'93 shift column lockout info needed

[Flyinby]

We were gone about 6 weeks, and I went to start up and move our '93 Itasca Spirit for exercise as I normally do, but when I went to take it out of park, the shift column wouldn't budge.  After a web search I was more confused than ever...the usual bad info, such as 'the '93 Toyota trucks didn't have column shift' to blown brakelight fuses.  

 

After checking the brakelights etc., i took off the lower panel below the steering wheel, thinking the ignition switch lockout would be causing it, but it's working fine.  I did see something about a cable that runs from the brake pedal to the column with a lock pawl that can get corroded, and if that's true, it could be the cause, but I had to wrestle with one seized bolt on the driver's seat for most of an hour and the day is done, so thought I'd check here and see if anyone knows what that year uses for lockouts...it definitely has the ignition switch lockout and it definitely isn't the cause. 

 

When I wiggle the shift column, I can see a very slight twisting movement where the shaft goes through the firewall, which doesn't tell me a lot.  I can't pull back on the shift lever as I think I recall having to do to get it out of park.  It simply will not move the shaft in or out, and I can't tell if it's another lockout or something frozen.  It was shifting fine prior to being parked for the 6 weeks.

 

If anyone knows which type of lockouts and the likelihood of their causing this with the '93, I'd appreciate the info so I know where to look first.  Now that the seat bolts are out I can go in there tomorrow and get a little better view, hopefully.  I've sprayed WD40 around any suspicious rusted areas of the column, but have no clear evidence that it's seized, and as i said, the column does show a very slight turning movement when wiggling the shifter with the ignition lock released.

 

Thanks in advance for any helpful info anyone may have.

Edited February 27, 2022 by Flyinby

[thewanderlustking]

Is your steering wheel locked?  If so, try to move the steering wheel off the steering lock.  98 times out of 100, the steering wheel lock is just jammed because pressure from the steering not being straight, is holding it there.  It is very very rare to have a sudden failure of this without plenty of pre warnings.    

Edited February 27, 2022 by thewanderlustking

[linda s]

Yup it's happened to many. Gets locked in park. Here's how one person managed to temporarily fix it. 

the only issue with leaving it in neutral is that you cannot remove the ignition key unless the lever is in park so you have to leave the key in the ignition. Stupid Toyota and their stupid "we will protect you from your self" attitude I was successful in manipulating the cable (after removing the cable from the brake peddle)  But I am sure the problem will come back as I did not "fix" anything, I just "got it to work" again. the only real way to "fix" things is to remove the steering column, disassemble the key lock and remove the brake shift safety cable mech from the lock mech. I do not know if this is even possible but I do know that all v-6 Toyota RVs with column shifts will eventually have this problem as it is a major "design flaw". there should be a safety recall so that Toyota is made to fix the mistake they made.  I guess it will take a number of people to freeze to death because their vehicle is locked in park before anything will be done. Even installing a shift lock override would be an improvement.  They DO have a shift lock override on their console shifters but not on the column ones.  the console shifter has an electronic shift lock but since the shift lock on the column shifters is all mechanical (cable) this option is not one that would work. I have been stranded in the middle of nowhere too many times. At least I know what I have to do to get going again. It takes time to disassemble the brake safety cable and get it to release the pin in the steering column but so far I have not had to call a flat bed tow truck to get out of the boonies. Over the years the I have found that the easiest way to get to the peddle to remove the cable is to lie on your back with your rear end on the driver's seat and your shoulders on the floorboard with your head under the dash. That way you can see and get to the cable where it attaches to the peddle.       Doesn't seem to happen on the 4 cylinders so I've never had to deal with it. Linda S

[linda s]

Better explanation and real fix with pics. 

Shifter stuck in park - Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc. - Toyota Motorhome Discussion Board

 

[Flyinby]

Wow, talk about quick responses, thanks to both for your quick replies.  Wanderlustking, it's the shifter that's locked, not the steering wheel, but I have had the situation you describe happen on multiple vehicles...quite common and unnerving when it happens until you know the way to release it.

 

Linda S, I agree they should have had a safety recall since this is so common.  There should ALWAYS be an override for any such system, it's just common sense since it can leave people stranded.

 

Now that I know it IS a cable from brake to column (and how to get at it) I know where to focus tomorrow.  Fortunately I have the driver's seat out so it might make it a bit less unpleasant to get in there to see.  If that's the issue, which it most likely is, I'll try to see it's well lubricated to prevent any sort of future corrosion, but if it happens again, I'll figure out a way to completely disable it.  A safety feature that can leave you stranded in the  middle of nowhere...not an example of brilliant engineering.

 

Thanks again, and I'll report back with the (positive, I hope) results in a day or so.

[Flyinby]

Well, it's fixed and working, but I opted for Plan B.  The sticking cable was indeed the problem, and I could pull out the cable end while pressing the brake pedal which unlocked the shifter.  I figured on taking out the cable and fixing it properly, but ran into some snags along the way.  The '93 is a little different than the posted pictures, but close enough.  But when I went to take off the plastic duct, there's a single screw in an awkward place...no straight shot with a Phillips, not enough room for a stubby, and trying a 90 degree  Phillips just would not stay in well enough to turn it.  To make it worse, I could only open the driver door just enough to squeeze through, because the RV had been moved close to a wall, so my attack angles were limited.  Even a Phillips bit in a 1/4" universal socket with extensions wouldn't budge it, and it was looking like it might damage the screw.  I was tempted to just break off the plastic tab that holds the duct, and replace it with metal when I reinstalled, but took a second look at the cable and got an idea I liked better.

 

At the brake pedal end of the cable there are 3 14mm nuts for different purposes, and it's possible to remove the cable from the metal ferrule that goes through the bracket to the brake pedal.   The ferrule also acts as a stop for the 'up' travel of the pedal, so you wouldn't want to remove the whole assembly.  I backed out the nut that held the cable to the ferrule, and was able to pull the cable out of the ferrule.   Pulled firmly on the dangling end of the cable to make sure it was fully unlocked, and put things back together.

 

Initially I thought if worse came to worse, I'd just cut the cable and do without the unneeded Park-pedal lockout, but this is better because nothing is damaged and it can be fully put back if I ever get the urge.  Both my wife and I drove for many years without the "feature" that locks a vehicle in park if you're not pressing the brake, and hitting the brake  before shifting into drive or reverse is a deeply-embedded habit for both of us.  And this way, the stuck shifter, at least from the brake cable, is never going to happen again.

 

It might be a good idea, if your lockout cable is intact but you've had sticking problems, to keep a small pair of dikes (side-cutter pliers) in the glovebox.  If it happens, you can manipulate your head down there with a flashlight and see the protrusion when you hold down the brake pedal, grab the end with the dikes (or needlenose, but dikes have a better grip), and pull it out, enabling you to shift out of park if the key is turned on.

 

There's also a way to tell, without looking, if it's the brake lockout or the ignition lockout keeping you from getting out of park.  If you can pull the shift lever toward you a couple of inches, as you would to shift out of Park, then it's not the brake lockout stopping you.  The ignition lockout lets you pull it toward you, but stops you from pulling it down into gear.  The brake lock won't let you pull the shift lever toward you at all.

 

Thanks for the helpful advice from this forum.