MI Chinook

Revive from the dead...... My local jy has 2 of the1982 pickups with the manual trans. I would like to do the 20/22 hybrid. Since I will be pulling the 22 from a pickup, what should I do to it before placing in the chinook? Last year I did the timing set and adjusters in the 20r so I should be able to reuse them. ( less than 600 miles on it) Of coarse the oil pan gasket and freeze plugs but what else? From what I understand, I use the 20r head and intake. What would be a good carb to use on this intake? Do I use the 20 or 22 exhaust manifold? Thanks for your help and advise?

Fusible links have been removed a while ago. So where should I start looking for the wire. What color feeds the fuse block? I believe black w/red feeds the ignition but from where?

Where are the fusible links located? I know under the hood, but any information about a closer area would be helpful. I have replaced them before in years past on chevy and ford. Those were easy to find because they are not buried in the harness. Actually withing inches of the battery. I do not see any within inches of the battery. What size are these fuse links? Would it be ok to replace with an inline fuse? What amperage?

76 body Will the inner fenders, outer fenders, or doors from a 1982 pickup fit on a 76? The seats should bolt swap, Yes? Is there anything else that will swap from the 82 to the 76? Is it worth grabbing the 22r or stay with the 20r we have? The 76 in 4sp and the 82 is an auto. They have a 81 supra. Would that 6cyl have the w56 trans?

Some one a long time ago ruined where the key goes in on the steering column. Have been using a screwdriver for years. I can not figure out how to remove the complete unit. We slide the screwdriver in a hole where the tumblers/waffers should be to turn the ignition on/off. How do I remove the complete unit from the steering column? My local jy just received in an 81 and 82 toy pickups. Will the ignition unit from either one of them work in the 76? What cars would have the correct one? If I have to order a new one, what is the correct name that I should be looking for? Thank you for your help. Chris

Hello All. 76 20R 4sp I have a BIG problem and need some direction. Over the previous weekend, I completed a GM hei conversion and drove it for 4 days. Mostly around Cheyenne but twice took it out on the eway to bring it up to 65 to drive with traffic. Runs AWESOME. Well Monday 8-6, my daughter picked it up to take back to her town in CO. Almost there, it died about 2-1/2 miles from her place. So she left it there and got a ride home. She was driving in a heavy thunder storm and thought she was hit by lighting. She was not. Tuesday evening, I head down and here is what I found. The battery is at 13.67v. Battery good. 13.56v at lug on starter. Disassembled the ignition switch. All 4 positions are working correctly. I am not getting any power to the ignition switch. All the fuses are good but no power to the fuse block. Turn the key nothing. Now, here is where I am confused. No brake lights. Pull the knob for the park lights NOTHING. Pull out for the head lights and the head lights come on. Both hi and low beam. Blinkers-nothing. No 4 ways She does not have a radio installed in the dash, so nothing to check there. I did not try the wipers. Can not get 12V to positive side of the coil. Coming from the positive cable is a red w/blue strip and a (looks like) either a white or yellow wire. I can not find where they go to under the dash. What should I be looking for under the dash? I have a Chilton manual but it definitely leaves something to be desired in the wiring diagrams. Many of the lines do not have colors listed or blocks labeled as to what they are. I have ordered a used Haynes manual today and should have shortly. I am stumped and desperately need help and advise from those of you more knowledgeable then me. I will try to add pics if possible. Thank you for your help. Chris in Cheyenne. Sorry for the long post

This past weekend(8-6-18), I used the floor jack and raise the rear end to what I thought looked like the correct rake from front to back. Measurements taken at the rear bumper, I will need to raise the rear about 8-1/2" to 8-3/4". Has anyone swapped springs from a different year toyota or from a different manufacture? What other mfg has the same spring eye to spring eye with the centering pin in the correct position? Right now the frame mounted rubber stoppers are 3/8"-1/2" from the axle. So when we load some food and clothes, fill the fuel tank and two people go out camping, I'm afraid the stoppers will be resting on the axle. I would like some suspension movement.

