payaso del mar

and did I mention that 27x 8.5-14 LT tires fit in the wheel wells of at least the 84-89 generation chassis? plenty of load capacity but over an inch larger diameter (26.8 vs 25.7" for 185-14) so it will effectively regear you. better if you have a lighter vehicle and/or have regeared to a lower (higher numeric) rear end.

so avoid the tire monkeys unless you're on the road and have no choice. I've never dealt with anyone less than knowledgeable at Tire Rack. they appear to have 3 choices in the C and D rated 185R14s: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=185%2F&ratio=0&diameter=14&rearWidth=255%2F&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17&zip-code

really nice work! i'm going to have to borrow a few of your ideas for my Bandito. i'm with you on not pulling the cabinets if not needed yet. you have any leakage around the top of your windows? mine doesn't still have the ceiling cloth, but I don't know of any reason you couldn't do it. how would you secure it to the roof? and is your roof flat in the middle or has it gone concave?

probably a function of the crappy insulation in American RVs. 13,500-18000 btu would cool my entire house.

well, I just ordered the Warn 2000#....got the extra Northern Tool sucker warranty in case I do torch it......with coupon, about $125 with 2 snatch blocks and shipping. i'll let y'all know how it works out.......... I sometimes think my wife envies the Irishwomen whose husbands merely stop at the pub on payday to drink up their wages....the tool store is much more pernicious and pricey!

the 2 fans idea might be a really good one but it seems counterintuitive to add another electric motor to reduce juice usage..........

true of a lot of products. people don't usually want to bother learning more than the marketing buzzwords, and once they have dropped significant $ on something, they (at least subconsciously) want to believe that it's great (ie, they made a wise purchase). the shrinks have a term for this but I forget it. this is one reason many folks give things inordinately high ratings and why I always start by reading the worst reviews first.

four letters: AK 47.................. sometimes crude and loose tolerances works well. Jim, that sounds like no signal from ignitor. and I agree with JD, your diagnostic approach is just fine and you're not likely to find anyone who cares as much about your 20+ yr old RV running as you do.

Dan, if you're laying into lug nuts hard with extension bar AFTER lubing threads, you're probably putting too much torque on the lug threads.... bolt torque is actually an imperfect indirect measure of bolt stretch......and any kind of slickness throws this relationship off, because the bolt has stretched a lot more by the time the pulling torque on the wrench hits the same torque #. i'm guessing you aren't traveling with a spouse or signif other who might ever have to undo those nuts? when you torque em in your driveway, use a torque wrench and downrate the torque spec slightly if you lube threads. too much torque doesn't do anything except hasten the metal fatigue of lug studs and nuts. I've gotten away from using even a little bit of grease on wheel studs....when you go to pull the wheel off, the inside of the wheel will often have dirt all over, which then falls on the lug threads as you remove the wheel and sticks in the grease. try 3M spray nonstick lube or graphite instead if you're worried about lug galling..

are you talking for a long trip, or just across town? yes, in theory you still should have seat belts for everyone. no, in reality, the seat belt attachment points in many RVs aren't always very stout, to the point that rear belts are sometimes only "advisory" as far as keeping you in place. does anyone else see the irony in Cali being the LESS regulated place for once? go figger.

given that it's a 3.0, don't you mean "awwwwww........." inspiring?

yeah, sharpen the tip of your multimeter probe and stab it right through the insulation.....you can glob some goop over pinhole later if that bothers you but not really much need

I hear ya. i once gave away a '91 Mazda truck because neither i nor my carb-whiz buddy could get it to run right....overnight went from years of running perfectly to getting 15 mpg and no one could determine why, even after replacing every vacuum line on the damn thing (used a whole 50 foot roll!)...one of the last years of carbs, when they were computer contolled. guy i gave it to slapped a Weber DGV on it (no emissions inspections where he lives) and is probably still driving it

one reason I use the term China Inc........ hard to beat that $....and I suspect you could reduce the noise output a bit with some crude engineering.......vented box with sound absorption foam, and improved muffling....if that matters

boy do I know what you mean on Fla as the home of the scammers. when I lived there in the 70s, the places was still filled with the aftermath of the scams, get-rich-quick schemes, and failed dreams of the 60s. particularly in the Melbourne area, lots of people figured the space boom was gonna last forever.....there was a huge subdiv on the mainland with streets but no houses ever got built....... great place to shoot, drag race, neck, underage-drink, whatever back to Ugly Reality....that deal from Rock sounds good. but they are echoing what I said: it's not usually the ECM, so eliminate everything else first.

the arrogance of MS.......imagine how people would react if any other manufacturer of any product acted like that, and consistently produced products that introduced new problems that didn't exist in last year's model..........

