Odyssey 4x4

ahh I did not see where the post number was located. I do not recall the exact positioning of the bushing but when looking at the parts and mechanics involved it is simple to understand the positioning the bushing needs to be in, obviously aligning the hole in the bushing with the oil port in the extension housing. I believe there was another post on this forum that showed exact positioning of the new styled bushing because it is crucial to put it in a certain way for the rotation direction of the shaft and oil distribution. Thanks.

If you are speaking of the very most recent picture posted, that picture is of the old bushing before removal showing how it has rotated away from the port and is quite tore up.

and imagine the aerodynamics of that thing, it would be scary to drive down a windy highway!

These were the old pictures that caused it to fail in the first place before the repair.

I actually just found a brand new entire handle replacement for my Escaper from a small rv shop and picked it up for $30. Bargman has gone out of business so the only luck you'll have in finding a replacement is Ebay or a junk yard. Beware I ordered a different style entire handle with light off Ebay and it broke within a week.

All I have is the coach rv deep cycle battery. I recently did an led conversion similar to this thread... http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3943 You can also see my short write-up of it here... http://daysofexploration.blogspot.com/2013/05/sixth.html I read somewhere that the led lights use about the 1/10th of the power of incandescent. If I used to run multiple/all of my interior lights the battery started fading out rather quickly. I converted most of my interior lights to led and used them every night all weekend for a couple hours and left with a full coach battery still. I ordered mine on Ebay but beware you will have to solder and do some basic wiring and taking things apart and what not. Search this on Ebay... "36-1210SMD LED Warm White" to see the lights I used. I have no solar power btw, but future plans to!

I found and ordered these exact taillights but was then informed they were on backorder. I needed them in a hurry so I cancelled my order and ordered standard non LED lights from Bargman in the same style. A week later go figure I still received the led lights in the mail but had to return them since I had cancelled the order long before they showed up. I will say that they were nice quality and looked pretty fancy. I just could not stand the thought of how dang expensive those led taillights were compared to the incandescent. I decided to go with the incandescent since I paid I believe $50 total for both rather than $130 for the leds. I do not remember exact pricing but I believe it was around that. I am not worried of them not being led because that is not a problem while driving as far as battery concerns. All my interior lights have been converted to led though for long battery life while camping. I just spent 3 days camping and using my led lights often and the battery did not drain at all. I was quite happy with the leds on the interior.

Not a problem, this has been a great community since I have joined and I enjoy sharing my work with others as well as following others write ups on here as well. If it is any help, I crawled under mine and wiggled the yoke to feel quite a bit of play in it. Obviously I already knew it was shot at this point but this just reassured me on that. While I was looking at the Dolphin at the junk yard with 60k miles (if i recall correctly) I crawled under it and wiggled the yoke to find NO play whatsoever. As I posted before you can see how badly the old yoke got chewed up here. And here you can see the old bushing still in place and can also see how badly it is worn. Also notice that the bushing had rotated and was no longer properly aligned with the oil supply hole. Regarding the two things you said, when you say bearing I assume you are speaking of the bushing? In that case, yes it is what I replaced and was the cause of the failure. The bushing, yoke, and two seals were all replaced. I assume that reusing the old yoke if it was not damaged should not be a problem as long as it looks and feels okay. As you can see in the pics, mine was totally destroyed. When you get a new bushing slide it over the yoke and make sure it is a good tight fit. I have a feeling if your yoke was in bad shape you would know it by looking at it since there should be no wear in it. Regarding question number 2, The bushing went bad, causing the yoke to spin inside of it damaging the yoke, I felt when this happened as there was a new intense vibration. The only part of the tranny I removed was the extension housing and that contained all parts that were replaced inside of it. After reassembly the transmission seems to be doing fine and I do not see any other leaking other than a very small amount where the one tranny pan bolt snapped off. Hopefully that helped you somewhat.

Indeed. Like I said I will be hunting it down hopefully this weekend and will post my findings. I know for a fact it is some type of fuel delivery issue because when truck is started without generator running it runs and idles perfect. If I have generator running and then start truck, the truck with have a hard time starting and idle rough until generator stalls out once I start driving. We shall find out!

