FLGASUNRADER

Spent the day installing the new Smartcore vinyl plank flooring. Tomorrow we will be staining the new counter top and new wall blocking off the truck cab. The AC / heat would escape so quickly and the baby fell when he leaned on the blanket we used as a wall. Can't wait to get back on the road! Thinking about installing a rear camera when this project comes to an end. Still have a lot of work to do fiberglassing the front windows in.

I just took my windows out and am in the process of trying to fiberglass the holes now. I'd be willing to sell you the window for $50 plus whatever it costs to ship it. I know the drivers side window is original but the passenger side window is plexiglass made to fit.

Here are a few more pictures. We were shocked to find out that the carpet was only stapled down. I thought for sure the carpet was run underneath everything. The walls have 2 coats of 1-2-3 primer and 2 coats of a flat based yellow paint. The ceiling has 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of semi-gloss white paint. I understand it's a little backwards but all the paint was free paint we had leftover from other projects so we figured we might as well put it to good use. There are no more water stains and the walls / ceiling look so much better without holes and all the extra hardware. We took down the tracks for the curtains, the blinds and the piece of plywood / trim that hides the blinds. It now feels huge and open. Once the window are all resealed and the blinds clean they will go back up. I'm hoping to reduce some weight and noise by getting rid of the excess materials. At the same time we are beefing up the frame for the kitchen and putting in a new wood counter top as well as installing a single sink. I'm hoping to cut the vent pipe and install unions so that I can have a nice clean hole in the counter and no chunks missing.

My wife and I have recently started renovating my grandfathers 1990 Sunrader V6. The front windows leaked (even after having them "professionally" resealed) so I decided to attempt you hand at fiberglassing them in. With only 1 successful posting with pictures that I could find I figured I should get a thread going. We also ripped up the old nasty carpet and tore off the counter top with the awkwardly sized double sinks. We plan on priming / sealing the floor and then laying down some of the locking vinyl hardwood looking flooring. After going back and forth we also decided to update all of the lights to LED lights. I am by no means a professional but I would be happy to talk about this project with others. My wife and I pulled an all-nighter last weekend filling holes, priming and painting the interior. With all the water stains I decided to reseal the windows using butyl tape. I've never used it before but after some research it looked like the best product for this application.

I know most people wouldn't tow with the Sunrader but we have been pulling our gas golf cart around on a landscape trailer and it has been doing fine. We've debated pulling my wife's Yaris but I'd only want to do that if we had a tow dolly with electric brakes. We have the V6 with 183k on it and it runs like a top.

As soon as the fiberglass mat comes in I will just be attempting to have at it. I will let everyone know how it goes. I anticipate doing it this weekend. I also bought some ribbon caulk / tape to reseal the rest of the windows in the camper.

I can understand "some" leakage but at what point does it become excessive? Should I not be comparing it to a normal grill propane tank? I have been avoiding using it like the plague for fear of a continuous small leak while in operation, especially with the heater.

If you need anything specific I believe I have just about every manual for the Sunrader. My grandfather has had this 1990 since 1995 until last year when he gave it to me.

When you rebuilt the cabover how did you secure the new plywood? I'm preparing to remove the two front windows and attempt to fiberglass them in permanently solving the leaks! I haven't done fiberglass work before and I'm sure it's not going to go smoothly but anything will be better than what I have now. I just ordered $250 in materials this afternoon and it should be here by the middle of next week. Any advice to a beginner? I've ordered the Totalboat 5:1 epoxy kit and the Totalboat waxed gelcoat. After all of my research I believe my goal is to apply several coats of gelcoat while it's tacky, let it cure and then resin / fiberglass layers after that.

I'm glad to have found such an active propane discussion. I openly admit that I know very little about our propane tanks. I have a 1990 Sunrader and noticed that when you open or shut the main valve there is a lot of leakage. I'm assuming this is not normal, nor is it safe. When the valve is back seated it does seem to stop. I have been trying to find someone to take a look at it to educate me but have fallen short every time.

Recently I've had a 2x5 cargo rack loaded up with wood as well as a 5x8 trailer loaded with a golf cart behind my 1990 21ft Sunrader with 183,000 miles and it seemed fine. I wouldn't go far with the trailer but if you're going <60mph I'd feel comfortable enough.

How do you set something like that up? There was a model for an extra $100 that was a dual fuel model but to be honest propane in an RV this old makes me nervous. The valve attached to my onboard tank leaks when opening and shutting. The packing on the valve is definitely no good. Unsure of how to resolve the issue I just stopped using the propane (mostly until we use it enough for my wife to understand me wanting to replace it) my grandfather has had the RV since 1995 so I've got every manual, receipt, you name it. I just got it in September and haven't had the time to go through them all yet. He had 3 Sunraders at one time so he's an alright resource, just a little old and can't remember most of the time.

This is the storage rack I have to work with.

I read a lot of reviews and this was told to be the best value for the money. The only reason I got the remote electric start model was so my wife can start it if something happens when I'm underway. I'm looking to power the refrigerator with a few lights in the house and my AC & refrigerator in the RV while we are driving during the summer. I am going to put an additional muffler on it but would also like to build a sound dampening box while maintaining my ability to travel with it. This link is the best one I've seen yet with the identical generator.

I don't know if anyone is in the southeast but a couple days ago we had a good storm and lost power a couple times. With the 6 week old baby and no electricity it was the perfect time to remind my wife about a generator I wanted to purchase earlier in the year! Without hesitation she agreed and I purchased a generator I had been eyeing. Unable to spend the $2,000 on parallel twin Hondas I purchased a Champion 3500 / 4000 starting with remote start shipped to my door for $452! I know it's going to be loud but I'm not exactly sure what to expect. Does anyone have experience with the loud clunkers? Has anyone built a sound deadening box for one? I saw one on YouTube and it seemed to work well. Also I was thinking about welding a frame together on a receiver extension to mount the generator and still be able to pull something small (Toyota Yaris, 5x8 trailer) or use the 2x5 storage rack. I'm assuming others have done this as well...

I just put on 6 Nexen SV820 185 R14 LT tires @ $724.52 from Tires Plus after a blowout and so far I am more than happy with them. The ride quality is night and day compared to the 12 year old Bridgestone's!