grandview bill

Water system winterizing...I use a compressor to blow all lines and traps also, max 30 psi..to protect fragile water pump and toilet valve.....pour rv antifreeze in traps to prevent smell in holding tanks backing into coach, remove engine and coach 12 volt batteries, remove smoke and CO detectors, set mouse traps and stop at storage unit and check traps, so far no mice...indicates a tight unit...if signs of mice...then use D-CON...some people swear that Bounce fabric softener will repel them, I cant stand the smell. Balsam fir oil extract works in tractor cabs, pretty expensive smells great.

To tarp or not to tarp,if you have heavy snowfalls as we do in Minnesota, I always used a tarp to cover the roof area especially the area where the seam is at the roof and sidewall. What happens during the winter is the snow accumulates and adds weight on the roof and tends to open the seams slightly, on warm winter days snow melts, the water finds its way into the structure causing damage. This is very common here in the snowbelt. To me mold is not an issue in winter. Many Rvs are damaged here, but some are wintered in storage areas, the best solution and the best units to buy used, when they lack water damage.

Ten can be strange...for example...I dont hear a single station from the east coast,your area and nothing north south....but I always hear California....there's a good friend in Oregon..but can only talk to him every 11 years...hihi...someday I hope to try 17 mtrs,73 KF0IE

Ten meters is finally open...this cycle?...has been really strange.But now at my qth the band is active every day, with good signals from Europe.While its not great conditions,its usable.I use a 1949 Stancor St 203 mobile transmitter..running 8 watts to the antenna....10 meters is a great band..hve fun....73 Bill

wrong advice...you would measure output VOLTAGE... not current. I have the same converter in my Warrior..do you have the coach battery in place and connected? The battery acts as a capacitor to soak up the AC ripple,it might keep the DC down...the manufacturer has a troubling shooting section with a flow chart...you would not be helped much unless you're familiar with using a volt meter (analog type preferred)...this probably won't be the case where you take one reading and everything becomes crystal clear, some models are adjustable output voltage, a remote chance someone tried to "improve it".

Maineah has the best idea, it looks like a there is slow drain on the engine battery, you probably wouldn't see the arcing of a small drain by the touching of a battery in daylight. Put the test light in series with the positive battery cable (it's a substitute for an ammeter) if it lights, (it might be dim) you know you have a drain.

I agree with dolphinite ,the voltage drops at the battery ,the motor isn't turning fast enough to have enough air flow to activate the sail switch and prove the ignition circuit .....do a test yourself using shore power when available ...plug in when the furnace stops working

typically multiple stop/start stations will have the start buttons wired in paralell and the stop buttons wired in series,the first thing to check is to look for loose wires at the remote start button.next check the button itself by using an ohmmeter for continuity

15 years ago my next door neighbor and his brother in law went up in No.Minnesota deer hunting in their small camper, they never woke up again, they were both killed in their sleep by a faulty furnace. A heating appliance in an very small area can be lethal, many rvs sit for long periods with little use, rusting of the heat exchanger can be an issue. Over the years Ive heard many a camper who told me they will never use a furnace. I wont sleep one night in an rv without a working CO and smoke detector. mine are mounted on a separate board an a hook at nite. I prefer the CO detector that gives a numerical reading even at low values before the alarm sounds. With this latest rv I test the furnace by setting the temperature to turn on the heat .....over a 12 hour period I check the status of the CO digital readout, it was zero. Years ago we would check a heat exchanger with a lamp put inside when it was dark out looking for pinholes and cracks

what they have in common(120vac) 12vdc,is that they originate in the panel converter box.first check you have line voltage coming into that

pictures didnt load.....might not have time tonite to retry....Im loading up the rv and 'heading up da U.P.'

pic of monitor and pipe chase

on ebay the seller was CarPartsDepot inc. $45.00 shipped ....a good deal....its thin metal ,but so is the original...remember it will be easier to take the whole bumper off...you'll need to repaint the whole assembly

good idea....My clearance lites need to be done as a precaution...too many other projects ahead of it

Bobs' right the lens has to come off....youre' right the lens seizes to the body of the light...one of mine was cracked and repaired due to seizing.....but it must come off....maybe prying off at two places instead of one will help go slow..... when you get the lens off you might run into corrosion in the socket ....I use copper wire gun cleaning brushes of the proper size.....then you can follow with a coating of Penetrox on the lamp base( its basically a conductive grease)...

