teetah111 Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 I had to fix a seal that's behind the "harmonic balancer" as the shop called it... twice now. The first time the shop said it must have been put together wrong as the pin for the shaft and pulley had backed out into the shaft seal, and oil started spraying out once the seal got torn enough. Last year, about 4 years after the first time, it did it again. Is anyone else experiencing this issue? I have a 1986 New Horizon (85 Toyota). I'm really interested in buying one of the newer rigs like this, but am hoping this issue is just a fluke for my vehicle. If this has to be fixed regularly I don't want to go that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom W Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Not sure what eng you have but I've seen Key's walk out and hit a seal usually it was just a matter of a punch mark or chisel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 That is a famous oil leak on the 22RE's and boy do they leak a lot! The seal is actually is in the oil pump if the pump was not removed and just the seal replaced it maybe leaking between the case and the pump housing best bet is to remove the pump replace the sealing ring behind the pump install a new seal and put it back together. Be sure to have a good look at the pulley and make sure there is not a grove worn in it where the seal rides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodybagger Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 You've got to cut the lip of that seal (or punch through it a screwdriver or seal puller) and pry it out - and it's very easy to nick the crankshaft. It doesn't take much of a nick or burr on the crankshaft to wear out a seal over 4 years. What's it had since then... 5 - 10k miles? 10k miles = 32 million revolutions of the cranshaft, assuming all highway 3rd gear no idling. That is a lot of rubbing. In addition to nicks which may need to be sanded out with ultrafine sandpaper, make sure the seal is seated to the proper depth so the front and rear lips are both in contact with the seal journal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teetah111 Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 Not sure what eng you have but I've seen Key's walk out and hit a seal usually it was just a matter of a punch mark or chisel It is the 22 RE engine. What do you mean by a matter of a punch mark or chisel? Is there something the shop should be doing to keep this key from backing out so easily? Kind of hard to catch it until it's already doing damage. Has cost me $500+ per repair, and the towing fee for the last time when the pulley came completely unscrewed when the key fell out (the good news was it couldn't keep poking a hole in the seal... bad news was it already had). In summer... in 104 degree temps and the middle of nowhere. Gotta admit, I'm nervous about travelling anywhere after that. And for you later posters... there was maybe 8K on the engine between the two incidents. My sis had this rig before me and never had it happen in 5 years and driving it across country from WA to VA. Lots more miles there. Maybe she broke it... Mostly I just want someone to reassure me that the 6 cyl engine is not the same and this issue was fixed... I otherwise really have loved this little motorhome and want to upgrade to the 6 cylinder and a newer model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom W Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 I have a v6 pretty much had the eng stripped down front pulley off heads ETC, don't remember for sure, it had key the way it was couldn't move, what I refering to was I've seen some keys that could move and hit a seal or housing in that case a chisel mark on the key slot to keep it from slideing out, and blue locktight when in doubt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 On a 22r series engine the seal rides on the rear snout of the vibration damper. The problem when replacing the seal is torquing the damper bolt. It takes 120 lb ft to do it right. Unless you have a way to lock up the engine all that happens is the engine just turns and you end up with 50-60 lbs ft on the bolt and it will come lose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teetah111 Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 Ah, thanks, all. I hope that the shop did all that when they put it back together. Last repair was out of town due to the whole thing coming apart on the road. Heading out for the weekend on the same road that "killed" it last time, so wish me luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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