Nam

Any relay that can handle 40A at 12V or more would be sufficient...make sure you have tight connections. When I got the first Warrior, the inside was corroded so I did not make any connection either. I took it apart, clearned it, and it worked like new again. The original isolator wasn't very good in my opinion

This is the exact Fridge I have on my Itasca. I only have one Costco RV battery in the coach and one Sunforce 2000W pure sine wave interver hook up. So far so good...it would drain the battery in one night though. However, I always carry the Honda 2000i generator, which I can run it anytime any where since it's pretty quiet. This fridge seems to have pretty strong compressor. Most places I go has power so it is not a problem so far. I also freeze large 2-little soda bottles the night before the trip to keep it cool when not running (basically use it as an ice box) I know nothing beats the propane fridge but it costs almost 5 times as this little one and I have to level the RV, plus I don't use it often enough to justify the cost of the new propane fridge. I also had this fridge laid around not getting used so I put it in anyway...not expecting too much but so far so good. The Sunforce inverter also powers my microwave so if I need to heat something up quickly...it does the job and it has wired and wireless remote control as well. (costs less than $200) I'll snap a pic. when I get around it later on and share with you.

I've never owned any 4Cyl. MH but I have 4cyl Toy trucks pre. '88 and most of them are noisy! Having owned two V6 MHs, I think the V6 ones are quieter, have somewhat modern drivetrans. I think the automatic tranny used on the V6 are pretty good (340E) they are quiet, shift smoothly (better than some modern Honda trannies). In terms of coach manufacturer, Sunrader and Winnebago are favorite as they seem to be tightly built despite smaller windows...JMHO

I like Linda s's assurance. I think my tank is original and it can hold 17 gals. I get a litlle nervous when the gauge shows empty and I could only filled 12.5gas. I may drain it eventually...but for now I feel better. Would it be a good idea to drain the tank after 26 years to get rid of whatever junk accumulated at the bottom of the tank?

It's among the "must to have" on these motor homes. Nice work thought. I wouldn't use PVC pipe instead, corrugated cable protectors seem to be more flexible and easy to route cables under the chasis

Very nice unit...you would have no problem selling at all. Consider posting on classified here too if you haven't done so. It's free and courtesy of Greg

Wow...impressive work so far. These Winnies are pretty well built and you will get years of enjoyment out of it. For $750 plus sweat...good deal for sure.

Not really, I just went into the bathroom, close the sliding door then I can access behind it to tight the bolt. The other bolt was a screw in type that went to the stud

I guess you can pull the injector electrical plug or make a switch so when idle, turn it on, on hwy speed, turn it off!!! the problem with leaving fuel unburn is it will damage the catalytic converter...anything at all, it will not pass smog regardless...so go figure!

I learned a great deal of Diesel engines out of jdemaris! thank you. Not too get off topic but I once thought of swaping a diesel engine to a 91 4x4 Toy pickup but scrapped the idea due to higher maintenance and lack of parts. I then not too long ago I bought a '98 GMC Diesel with 6.5L Detroit Diesel in it to replace my '94 F150 4.9L I6 for my construction side of the company used for towing HD equipments and trailers. The owner of the GM truck just spent $8K at the dealer replacing the pump and the auto tranny (I saw receipts). The truck had $175K miles and it was a 4x4, ran great, with lots of power, and cool AC! Stroke a deal for $1.5K (needed 2 batteries!). My guys were smiling big time with the additional power and comfort. In just a few weeks, the GM got stolent, after recovery, the injection pump, the transmission, transfer case, and 4 wheels were taken out of it. Insurance total lost it...BTW, the diesel GM truck got 8 MPG. Well the settlement $ was enought for me to get a gas '05 F250 V8 (5.4L) crew cab 2WD (no need for 4WD) I didn't really feel much difference on power though on trips around town only when towing over the hills. Maintenance and gas bills are lower (13-15MPG). No more diesel for me...at least for a long while...maybe hybrid truck (like Sierra?) or downsizing to old Toyota truck/Tacoma for service calls and light hauling....

