fred heath

YES..I'm slow,but can you sleep and pee in your car?

Randy, I live in Raleigh NC. If you need any tech advice let me know. Fred

GFCI's can go bad. Any outlets on the load side would be affected. They make a gfci tester and costs about $10.00 in the big chain stores. They have an easy read led diagnostic display that will also direct you to any hard wire issues such as open neutrals. One other problem I run into as an electrician is "back wired" receptacles. If your ac lines "push" into the back of the receptacle they can sometimes stop working. There is only a thin copper blade making contact with the supply wire. Both hot and neutral. If everything else checks out, replace the receptacles with new using the screws on the side. Good luck.

I own a 1978 Galavan. I completely gutted the inside and started from scratch. If your good with basic construction and take your time you should be fine. Save any old panels to use as a template for new. Your 20R engine is a workhorse. No computer and minimal smog equipment. New tires figure 1k. Budget 5-7K for improvements. If you have the time and place to work on it, I say take it. You can always part it out if you decide the projects too big. I guess I should have stated you should see if you can get it to run first. Then see if it moves. If not, it's probably best to pass.

back in nh. Sent u a pm with my cell #. Let me know if you got it.

If the area behind is metal or fiberglass I'd remove the rug. Sand and fill any holes, then paint with something like rustolium in a color that matches the surrounding area.

I guess the problem I have with "drafting" is your dependant on the driver in front. Your vision is limited to the back of the truck. If it suddenly stops at highway speed is your reaction time going to be quick enough? Personally, any benefit gained in fuel savings is offset by possible major damage to your toy not to mention you'd be at fault. I've never done it and never would.

Got to admit, it made me a little nervous. My speed was between 55-60 mph. Even climbing all the hills in VA and PA I still averaged 20.68 mpg.

Just completed a 861 mile road trip from Raleigh NC to Hampton NH. While on rt. 84 in PA had a large box truck riding on my butt. I was in the right hand lane and it had plenty of room to pass me. Figured out finally he was "drafting" me. Talk about the shoe being on the other foot.

I sent you a pm. Anything you need,let me know. Fred

Keep weight in mind. Allure is a very thin laminated floor. The upper end (Pergo?) is much heavier and thicker. Less floor weight gives you more cargo weight. In toys, every # counts.

I agree with Maineah. If they want to get in I would rather have them open the compartment than destroy a probably irreplaceable access door.

A pretty good indicator would be how much rubber you have left on the brake and clutch pedal pad. If really worn down you might want to go with the higher #.

How many members have "pet names" for their toys? And how did the get them? My 1978 Galavan I've named "Shaggy". This name is due to the fact the inside was completely covered in blue shag rug. It even came with an AM/FM 8 track in the dash. My friends and even the garage mechanics now use this name when talking about the mh. Any other great names out there?

14K since June 2012.

Je pense qu'ils peuvent etre Francais canadian

Hey Derek, The 70's mh had no Toyota assigned vin. Only the chassis I'd # which in my case started with RN 28. I became knowledgeable on this because I was concerned when I could find no vin label attached to the chassis. My bill of sale showed a vin (or min) but I had yet to find the mfg. label attached to the left inside door pillar. Fearful of buying a stolen mh I did a lot of DMV research in both states before putting out any cash. My number which contains both letters and numbers showed valid in both states. I was so concerned I actually had the seller do a separate bill of sale using the chassis ID number. I'm sure any owners of older non vin (federal) toys have a similar # that's used for registration. Bottom line is chassis ID is not really of much use.

JD. If you go back and read my post I mentioned both numbers. My toy also starts with chassis RN28 ID. I'm not sure about your home state but my state NH and the sellers state of ME did not recognize the chassis ID for registration. The mfg. Decal on the coach has a printed vin which both states recognize in their computers. To save 10 paragraphs of rebuttal by you. I'm using the term vin as it relates to identifying the mh. Maybe I should say the "MIN" (motorhome identity number). Maybe NY uses the chassis # I don't know.

Not sure in your case. Most mfg.s purchased the cab and chassis from Toyota. Toyota assigns a chassis I'd # to each truck. As soon as the mh body is attached, the mfg. Then assigns their own vin to the completed vehicle. I'm not sure about later years but my 1978 has both a vin and a chassis I'd. The vin is what you need to register your vehicle.

I have an 18 foot "Galavan" that I use as a daily driver. If your mh is small enough, you should be fine. My toy fits into a regular lined parking spot. That being said, you will have to tailor your driving habits to the toy. I always park away from other vehicles. (door mount mirrors can get bumped or damaged by people trying to squeeze in next to you.) Always pull through if possible to avoid backing issues. You will have to become familiar with backing up with only outside mirrors. Practice will help. Resign yourself to driving in the right hand lane. Toys are not known for their speed. As long as your cautious with your driving you should have no issues.

Yes I have the old axles. My toy weighs in at 4K. It was exempt from the recall. I did replace all bearings and seals. To date I've logged in over 12K miles. No problems with the axle. I did add 75/140 synthetic gear lube when the work was done. If I ever do change it in the future it will be from a GM 8 lug Dana. Same outside to outside width but can go to single wheels. Look at all the toll money I'll save.

My rear has split rims. The inner wheel bolts to the drum. The outer wheel bolts to the inside wheel.

Don't forget a piece of 5/4x4x24 beveled on one end. Saves a lot of time if your o/s duel goes flat and needs to be changed. Just drive the inside wheel onto the wood. Saves having to jack the whole rear end.

Cider vinegar is a great rust remover and it's eco friendly. Don't just use on cooking surfaces. Any rusty areas of your mh will clean up nicely. In pans, pour some in, let it sit for 10 minutes and rinse out.

I have the same year and motor. My original charger made a humming noise so I thought it was working. A quick voltage check showed it was not. Most of the new converters put out 13.8 volts which will keep your coach battery charged while on shore power. They also have a float circuit to prevent cooking the battery. Get the amp rating of your current charger and replace with the same. I found some good deals on Amazon. Good luck. Fred