Let me add that my truck is fuel injected. As I said, I believe it has its own fuel supply from the tank because the owner told me when I bought it that the generator would shut off if tank reached 1/4 tank. I tested this and found it to be true while running the generator while doing the floor install. I will be crawling under it this weekend to take a look at how exactly the fuel supply for the generator is setup.

So after a slight delay I was able to get the Toyota back together the day before a 900 mile journey. Unfortunately I was in focus mode and didn't get to take any pics of the finishing of the repair. I found a heavy duty truck parts company in Tampa and they ordered me the new Transmission yoke for a grand total of $85. The bushing was ordered from a Toyota dealer as well as the seals needed. I got the old bushing out without a problem and did not cause any nicks or scratches in the housing itself where the bushing rides. I was going to attempt to drive the new bushing in myself but did not want to risk a $60 bushing. I found a transmission shop near me while driving to pick up the yoke and stopped in. The guy was nice enough that he grabbed the parts, got the special drive made just for that bushing, and smacked it in with a hammer within a few swings. I was a little worried when I saw him grab the hammer and he informed me that this is how he has always done them and they cannot be hydraulically driven in (I'm not sure if that is true). He drove it in in no time and handed it back to me and said no charge. I gave him a $20 tip because I was blown away by the gesture, I guess I am too used to rude people around me. I went ahead and stopped and got a new U-joint as well ($8). I attached the new yoke to the drive shaft with the new u-joint, test fit the yoke into the bushing to feel a nice tight fit. I lubed EVERYTHING up with tranny fluid. I then scraped the remaining old gasket material off of the back of the transmission as well as the front of the extension housing. Be careful not to gouge into the soft aluminum while removing the gasket if using a blade or scraper. I got everything into place, it was a real pain getting the extension housing in place as well as the tranny support pieces. It was like a puzzle, a very frustrating puzzle. I finally got everything where I wanted it. I then used Permatex gasket maker and put the extension housing into place and tightened all the bolts by hand. I then finished tightening in a cross pattern with all 6 bolts. I then tightened all the transmission support bolts. Unfortunately one of the support bolts (1 of 4) snapped off while torquing. I was not too worried considering there are 3 other strong bolts. I then lubed and reinstalled the speedo gear. Slid the Yoke into place and re-bolted the transmission carrier bearing support into place. After driving for about 300 miles I crawled under it to see that there was no leaking from the extension housing and tranny fluid was at proper level. This entire repair was a pain in the butt but absolutely necessary. The fit of the yoke into the housing is super tight now. The few pics I snapped are already in this thread. This is the positioning that the new style bushing needs to be put in. Here is the transmission extension housing removed, sorry for the dark picture. This is viewing it looking at the front side, you can see the shaft lube supply tube on the bottom right side Once again sorry for not having any pics, I remember taking more than I have but for some reason they are no longer on my phone! Everything seems good with the truck now as far as that repair and if anyone has any questions regarding to install I may be able to help. It has been driven about 900 miles since this install within a weekend and tranny fluid is still at proper level.

I was working on my Toyota till the last minute putting it back together for a first test trip to Georgia. I am near Tampa, FL and drove the Toyota for my first trip to Stone Mountain, Ga (about 900 mile round trip) to visit family at the park for a weekend visit. I was working on it till 9 pm the night before putting the rear of the transmission back on after replacing a tail housing bushing. Everything went pretty awesome. It drove beautifully but was pulling right leading me to believe I had an alignment issue (which I did not recall it having when I purchased it), or a tire/steering issue. On the trip home it started pulling harder and harder and finally the front right tire went flat. I assume the belt came apart in the tire. I had a spare on within ten minutes and was on the road again and happy to see that it drove nice and straight with the new tire. On the way home I stopped at a Walmart somewhere near the Fl/Ga border and setup camp (closed all my blinds and set my bed up). I ended up running the generator with a/c running all night to test the generator. I ran it from about 11 pm till 11 am the next day and was surprised to see that it did not use as much gas as I though it would. I was also happy to see that it ran all night long without a problem as well. The only problem I am having with the generator is some type of a fuel problem while the vehicle is running. If the vehicle is off, the generator will run as long as I leave it on. As soon as I try to run the generator and vehicle at the same time, the generator stalls. If the generator is running while I start the truck, the truck has a rough time idling/starting. I wanted to get some ideas of what to look for when I go to hunt this problem down. Wrong type of fuel cap possibly? I assume the fuel line connects to the tank on its own because it has the 1/4 tank shut off feature on the generator. Other than that, I had a great time. I showered in the rv the whole weekend. Traveling with me were my Father and my girlfriend. We all had a good time but I think my Dad was getting tired of the tiny RV by the time we got home I can't wait to get back on the road again soon. Taking all back roads and avoiding tolls/interstates the drive was beautiful, about 55 the whole time, sometimes cruising at 60-65. We drove through almost all farmlands with barely any other cars on the road. People were very nice everywhere and it was some neat scenery. Here are a few pics! Cool reflection! Stone Mountain was interesting. Here is looking towards Atlanta from the top of the mountain. Spoiled with hookups at the camp site in Stone Mountain park! We found this neat little town on the way home.