Hello All, 76 chinook 20R 4sp 5 lug Through some reading here in MANY different topics and post, I read the the stud measurements are 5x4.5 which is the same as the ford ranger/explorer but the stud size is different by 1/2" compare to 12MM. From my own measuring, a full size Ford truck 8.8" rear axle should fit with the explorer shafts with the correct wheel offset. Using a wheel from a Dodge truck should give me the correct back spacing. This will give a much strong axle for weight carrying and many more tire options with load C,D,E tires possible. I know that a ranger/explore wheel will bolt to the 12mm studs but run the risk of sheering the 12mm studs due the the wheel being made for the 1/2" wheel and not torqueing correctly. I would need to change (bore/drill) the front rotors from 12mm to 1/2" so I can press the 1/2" studs in. This way I would only need 1 spare and not 2. Has anyone done this swap with success and done a write up about it that maybe I have missed. We do NOT plan to do heavy towing but rather want the safety factor for the already weak 5 lug axle in the rig. What other vehicles would have the correct length leaf springs with the center pin in the correct location could be used. These rear springs are sagging BAD. Thursday 7-18-18 I had the rig weighed with most of the stuff removed from inside and it weighed 3220# with no occupants and less than 1/4 tank of fuel. Thanks to all before me who have contributed to this site to make it such a great resource. Chris

76 Chinook with the 20R and manual 4sp trans. Does this chassis have the electric fuel pump in the tank or outside the tank? If in the tank, what filter sock should I be getting? Should there be a rear frame rail filter and under hood filter or just the under hook fuel filter? What size rubber fuel line should I buy. I want to purchase parts before starting work. Sometimes the truck will run good and two minutes later it can not get out of its own way. Sometimes will fire right up and other times will only start with a push start. I am sure I have two different issues going on but thought I would start with the easier fuel lines first. THEY ARE OOOOOOOOLD. (Found out ALL the rubber fuel line are original....06/76) Next question, What is the electrical item that is on top of the coil? I'm sure it has something to do with the ignition. It has a sticker that says "Caution HOT Do not touch". I have heard that this item can fail and is hard to find to replace. If so, is there an upgrade for it? Still running points. Thank you for your help, Chris

Hello ZERO, I am glad you mixed up the conversation and then clarified it. It has helped me years after you posted. Thank you. I'm helping my daughter with her 76 Chinook and some one hooked up a GM one wire alt ( I THINK 1 wire) and it has gone bad. I took the alt to a starter/alternator shop (not big box auto parts) and had it tested. Now I am trying to find a replacement alt but do not know what years to look for. The dead unit ( based on the #4 picture), the E and F are switched but the N is in the same place. The battery post is next to the EFN plug ins and the other B post has a wire going to a tin can bolted to the back of the unit. Is there a way to test the external reg to see if it works? The bad unit has ONE 28" piece of household romex connecting the alt to the truck harness. I would like to remove it, but I do not know what the gazillion other owners have done to the wiring harness. Some things were working until the alt died. The rig does not have the isolater hooked up and no house battery installed. I do not want to install house bat until I know the truck wiring/charge system is working properly first. Then I will move on to the house charge wiring. Thank you to all who have contributed to this site. It has been a real help. Some day I may know enough to help contribute.

What year range should we be looking for?

Thank you Fred and Derek for your responses. The exhaust gasket and oil pan gasket both leak so I need to replace them. Since I have to do that much I figured I might as well do all the gaskets. " Since I'm this far" should I change the timing chain and guides/tensioner? OR is the chain itself durable and just change the guides tensioner? Thank you for help and experience, Chris

She wants to keep it as original as possible so we would like to find another harness. Plus funds are an issue.

ALOT of the wires under the hood are messed up. PO ran 14/2 with ground Romex from the alternator to the harness. Some are OK and some have been spliced up badly. Question.... What years would I be able to use on our 76 toy? I found an 82 Toyota in a field that the owner started to put in a Chevy 283 but had not touched the wire harness yet. Would this work or would it need a little, some, or a lot of work to make work correctly? I do know the 82 is a 2 headlight and ours is a 4 headlight. That is an easy fix. Thank you.

Hello all. I'm new to the Toyota Chinook. I'm a Bronco guy but my daughter and I ( mostly hers) have a 76 Chinook. She has had it for a few months but while driving it from MI to WY the water pump went out. I drove to Iowa and fixed it. She continued on the trip. Went another 550-600 miles and almost here the head gasket went. So We loaded it on a trailer and towed it home. So on to my questions... 1) Is the head aluminum or cast iron? 2) Is this head built for lead or unleaded gas? 3) Are there certain things the machine shop look for/do while checking the head for cracks? Only one shop in Cheyenne and he his not real familiar with Toyota or 20r. 4) Will a different head work on this block? etc...22r, 22re or others? 5) Are the head bolts tty or can they be reused? Any other things I should know would be helpful. Thank you in advise. Chris