess with an external charger. Seamus McShank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Thanks Greg, The 12.4v reading is directly from the batteries and the same voltage reading comes off the distribution panel. I used an external charger to top off, let it rest for 24 hours and got 12.8v reading, then ran the batteries down to about 12.1v, replugged the Parralax and watched it put amperage and voltage back in but it still stopped at 12.4v. I suspect this might have never worked properly and I thought the Costco battery was weak. Something doesn't seem right so this weekend I am going to pull the Parralax and send it in with a full description of my problem. I would rather have this working properly than mess with an external charger. Seamus McShank 12.4 is a lot less then a charged battery most of the 3 stage chargers start high often in excess of 14+ volts and slowly come down to a float charge. 12.4 is only about an 80% charge a full charge will be 12.7 so that means that a charger has to have a greater voltage then 12.7 usually around 13.2 just to maintain a full state of charge. As far as an amp meter in a charging situation it probably won't show you much but a volt meter will tell you all you need to know. You are doing the right thing there is some thing wrong with the charger you have proven that, the battery is fine as it will hold a 12.8 volt charge and the system if fine because it is not discharging the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Thanks Greg, The 12.4v reading is directly from the batteries and the same voltage reading comes off the distribution panel. I used an external charger to top off, let it rest for 24 hours and got 12.8v reading, then ran the batteries down to about 12.1v, replugged the Parralax and watched it put amperage and voltage back in but it still stopped at 12.4v. I suspect this might have never worked properly and I thought the Costco battery was weak. Something doesn't seem right so this weekend I am going to pull the Parralax and send it in with a full description of my problem. I would rather have this working properly than mess with an external charger. Seamus McShank Test it with the battery disconnected from the circuit. Let us know what you see for a volt reading. It should be 13.8 + or -. Take your reading on / at the fuse panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Test it with the battery disconnected from the circuit. Let us know what you see for a volt reading. It should be 13.8 + or -. Take your reading on / at the fuse panel. It may have to be loaded Greg they are temp and current tracking switchers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McShank Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 I decided to remove the charger and send it in to their service center and would have expected them to find some component faulty but once I had out in the open I discovered that there are slots for two fuses on one end and one was missing. I put one in and amps began to flow and the float voltage went up to 13.6 and has stayed there. I guess I paid attention to switching all the wires on the circuit board and never noticed the charger was missing that fuse. Chalk this one up to "installer error". Seamus McShank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iowacamper Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Question.Is the upgrade install fairly easy.Does a person just move a wire from old converter board to the new converter board and install in old converter opening?Or is there a little retrofiting that has to be done?Looked for a past thread on subject but none showed up.Thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McShank Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 Question.Is the upgrade install fairly easy.Does a person just move a wire from old converter board to the new converter board and install in old converter opening?Or is there a little retrofiting that has to be done?Looked for a past thread on subject but none showed up.Thanks all. The installation is just that simple. You can find step-by-step with pictures at: www.bestconverter.com/Magnetek-63007300-Upgrade-_ep_8-1.html long address but worth the look. In my case the charger came with fuses attached, I didn't notice it had been missing one. McShank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iowacamper Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Thanks,good site.Seems like a good price as well.I see you used the 55 Amp and Greg used the 45 Amp.What would be the advantage/disadvantage between them other than the power output.I will never run computers or things like that.Want to replace my battery boiler yet before the snow flies here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Thanks,good site.Seems like a good price as well.I see you used the 55 Amp and Greg used the 45 Amp.What would be the advantage/disadvantage between them other than the power output.I will never run computers or things like that.Want to replace my battery boiler yet before the snow flies here. About the only thing you would gain is a little faster battery charge and if you have a generator it would be a plus. If you used every thing in your camper at the same time you would never draw 55 amps or 45 amps for that matter. If it's only a few bucks more go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Here is a link to the brochure for the one I installed http://www.parallaxp...7300/7300RU.pdf 45 amp model. I see now that they have one with a timer, not sure what that is. And another link with more tech info. The 55 amp model that I saw had LED's on the fuse panel. Here is a cut and paste regarding the charging technology in these units. My friend has a "smart charge controller" that plugs into his converter system. Why hasn't Parallax offered a "smart" charger option for my unit. Applies to 500,6700,7100,7300,and 7400 series Converter/Chargers. The issue we have with "smart charger technology" (when used in an RV) lies more with the application of the technology than the technology itself. In a typical RV 12 volt electrical system, the converter/charger and the battery or battery bank is connected in parallel with the rest of the 12 volt distribution system. In "parallel" means where the charging source (converter/charger) positive and negative output is electrically connected to both the battery bank positive and negative, and the 12-volt distribution system positive and negative, at the same time. The voltage output of the converter "smart charger" is based on a "detected" battery voltage. The converter "smart charger" claims to "monitor" and respond to battery condition while connected to the entire 12 volt system. Unless the charging source (converter) has a separate or isolated charging output, we do not agree that a converter or charger can effectively differentiate requirements of the batteries from other 12 volt loads while simultaneously connected to the rest of the 12 volt distribution system in the RV. Detected use or voltage change on the RV 12-volt load system (i.e. lights, pumps, etc being turned on) generally keeps these devices at a 13.6 -13.8 "float" voltage. This raises the question whether any real additional benefit is being provided to the battery bank unless the coach remains in a "non-use" storage condition. If a converter "smart charger" is only connected to the battery bank and can therefore monitor only battery voltage or current, and is not also connected "in parallel" with the 12 volt distribution system, we have no problem with the application of "smart charger technology". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 After reading up on 12 volt power in the different threads, I decided to order the 55amp upgrade for my 6300. $215 and free shipping. I'm still under my "Fix and Upgrade" budget so I also ordered a 1600 watt inverter (Whistler pro 1600 from TigerDirect) and remote switch (power for microwave and coffeepot). I'll install the inverter under the seat beside the battery and make/install another "Inverter Power Outlet" above the frig. The microwave will sit on the frig and plug into the Inverter outlet. AND - I found a nice under counter TV/DVD/AM/FM from Coby: http://www.amazon.com/Coby-KTFDVD1093-10-2-Inch-Under-Cabinet/dp/B0013O80NQ This unit can be powered directly from a 12 volt source (hence the need for clean/filtered DC power) I think the only major spending left is a new blower motor for the furnace. (SSSQQQUUUUEEELLLL) (not to bad yet, only at startup and shutdown) John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 If you haven't bought your TV yet, you might want to check FleaBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 I looked, didn't see anything. Also, be careful if your buying a TV, make sure it has a digital tuner. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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