You cant just move a propane detector to anywhere...propane is heavier than air ...it will accumulate at the lowest point ,thats why they are mounted low in the rv...to provide the earliest warning..if the sensor is photo sensative ...check it at nite....if it stops the alarm...then you know light is tripping it......check with the manufacturer.........if at a later date you think the alarm is Ok ....you can check for proper operation by using an unlit propane torch and give the sensor a little whiff of propane

then shield the sensor with metal to block the suns rays,yet leave air space for the detector to work...I remember where one propane detector was tripped by the fumes from certain chemicals in household cleaners...get the manual from the manufaturer

find the manual from the manufacturer and see if the alarm is a low voltage warning ,

I read thru all that Kohler info you sent ...thanks again....the kohler will now handle the A/C and the micro..before it wouldnt....I rebuilt the carb,new plug ,changed to synthetic oil( gained one or two volts)set the governor and checked frequency...I also retorqued all the load side connections which probably helped more than all the other ....my A/C is only 7200 btus and the 2.5 KW can barely ...handle it...on the micowave ..the no load generator voltage is 125VAC,,which drops to 102VAC when the micro is on ....really poor regulation...with voltage drops this low ...things can start to burn out.........the inductive loads...motors and transformers in power supplies.With out taking the unit apart I"ll just live with it .I have an Onan 3.8 that will just fit in the compartment,but thats an awful lot of work.This generator could have been overrated in the power specs.Theres a lot of overating on generators today,lots of hype.But I do believe the Japanese generators are honestly rated.I dont give advise anymore on sizing a genset(small portables) because you cant trust the specs ,which the manufacturer provides.Your Honda will give you good service

I like that idea of a dedicated emergency circuit.Especially with the use of the orange receptacles....wished I would have thought of it......

your wrong...many states adopt NEC as law its written to be terse...that is in legally binding language..if you choose to ignore it thats your business.It it is basically written by the insurance industry as a MINIMUM of standards. on the grounding youre also wrongI dont care if it hot frame and I touch it .....if its not grounded there is no return path no complete circiut,no second wire ..your ground adds this ...when young electricians work on wiring at the vo-techs the school uses ungrounded systems,they require special state permits

some info....that 'suicde plug',if you plug into the load first,then the source and UNPLUG the source first then UNPLUG the load its safer in theory because the hot plug blades arent'exposed,who's going to remember that?........also the NEC does not require grounding of a PORTABLE GENERATOR .grounding in fact is dangerous,this caused so much confusion the the NEC had to issue a clarication.In this case grounding a portable generator creates the ground path for electric shock.Generators connected to premise wiring MUST be grounded to system ground.......a strange code prohibition is the use of an electric vehical as a power source for your home...exceptions apply....I cant give code referances ....I tossed all my code books out when I surrendered my Masters ....Minnesota wanted so much money to renew....

good deal...we alaways wondered where all those Y2K generators were...

to jd technically youre' right but did you notice how many times you used the word 'if',the public isnt aware of these issues and we constantly have to legislate to protect them from themselves.I would allways advocate a proper generator installation.But I would think in reality the chances of a lineman getting killed are remote.Most people dont understand your house is in paralell with all your neighbors homes and all the appliances they left on.Way too much load for a liitle portable gen ,the breaker will trip.Also the lineman is aware of all this and takes precautions.Having said all this,ther was a case where a lineman was killed in Minnesota about 8 yrs.ago the news specifically said someone was using an improperly connected generator.So I back automatic isolation,installed according to the NEC.

I wont size a generator here or for my neighbors...Ive had to do it on the job ocassionally...the problem is that most people want to save money...so they get the size thats marginal,and it wont start motor loads.....or some salesman scares them and they buy way over size....right now (as I write this and the power is not restored across the lake ,there an empty cabin with a large 20kw (very large) running.....with a load probably the same as a 100 watt bulb....my friend told me how pissed everyone is having to listen to it all night...really wasteful