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Well I bought a sunrader and now come the questions


pamz

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I bought an 86 sunrader and know nothing about rvs. Can anyone direct me to a good source of basic rv functioning?

I have tons of questions but will start with basic cleaning questions. It seems that someone put a clear coat of something on it along time ago and it is wearing off in flakes. What is the best way to remove this so that I can get down to cleaning the exterior and is there a good product to clean and wax(?) the fiberglasss with once i get all the clearcoat off?

Thanks

Pam

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Hey Sunrader Sis! Welcome to the forum!!!!

I've heard several on the site recommend 3M Marine fiberglass restorer and wax http://www.shop3m.com/60980106938.html . (I imagine most marine products would work once you sluff off that scaley stuff....The attached link has all kinds of 3M fiberglass goodies. I'll be trying the restorer out on Sadie as soon as I get a decently cool day off.)

You know that you'll have to post pictures of your new toy and your progress.

Get a copy of Bob Livingston's Time Life RV Repair and Maintenance Guide (bought mine used here>

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=s...vingston%27s+rv

and a Chilton's for an 86 Toyota Pickup like here> http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=s...4+toyota+pickup

and this should be a good start to your toy library. If you need copies of manuals for specific things, like your fridge, or water pump, or toilet....just holler and someone here will point you in the right direction, (maye even fax/email you a copy.) The toy gurus on this site are amazing. I've learned so much by just reading past posts. (Parusing past posts will keep you busy until your RV and Chilton' manuals arrive in the mail, oh, and so will polishing and fixing up your toy :) )

Don't forget to keep us posted on your projects.

shanda

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Buy some cut polish and try that, it wont hurt anything, you can use it on a power buffer see if that works.

plan b try alcohol (on the FG only) see if that will cut the clear coat.

in a spot that you won't see

plan c try Paint thinner,

plan d then paint remover

plan e then acetone, but be very careful with acetone because it is a solvent for fiberglass. work in small areas and wipe it on with a dampened cloth & wipe it right off. experiment in an area that wont show.

You might even try cooking oil smear the oil on then rub back and forth with your hand or finger.

1500 grit wet sanding by hand may work, but it will be lots of work, you bring it back to a shine with cut polish then polish.

If it has made a chemical bond with the fiberglass, the only two things that will work are an abrasive - cut polish or something a bit more aggressive, 1500 grit or possibly even valve lapping compound, or acetone. You are much safer with cut polish.

Acetone is horrible stuff, very flammable, I once worked with a young man who was inside a fiberglass yacht when acetone fumes ignited, he was very lucky to get out, and is scarred for life.

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Hey Sunrader Sis! Welcome to the forum!!!!

I've heard several on the site recommend 3M Marine fiberglass restorer and wax http://www.shop3m.com/60980106938.html . (I imagine most marine products would work once you sluff off that scaley stuff....The attached link has all kinds of 3M fiberglass goodies. I'll be trying the restorer out on Sadie as soon as I get a decently cool day off.)

You know that you'll have to post pictures of your new toy and your progress.

Get a copy of Bob Livingston's Time Life RV Repair and Maintenance Guide (bought mine used here>

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=s...vingston%27s+rv

and a Chilton's for an 86 Toyota Pickup like here> http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=s...4+toyota+pickup

and this should be a good start to your toy library. If you need copies of manuals for specific things, like your fridge, or water pump, or toilet....just holler and someone here will point you in the right direction, (maye even fax/email you a copy.) The toy gurus on this site are amazing. I've learned so much by just reading past posts. (Parusing past posts will keep you busy until your RV and Chilton' manuals arrive in the mail, oh, and so will polishing and fixing up your toy :) )

Don't forget to keep us posted on your projects.

shanda

hi Shanda

i'm so glad you responded as i've already read many of your posts and looked at the pics of sadie.....looks great inside and out! i tried to email you prior to buying as i had questions about owning and maintening an rv by myself but maybe it never got through to you.

i will get the rv repair and maintenence book..it sounds like just what i need. and i will post pics too!

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Buy some cut polish and try that, it wont hurt anything, you can use it on a power buffer see if that works.

plan b try alcohol (on the FG only) see if that will cut the clear coat.

in a spot that you won't see

plan c try Paint thinner,

plan d then paint remover

plan e then acetone, but be very careful with acetone because it is a solvent for fiberglass. work in small areas and wipe it on with a dampened cloth & wipe it right off. experiment in an area that wont show.

You might even try cooking oil smear the oil on then rub back and forth with your hand or finger.

1500 grit wet sanding by hand may work, but it will be lots of work, you bring it back to a shine with cut polish then polish.

If it has made a chemical bond with the fiberglass, the only two things that will work are an abrasive - cut polish or something a bit more aggressive, 1500 grit or possibly even valve lapping compound, or acetone. You are much safer with cut polish.

Acetone is horrible stuff, very flammable, I once worked with a young man who was inside a fiberglass yacht when acetone fumes ignited, he was very lucky to get out, and is scarred for life.

lol yeah i'm currently useing 1000 grit sand paper and have only a small spot done and my back arms and neck are killing me!!! was in a frenzy yesterday to find an easier way. so thanks for your suggestions. i will work my way through them with the exception of maybe the acetone as i have enough problems without possible scarring myself for life!

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Might be a good job for a teenager to make a little summer spending money!

Most of these campers have pretty thick gel coats and it takes a lot to sand past this to the raw fiberglass. If this clear coat is really bad, I might suggest wet sanding with 400 or even 320! (with a rubber block of course) then graduate to 1000 and finally a buffer and compound. Basically the job of a paint shop! :) Maybe try a small area first.

