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Jeffrey

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by Jeffrey

  1. "Which leads me to wonder -- how much time does it take to keep one of these in relatively fair/clean shape?" I think the key is keeping them covered. A roof over their tops while parked at home and maybe even a RV cover to boot. That's my plan. (The previous owners kept it that way it's whole life and it looked great when we bought it). It's only going to get wet when I'm out on the road.
  2. Yes, heavy batteries, but when you see how and where I mount them, and I'll post it with pictures when I've got it completed, you might agree with my rationale. I used to buy from these guys. They are out of California. I got some good buys from them. http://www.partsonsale.com/ and at their site: Solar Kits for RV's.
  3. This "kind'a" works. You can add more to the formula with the "OR namebrand and/or years" etc. Copy and paste the below, into google search, adding whatever model to this you want, then search. Toyota Motor Home OR Dolphin OR Winnebago OR Itasca OR Odyssey OR Escaper OR Gulf Stream OR Huntsman OR Seabreeze OR Sunrader OR New Horizon OR Heritage -dosko site:craigslist.org link here for the above search: Toyota Motor Home the system needs to be refined and tweaked here and there...not really sure how to do it.
  4. I think the key is to be open to most of the coaches on the Toyota Chassis. I didn't care, one way or another, and found a really great Winnebago Warrior with everything I wanted, for $10k (our offer). Mileage was on the high borderline, 60k, but the engine, and the compartment, looked almost brand new. In fact, on a scale of 0 to 10, I'd give ours a 9.5. The key for me was, being patient. We live in the Pacific NW where a lot of 89' to 94's come up fairly frequently. Did you see this one? http://inlandempire....3354481544.html Here's a couple in Florida that look (potentially) good and are priced right. http://miami.craigsl...3318764337.html high mileage on this one... http://tampa.craigsl...3354857489.html
  5. Jeffrey

    dolphin

    Did you happen to take any more photos of this rig? I'd love to see how the roof rack is attached and it's overall design.
  6. Speaking of the Puget Sound; know any "Free" places to park our Toy Homes overnight, on, or close to the water?
  7. The question you might consider would be "How much juice do my present appliances consume"? I'm sure you've thought that out but many people who want to convert to an off the grid solar set up have not. If one is heating and cooking with wood and/or propane then there is a chance one can pull it off (with their present appliances). I've lived off the grid (10 year stretch one time, was the longest) and the key is "conservation" of energy. It's been my experience that when I'm off the grid, then back on the grid, my electric bill is much, much lower. I use only one appliance at a time, both on the grid and off, now, and, while off the grid, I'm religiously monitoring power consumption. I've also found that when I'm living off the grid I come to appreciate the sun, and wind, with an intimate reverence. Anyway, even if you supplement your on the grid system (as I do) with solar, eventually, it may pay for itself (The initial investment). And, of course, in case of an emergency, you'll have the means to progress rather than survive. I'll have my Toy Home "off the grid" once I find a couple of "accessories" needed to make the final transition. (7-50 watts of panels already mounted top side, Solar Boost 50 Charge Controller/1300 Watt Powerstar Inverter/4-Trojan 105 Batteries and cables already to go. Just a few minor things and I'll be set, I also have a two axle enclosed cargo trailer (my mobile power unit) with 9-185watt panels mounted top side, 20 some 105 trojan batteries, Outback MX-60 Charge Controller, Magnum Energy pure sine wave 4024 (4000 watt) Inverter I. Nice as back up. Have a new Bergey wind turbine that has yet to be hoisted. Maybe for the Toy Home? Probably too big.
  8. in addition, regarding Hot water heater issues here Furnace issues here scroll down at each site to see what might pertain to your possible situation.
  9. I suspect there's 3 main types for RV related theft. 1. A break in by a burglar, generally while one is using the RV on a trip, to remove personal possessions, i.e. wallets, purses, radios, tv, etc. Break a window and get in and get out in 5 minutes. 2. A break in or break up of rv parts taken from interior or exterior, possibly over a 30 minute or longer period (maybe less time, though). 3. Complete theft of RV like the one in the original post, for whatever reason, e.g. joy ride, strip parts, take home to use as second home on property, change title info and use it, etc. Personally, I'm now in the process of putting in a "kill/on-off" switch somewhere in the cab. In my last short trip, I had my two dogs inside whenever I had to leave my rv to get provisions. One is a Great Pyrenees and HE's 165 pounds. I left the window blinds open on the door side so his "head" could be seen.
  10. ...I would really be bummed out if this happened to me. Stolen - 91 Sea Breeze http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/rvs/3342740044.html Is this a problem with Toy Homes? Anyone else have a direct or indirect experience?