That looks great. Now I feel like it needs a security system, I'd hate to see something like that walk away while you were camping.

The most time consuming part of working on these things is waiting for parts to come in.

I went to a junk yard today that had an 88 Dolphin that was being parted out. I got the tranny yoke out and it was in fine condition but they wanted $75 for it since they said the whole drive shaft is useless without it. I decided to wait since the new one a guy ordered for me was only $95. But on the good side it had an awning it beautiful condition that even matched my Escaper's colors. I opened it up and it was in perfect condition and opened really nicely. I got the awning for $200, a Bargman door handle for $30 (around $200 on Ebay), and a curtain set for free that is in decent condition and a way better color than my ugly ones. The yoke is on order and I decided I am going to have the bushing pressed in by a machine shop since I don't feel like screwing it up.

Man if I paid 25 grand for that thing I'd be scared to leave the driveway in it. Scam or not remember always deal cash in hand exchange only, ALWAYS!

I checked my diff fluid the other day and it was quite low. Always a good idea to top off.

I had a similar problem in an old Ford Bronco I had years ago. It drove normal but had a pretty bad howling sound from the rear end. Being a careless high schooler, I drove it all the way till it crapped out (opened the diff to chunks of metal falling out). I'm sure the bearing can be easily located. If you can't locate one for your specific vehicle from an auto place, mostly any type of construction heavy machinery place will be able to locate it off of the number that is stamped into the bearing. The same usually goes for seals. Any mechanic should be able to fix it considering it is just a Toyota 1 ton pickup. Worst case worse, you can replace the entire rear end replaced like I did in the bronco. Although I'm the type that can be found in a junkyard in 100 degree weather laying in the dirt under a truck pulling parts off of it that I need. Try not to drive it before fixing or you can risk chewing up the differential which will be quite a bit more to fix. Good luck.

Thank you very much! Every project finished is another project started.

At this point there was no table, if you see my other thread I just recently posted it involved building a table/ tv stand. Here are some pics of it finished. I just use a small computer chair and a small stool for chairs. I like to be able to put the table down and move the chairs to have a good amount of open floorspace in the "living room", it makes it feel much larger while relaxing inside.

I will surely test the fit before installation. The shop is ordering the yoke for me tomorrow. I have also located a Dolphin being parted out near me that is the same drive train and complete. Should I not risk putting a used yoke in? For the price I think I will just put the new one in so that will be taken care of for good. The good news is that the Dolphin I found is being parted out and has yet to have any parts taken off of it! It has the awning and if it's in good shape I'm going to get it tomorrow possibly with some other parts. He told me he would do $225 for the awning, I'll decide the true value when I see the condition of it.

Made it to a heavy duty truck place and he took a look at my transmission yoke and told me the replacement would be part number 1303-41. He is going to order it Monday.

I just took a look at powdrhounds write up and saw he has the same, answered my own question!

So I got the bushing, part number 90999-73139. I'm checking it out and something looks off with the oil channels. If you look at the bushing that's still on it, the hole is in the center of the oil channels. On this new one, the hole is in a completely different location relative to the oil channel. Is this A) a new design? B ) the wrong part number, or C) a manufacturing defect? Current bushing still in extension housing... New bushing, part # 90999-73139 I definitely wanted to make sure I have the correct part going in before I start putting it in. Thanks everyone.

^ those things are life savers!