Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello All.

76 20R 4sp

I have a BIG problem and need some direction. Over the previous weekend, I completed a GM hei conversion and drove it for 4 days. Mostly around Cheyenne but twice took it out on the eway to bring it up to 65 to drive with traffic. Runs AWESOME. Well Monday 8-6, my daughter picked it up to take back to her town in CO. Almost there, it died about 2-1/2 miles from her place. So she left it there and got a ride home. She was driving in a heavy thunder storm and thought she was hit by lighting. She was not. Tuesday evening, I  head down and here is what I found.

The battery is at 13.67v. Battery good.  13.56v at lug on starter. Disassembled the ignition switch. All 4 positions are working correctly. I am not getting any power to the ignition switch. All the fuses are good but no power to the fuse block.  Turn the key nothing. Now, here is where I am confused. No brake lights. Pull the knob for the park lights NOTHING. Pull out for the head lights and the head lights come on. Both hi and low beam. Blinkers-nothing. No 4 ways  She does not have a radio installed in the dash, so nothing to check there. I did not try the wipers. Can not get 12V to positive side of the coil.

Coming from the positive cable is a red w/blue strip and a (looks like) either a white or yellow wire. I can not find where they go to under the dash. What should I be looking for under the dash? I have a Chilton manual but it definitely leaves something to be desired in the wiring diagrams. Many of the lines do not have colors listed or blocks labeled as to what they are. I have ordered a used Haynes manual today and should have shortly.

I am stumped and desperately need help and advise from those of you more knowledgeable then me. I will try to add pics if possible.

Thank you for your help. Chris in Cheyenne.              Sorry for the long post

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The older toy homes had fuse links for battery feed they were wire designed to burn through on over load one supplied battery voltage for the stuff where you found no voltage. Sometimes it obvious it's burnt out melted insolation erc. other times the insolation is not burnt but the wire inside is burnt through it basically is a wire fuse. They are under the hood and I believe there were two the diesels had 3. They were very popular in their day until some smart person realized burning wires had a tendency to set fire to things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where are the fusible links located? I know under the hood, but any information about a closer area would be helpful. I have replaced them before in years past on chevy and ford. Those were easy to find because they are not buried in the harness. Actually withing inches of the battery. I do not see any within inches of the battery. What size are these fuse links? Would it be ok to replace with an inline fuse? What amperage?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should have 2 fusible links. One supplies battery voltage to the fuse block, one is for your lights. 

Not sure of the color coding for your year but they tie into the harness next to the (+) battery cable. One should be 12ga. (Fuse block) one 14ga. ( headlights). You can get generic links at places like Auto Zone. 

Don’t use fuses. If they trip, you could suddenly loose all power. Not good if your on the road. 

Edited by fred heath
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They usually are yellow or orange they are not very long some had a tag attached with the current rating they will be somewhere near the fuses block under the hood. Many have replaced them with fuse holders no big deal either way if they go south you have the same problem fuse or fuse link, fuses are easier to replace. If it's cooked there is a reason they are fairly high current so it would take a good short to fry them. All the newer one use a fuse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the harness next to the battery (+) there should be two similar gage wires exiting. On my truck, black/red is for the ignition and a solid white for the headlights. They’re the only two larger wires to exit at that location. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the links were removed the wiring should be close by. There have been a few decades for people to tinker the wiring so pretty much anything goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...