  11. What might be your recommendations for a complete cover which would include the cab? Is there one out there, that works? Anyone have one? Brand, model, Size? I'm in a '91 W. Warrior, full size. thanks
  12. Yes, my friends drove all the way down from Seattle and bought it today. Thanks for all your feedback. I've been working with them to get a Toy Home, since I have a '91 Warrior, for a few months. They got it for a little less than the asking price, but the overall condition was right up there at the top with low mileage, so they're excited, to say the least.
  13. I've got some friends interested in a 93' Toy Rockwood. I've never heard of this brand and was wondering if anyone has one or knows of them and what their experience/knowledge is with the overall quality of this coach. Any info pro or con would be great. Thanks
  14. I just returned yesterday from a seven day, 2800 mile trip; 6 days driving and one day resting. Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Utah, and Colorado. I purchased 175 gallons of gas for the entire trip. That's 16 miles per gallon. I drove on the average of 54 mph. Up to 61 going down some long mt. passes. Some long, relatively rolling/flat stretches I got 17 mpg. I've got a '91 Warrior with the V6. I seldom "punched it" unless I was holding up traffic at 40mph going up. I drive "very conservatively". I think I could get 18, maybe even squeak out 19 on flat stretches in Kansas or Nebraska with a stiff tail wind. I forgot to mention it was an "out and back" trip. pss I think I'm still recovering from my trip. "I drove on the average between 51 and 54 mph."
  15. Thanks waiter and Totem I checked the Home Battery and it showed a charge of 13.38, meaning that wasn't the problem. And I thought the battery was relatively new when I bought the unit. However, the connection cable to the Negative pole was slightly loose. Tightened it, went inside, turned on heat and voila, it works on DC. Again, thanks for your feedback.
  16. This probably should be obvious but for some reason I'm not "getting it" (may have to do with the fact I just returned tonight from a 2800 mile trek in my toyhome over the course of 7 days and my brain is in the fatigue zone). Anyhow, I purchased this '91 Warrior in the spring and tested the furnace while the rig was hooked up to AC. It worked fabulously at the time but it hasn't been hot out so there hasn't been a need to use it. However, on this trip I found myself in cooler night temps and tried to use it without hooking up to ext. AC. It's the Suburban model furnace and I understood it to be able to run off DC. Anyway, the fan came on but no heat. When I got home and hooked up to external AC tonight, it worked great. Can it be work off DC or is it only when I'm hooked up to external AC? I suspect there isn't enough power to run the furnace fan from my single "home" battery, so the answer probably is obvious and my taxed brain is on overload and unable to make any sense out of the obvious. Great trip though!
  17. How realistic is the price on this one? If they sell it for that, I'm listing mine, in pristine condition with 60K miles, for $20,000 (Hot Dang!). Theirs does appear to have added accessories; a CB and a roll of paper towels. LOL http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/rvs/3303096260.html
  18. Found this on Craigslist today. Always hate to see a crunched Toy Home, but some good parts seem to be available. Apparently they're parting it out. http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/rvd/3280708913.html
  19. "grizzly country" ... would that be like, Saint Louis or L.A.? There are many great hiding places in a Toy; cab and coach. When I'm driving I can reach up and slide my hand just under the mattress, where the removable section and the permanent section meet and have my HK Mark 23 ready and willing to fulfill any duties I request of it. When I'm sleeping, between the mattress and the front window area (cab bed) for night security; mattress is pulled back slightly in direction of the stern. Then I have a number of false floors/walls where a hand gun can be hidden when I leave the vehicle. I do also have two Great Pyrenees that look nasty but looks aren't everything. The Benelli super 90 (she) once got to sleep with the handgun (he) in the same place. Still working on a spot for the shotgun behind the passenger seat, although, the shotgun is a bit much for the Toy environment and so, almost always stays at home. If I was going across one of the borders, and I don't see that happening, but if I did, I'd pull up the toilet and try and place a well sealed HK USP .45 compact down there. I never do number 2 in the toilet and the tank would be empty, anyway. Take it out once across the border. May come a time, in the not so distant future, when I have to do that traveling from one state to another. False floor in rear bath cabinet works great for both handguns. Not sure what kind of hoops one has to go through crossing either border, i.e. how extensive their search is and what they are looking for...Guns? Drugs? Illegals? Precious Metals?