You could always scuff up the surface and then go the custom airbrush or shandamac artistic route. :ThumbUp:

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Might be a good job for a teenager to make a little summer spending money!

:ThumbUp:

Better yet, we could get Pam to ice up the Pacifico, and we could have us a rip roarin' Sand,Wax, and Buff Party. :rolleyes:

A friend of mine used a vibrating (sheet) sander with fine grit paper on his boat. He said those are easier to control than belt or orbital sanders (no gouging). He did not recommend re applying clear coat, just marine wax and regular maintenance.

SunSis P, I'm still learning all the tips and tricks of this forum, and I'm pretty new to the RVing thing myself. Would love to hear about anything you learn as you go along too. Email me directly at smcdonald2@allstate.com anytime.

shanda

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

I've just finished using Poli Glow on my '87 Sunrader and the fiberglass shines like new.  It isn't for gelcoats that can be easily rubbed out and waxed. You MUST scrub the entire surface with a scotch brite pad and their cleaning prep first. Then the Poli Glow is applied like Mop n Glow (this stuff is probably similar with some UV blockers added). I did my home, roof and all, in 3 days. Next year just do a good washing and put on 2 coats.

http://www.poliglow-int.com/

It was promoted for restoring old fiberglass boats and has been around for a while. Seems to be a bit of a war going on between some who hate it and others who swear by it. It was tested by a couple of boating magazines with good results. I belive if you skimp on the prep work you willl have a disaster.

I'm very satisfied!

QUOTE (nibs @ Aug 11 2009, 10:02 PM) Buy some cut polish and try that, it wont hurt anything, you can use it on a power buffer see if that works.

plan b try alcohol (on the FG only) see if that will cut the clear coat.

in a spot that you won't see

plan c try Paint thinner,

plan d then paint remover

plan e then acetone, but be very careful with acetone because it is a solvent for fiberglass. work in small areas and wipe it on with a dampened cloth & wipe it right off. experiment in an area that wont show.

You might even try cooking oil smear the oil on then rub back and forth with your hand or finger.

1500 grit wet sanding by hand may work, but it will be lots of work, you bring it back to a shine with cut polish then polish.

If it has made a chemical bond with the fiberglass, the only two things that will work are an abrasive - cut polish or something a bit more aggressive, 1500 grit or possibly even valve lapping compound, or acetone. You are much safer with cut polish.

Acetone is horrible stuff, very flammable, I once worked with a young man who was inside a fiberglass yacht when acetone fumes ignited, he was very lucky to get out, and is scarred for life.

lol yeah i'm currently useing 1000 grit sand paper and have only a small spot done and my back arms and neck are killing me!!!  was in a frenzy yesterday to find an easier way.  so thanks for your suggestions.  i will work my way through them with the exception of maybe the acetone as i have enough problems without possible scarring myself for life!

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Sounds to me like someone sprayed it with 2 part automotive clear coat.

What idiot would do that! I have had to remove that from boats. Looks great long enough to sell it and then it flakes off horribly every time.

I don't know of any easy way to get it off. On anything else but fiberglass, I would use aircraft remover.

It seems however, that they make a non-aerosol version specifically for fiberglass. might be worth a shot.

http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=82&prodid=113

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Ya clear coats are meant to go on top of special flat paint designed for clear coats. Clear coating a fiberglass gel coat doesn't seem the best move.

The poliglow looks interesting. It must be some kind of penetrating oil based product? Those work well if you keep applying them every so often. Maybe they've gotten better over the years and are a viable substitute for good ole fashion polishing techniques. Definitely the clear coat should come off regardless.

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I'm pretty sure the PoliGlow is water based polymer. Water will wash it off until it cures for an hour or so, just like a floor polish. Each coat air dries in a few minutes. You need to apply it in very thin coats which is why you need at least 6. After 3 or 4 coats it will look positively horrendous and you will think you've made a huge mistake, then suddenly it starts looking smooth and shiny. The prep is the key so it will adhere well to the evenly roughened surface, similar to painting.

There are horror stories and photos of it looking all splotchy and peeling off. I can see how it would peel right off a shiny surface and look splotchy if the surface isn't evenly cleaned and roughened.

<br />Ya clear coats are meant to go on top of special flat paint designed for clear coats.  Clear coating a fiberglass gel coat doesn't seem the best move.  <br /><br />The poliglow looks interesting.  It must be some kind of penetrating oil based product?  Those work well if you keep applying them every so often.  Maybe they've gotten better over the years and are a viable substitute for good ole fashion polishing techniques.  Definitely the clear coat should come off regardless.<br />
<br /><br /><br />
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Ahh I see. I should have looked at the product you linked closer. I was under the impression it was a one-coat penetrating deal, but what you describe is much better. Definitely making sure the surface has something to adhere to sounds like the key to this type of build-up application. My brother-in-law lives on a sailboat as do a couple of my friends. I'll have to check this stuff out.

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In case anyone is interested here are some b4 and after photos. The angles and lighting are not exact but I think you will see the difference.:)

Ahh I see. I should have looked at the product you linked closer. I was under the impression it was a one-coat penetrating deal, but what you describe is much better. Definitely making sure the surface has something to adhere to sounds like the key to this type of build-up application. My brother-in-law lives on a sailboat as do a couple of my friends. I'll have to check this stuff out.

post-2792-12511448322918_thumb.jpg

post-2792-12511448614182_thumb.jpg

post-2792-1251144884681_thumb.jpg

post-2792-12511449075337_thumb.jpg

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