JD, you're educating a lot of us here. I may have to replace the little Sharp cube i was planning on using with one o them Panasonics. on the battery drain issue, would it help any to run the engine while microwaving and for a few min thereafter? I commonly do this while running power tools off the 1000w nverter hooked up to the truck starting battery (didn't have house batteries in it for years)

I guess I wasn't clear. I was trying to say that just to test spark, not much else needs to work properly. compatibility might be broader than you realize: look at the long list of 836 vehicles that ECM Jim linked to is claimed to fit....from '05 1.8L Celicas to '08 $runners with the 5.7 V8. Jim, I read the feedback and they look decent. the only negative was a guy who didn't understand they might not be able to fix it and who apparently got his $ back anyway. sounds like you have little to lose IF YOU'VE NARROWED IT DOWN TO THE ECM. I really would check everything else first simply because it's usually the parts that live in the hot/wet/dirty engine bay that die first, rather than the ECM that lives in your nice cab.

damn I love youtube. when I first heard about it, I envisioned nothing but ego addled fools wasting your time. plenty of that, but it seems to have become one of the best how-to sites on the web. along with Wikipedia, one of the few sites that fulfills the promise of the internet as a free flowing stream of info empowering Joe and Jane Average, rather than the fetid swamp of commerce and stupidity it mostly is.... sorry this is giving you so much poop. here's an out of left field idea or 2: 1. maybe post an ad on local CL setting forth issue and asking if someone would let you swap in their ECM etc for a minute to test for spark? there has to be a USMC alumnus with a Toytruck who'd help a fellow Marine. maybe buy em lunch or something to sweeten the deal. for this purpose, it wouldn't matter if it was precisely the right ECM, as I suspect any roughly-similar-year 3.0 ECM would let you check spark....doesn't matter if the advance curves, injection settings, etc are correct for your specific model. once you know what part it is, you can spend the $ and get the specific one for your chassis. 2. most communities have at least one guy who's a Toy 4x4 fanatic, knows the 80s models better than the factory at this point, and builds rock crawlers*. he often won't have an ad for parting specific vehicles but often will have a big stash of parts, particularly from 80s Toys since those are more popular with the 4x4 crowd (due to ease of solid front axle conversion, I suspect). I;ve gotten a lot of stuff from the local guy like this. find him via local CL, yellow pages etc, or on local 4WD forums. *having lived in FL for 11 years, I realize that there aren't many rocks to crawl......

i'm a bit confused, are those examples of others you've seen? there are 2 threads on here, incl one that's pinned Involving hanging a YAm (WR400?) and one that's really active right now, on roughly this topic. pretty common mod. check this out: I like how the guy in your last pic left open space in the center for the oil to drip from the bike .......both that Kaw 750 bobber and the Triumph(?)(Norton? BSA? Royal Enfield?) weigh twice what your XL250 does I think I just figured out what you meant on "boat extensions"....those pods they put on the rear to move huge outboards back and add rear flotation to offset weight?

the plot thickens. Totem, I just checked Rock Auto and I think he's right....they don't show a MAF sensor for the '93 Celica with the normally aspirated 2.2, they list a MAP sensor, and the pix are definitely of MAP sensors, vacuum port and all. check it out: thttp://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1993,celica,2.2l+l4,1274251,fuel/air,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207

nobody parting a V6 on CL in your area? I see a lot of em that get parted around here when the 3.0 head gaskets go, and the parts in Q aren't likely to be unique to the truck.

actually very similar to most any shim-over-bucket arrangement.....I was even able to use the tools I bought for air cooled Yamahas and my '88 Kaw 750 when I did the Taco.

nice! i'd never heard of them before; bookmarked now. I may have to just make my own from bulk sunbrella.

I suspect the same could be applied to lots of well regarded surgeons........it damn sure could to lots of well regarded lawyers! and more than a few luthiers.