  20. The writer of this piece "was" (article written in 2002) traveling in a "21' MH". Good stuff on Inverters. Inverters by Phred http://www.phrannie.org/invert.html In addition... RV Solar Electric has been around for years. Great name brand products, reliable products, reasonably priced products (you get what you pay for). http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=20
  21. I'd like to comment on the first point regarding mpg. I've never driven the the 4 cyl. 22 so I can't make a comparison there. I do have the V6 in my '91 Warrior and I've put a few miles on it so I do have some experience and some figures. I get 15 to 20 mpg in my V6. The engine has been meticulously maintained and runs great, which helps dramatically in fuel efficiency. But most importantly, I don't drive aggressively, i.e. speed, rapid acceleration juxtaposed to constant braking. The reason is: "I'm simply not in a hurry when I drive my RV". I don't go over 55 mph while at the same time I make sure I don't hold up traffic behind me. I never "Punch it". Well, once in a great while I do (but it's rare), most importantly though, I make a "conscious" effort to be "present" with the gas pedal and the brake pedal by treating them both with a gentle touch. (Note: I had a very fast BMW motorcycle that could easily do 130 (I went 160 on it once) in a blink of an eye and that experience seemed to cure me of the insatiable need: "I had to go fast". On the other hand, maybe it's because I'm not quite as young as I used to be, and that "anxious" energy to be somewhere else quickly because I'm wasn't comfortable with where I was at at the time, was/is a sign that I'm getting "wiser" to the world around me, I don't know.) But I do know how to save gas. And to save it, one has to be willing to mellow out at the wheel; the positive numbers can rise quite dramatically. So a side from keeping the vehicle in tip top shape, and the method one drives in a variety of terrain ones RV is negotiating, it really comes down to "how much gas one wants to save,i.e. how far, or slow, is one willing to travel to extend that gallon of gas. In America we were raised and programmed to live half our lives on the road, in the designed urban sprawl, and cheap gas was instrumental in supporting that lifestyle. Now, with gas averaging over $4 a gallon nationwide, and with the potential to double in the next decade (or maybe next couple of years), I think our driving lifestyles are going to be changing as dramatically as the price of gas. Anyway, now I seem to have a better understanding of why there are so many different opinions/experiences on mpg the V6 gets, then again, maybe it's because I avoid the 10% ethanol, also. In addition, I have noticed there is the potential for a great deal of heat to be generated under the V6 hood when certain conditions align. The fact that the V6 engine design has an inherent flaw (reason for head gasket recall) in the narrow width between where water and oil flows in the head, is another reason why I drive "mellow".... Keep the Engine as Cool as possible...it will live longer. I'll jump off the soap box now.
  22. I'm in the process of adding a "solar system" to my Warrior. At this point I've mounted, on 2x6 frame, 7-50w panels (350 total). The frame is on hinges (on the driver side) and the panels are on hinges on the opposite side. That way the panels can tilt up from either side. However, the preferred side is tilting the panels (lighter that way) up towards the door side of the rig (entry door-south aspect). I've mounted panels (12-50 watt- 12volt system) on a '63 Airstream (I'll try and download a picture of that) and, two systems (12 volt 600 watts)/(24 volt 1620 watts) on a cargo trailer (which I will also try and download some pictures). I've just mounted the frame and the panels. Next I will attach cables from panels to combiner box (circuit breaker) followed by connecting combiner box to charge controller (Solar Boost 50) then to Inverter (Powerstar)/ 4 Batteries (Trojan 105's). Other than fewer panels and fewer batteries, this is the same system that I had on the Airstream. The cargo trailer is a 24 volt system with the 9 - 180 volt panels, an Outback combiner box, an Outback MX 60 Charge Controller, a very large battery bank (Trojan 105's) and the Inverter (Magnum 4024 pure sine wave). I wanted the 2x6 frame under the panels so as to give room to raise and lower, somewhat, the center vent. The weight of each panel is around 12 pounds (12 x 7 = 84 pounds) plus the weight of the 2x6's keep the total weight (combiner box, cables and hinges and various attachment screws/rivets not included) around 100 plus pounds. My RV manual says 100 pounds max up top. I tend to fudge knowing that a few extra pounds is generally okay. Anyway, as one can tell by the Airstream and Cargo trailers, I tend to push the limit and have been fortunate thus far. I tend to live my life on the edge (for the obvious advantages) so I'm will to take a chance, now and then. I have a few options for the next step. PV cables to a combiner box that will be situated inside the 2x6 frame. Then two cables from combiner box to Charge Controller. THis is the tricky one. Over the side, which means trying keep the lovely lines of the Warrior aesthetically pleasing by following (which direction?), or straight over the side directly towards where the batteries and charger "might" be installed, the locker under couch/behind driver, or actually under the couch, or down the fridge vent to batteries/charge controller/inverter under dinette seat. One way or another, I'll show how this progresses after each step is accomplished. I don't care for gas generators and having lived off the grid for many years, I prefer a "silent" energy source. Whereas most people calculate the size of their system based on their needs, my approach is to max out on panels and batteries so I have the option to add amenities along the way. I want to keep the fridge going 24/7 and not be on propane, necessarily. We don't like nuke your food boxes (microwave cooking) so that's not needed. Not sure on what it will take to keep the heater fan going at night, but that's where the propane will be used along with cooking. I do have a new Bergy XL.1 wind turbine ready to be mounted "somewhere", but that's a bit large for this RV. Maybe, someday, an "Air Breeze" turbine on a folding tower? Until I figure out how to upload photos, for those that might be interested, I hope that the pictures (RV/Cargo trailer/Airstream) can be seen here... http://www.flickr.com/photos/54175126@N06/7882673910/in/photostream/lightbox/
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