Very nice setup! great job well done

Dodge seems to have more realibility concern and lower MPG, these where the Toy home wins. But the Dodge has more power and it can tow where Toyota lacks. Comes down to what your particular needs are. Nam

As far as I know, if the engine came from a newer model year, CARB will issue the sticker provided that it was done correctly. But what's the point of getting a Chevota? Not gas mileage, service is going to be a headache and so is reliability. Just like everyone said, towing isn't an option with Toy homes, I wouldn't plan on it unless it's a light motorcyle. V6 is what you'll need. I've seen V6 in around the $5k range with the 340E tranny. 4-cyl will also get you there...at about the same time actually. Advange of the 4-Cyld is parts and aftermarket parts are more abundant than the V6s. The shorties V6 seems to have little less weight and handles a little better IMO Only full floating axel (6 bolts) would be acceptable

The tank on my 1990 Itasca measured to be 32" long. I don't have any reason to believe the tank was replaced. I still hope it can hold 17gals. I measured the other 1990 Winnebago Warrior and the two tanks are identical

Hi John, I saw you posted two types of sealants? I am familiar with the Dicor but what about the other? Any difference?

Wow, that's a great idea. I have been thinking of a replacement for the aging roof top AC unit that I removed. Knowing you, you may have a good write up for it. let's me search and see if i can find it. Couple of questions: 1. I am assuming that the AC unit is a regular window AC unit used for stationary house...not RV special? 2. Venting for this AC unit is done thru the Fridge vent so you do not need to open the wall? 3. What unit would you recommend. At 5000BTU, my EU2000i honda should be able to handle it Thanks,

I will try to share what I've done to the Toy home so hope someone could benefit from these...here it goes. Mounting a TV/DVD combo. In this project, I used the 24" Toshiba tb24v4260u with buit-in DVD player. This particular model being chosen for it's light weight (11.7lbs) LED backlight with 1080P resolution and 2HDMI inputs along with VGA. Thinking this would work if I ever need to use it as a monitor. Sound is decent since it's quite thick (due to DVD player) so the speakers are a little bigger compared to other thinner TVs. $174 was what I paid. It has vesa 100mmx100mm mounting holes As shown on the pics, I mounted right above the fridge compament along the wall. I used Video Secure ML12B CB5 $14 from Amazon. This wall mount is full articulated with 4 adjustment points so I can angle the TV in whatever direction I wanted. A bit over kill but I didn't know what to expect. Mounting the wall mount is relatively easy. The top scew has solid wall so I used the included wood screw and bolt it right in. I had to use nut/bolt/washer for the bottom one due to the wall being hollow (behind the bathroom sliding door) I purposely mounted the TV a little lower so most of its weight rests on the top of the Fridge's cabinet, not on the wall. Seems to be secured even while the motorhome is running. This TV has provided hrs. of enjoyment for us while we are out. The Itasca has the roof top attenna built in already. Power consumtion is very minimal. About 20Watts with DVD player. My 100W inverter works just fine.

Linda, I will get under the coach and measure the tank. I don't think the tank was changed out. Knowing for sure that I have 17.2Gal tank helps between fill ups. Right now my "comfortable" range is only about 160miles. It would be nice to get close to 200 miles between fill up. Thanks,

I think my 1990 Itasca may have 14.5G tank as well. I've never filled more than 12.6G when the gauge shows almsot empty (pic. attached)

I belived my '90 Itasca is pretty well tuned, the dealer just did a Head Gasket with most new parts at the head...but I constantly get 13MPG going about 60MPH...a little low in my opinion but I don't think there is much I can do to improve that. Any idea? 10.5MPG is quite low...but depending on how fast you drive

What I would really need is an arm rest. I think the seat on my 1990 Itasca is okay for now. The Sienna's seats have foldable arm rests. I still haven't checked and see if it's going to fit. I double it but it's worth checking. Powered and heated seats are nice upgrade from stocked one.

$40 is pretty good price for Pro. installation. It took me almost 2 hrs. to fabricate the brackets, connect wires, and another 5 hours running power, RCA, wires to the back. I also had to splice the reverse lights to get signal for the head unit to automatically turn on when I shift to reverse. It was a pain

I don't know about others but the way the seats were made on my Itasca keep on sliding down when sitting on it. I found some aluminum angles, cut to length, file sharp corners, some screws...done...no more seat sliding. BTW, from the pictures, you may notice I put two horizontal pieces of wood to support the table when making into a bed. Most Toyota motor homes already had this feature but for some reasons, this feature was never made on the Itasca. Simple solution will provide a comfortable 5'-9" bed for one person

Rigger camper, what head unit is that? It does have tilt screen? great for mounting lower. I got something similiar to it but it did not fit the '90 Itasca so I ended with the Pioneer instead