shibs

Don et Corbin, thanks, I will fill the hole with the epoxy putty and then apply a layer of gel coat on top, not worried about color matching right now, just perverse and prevent further damage.

I thought about camping while working out of state but my work took to me the most unsafe parts of our nation. Even considered buying a 30 some boat and park it at marina while I worked in Baltimore :-). I think I will get claustrophobic spending so much time in a confined space.

You are correct, I recall they did this few years back, the same filter, wow, scary. Honda manual still says filter every other oil change, I will take an M1 with me next time I head to the dealer. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3097085 I have a lot of idle time on my Honda Fit, sometimes 30 hours in a week. oil is cheap, I dump it around 5k miles and put in fresh oil. the car has 50k miles,

Don, go with Bosch or Toyo, I have a bosch on my Honda fit now, very well made filter. I would go with the bosch. I change my filter on my Hondas every other oil change with synthetic oil. if you have farm/fleet stores nearby, they sell wix for cheaper, you can also find Donaldson. I bought my M1 by cases for my dmax and Hondas, I think they came to $7 per filter.

yuck, can you back flush the system?

many engines have gone 100k miles with fram, scary but true. if you are picky about filters, buy oem toyo filter, I bought a case many moons back and still using them. or get Mobil 1 oil fiters from your local Mobil dealer, much cheaper if you buy em by the box.(12 I think) on the topic of oil pressure, I am yet to see an oil pressure sensor behave correct or send the correct pressure. on my mazdas, very flaky on my duramax, the pressure drops to 30 psi or 20 psi with synthetic oil and factory filter, but I get 80 psi with dino in winter. from what I have read, the experts commented that as long as you see SOME oil pressure you are good. also, high pressure might trigger the oil bypass in your oil filter,

In the winni brochure they have an auto air option. Look at the 2nd pic, you are correct, looks like a bump stop there. well looks like I buy fine air bag that JDFrost has for sale.

Last I drove it was from 1 storage spot to another. don't recall the "Feel" sorry

Very true, that is one of the major weakness of a non-framed RV,

here is another pic,

Ladies and Gentlemen, I have no nipples cuz looks like I don't any air bags. What the Air? I mean, how can that be? Here is a pic of the axle and the rear wheel

Moisture intrusion to the sub floor is always a possibility. With that in mind a breathable flooring covering the sub floor might a better idea as it will allow the sub floor to dry out and prevent mold formation.

Dan, Good Pics (thanks!) The pic shows the framing that Jodi (Jdfrost) noted above. Yeah, what the heck hit this toyo? I don't think the drive made it. Look at the space behind the driver, that is where my kids would have sitting. Another reason, I am not a fan of sandwich walled campers for safety from side impact. I see one rectangular beam on the roof too, just in front of the a/c

I walked around the sunrader and found that previous owner removed the ladder (why???) the rivets where flush cut, some of the holes are still open. I also found some stress cracks around the bottom edge on the rear. In the front, gel coat was missing above the pass side door. Q: how do I repair the fiberglass issues? do I apply gel coat epoxy on top of the crack in the pic below and seal it for now from outside?

Don, Looks great, are you also replacing the gasket behind the light plastic frame? good idea on adding an o-ring around the edge, who makes o-ring type material that long?

that like 8 hrs of labor? holy canoli!

Lol, if I don't get to use it then I just might have to.

I did not go camping even though I have a new sunrader, too many honey do list items to complete this weekend. 1. If it sat for that long, the oil is probably sludged up a little. change oil and check and change again soon few time if black floaters are present in oil 2. Change all fluids and gear oils 3. inspect all rubber hoses 4. empty gas tank and put in fresh gas with injector cleaner/sea foam and run the heck out of the engine. Change fuel filter after a few tanks. 5. check air intake and other spots for rats/mice nest 6. exhaust is probably corroded from standing moisture, check for exhaust leaks. in all, your fuel system is the biggest worry, I would not worry about the timing belt, the 3vzfe is a NON-Interference engine breaking the belt will not harm the engine.

in my 90 the oem cooler is around 4inchx4inch in size. I had a 2002 Honda accord, it was extra cold one morning in Jan of 2003, around -18F and the tranny would not shift out of 1st year. So, using dex VI is better being syn atf, it will flow better in cold temps? JDE, did ya install a tranny temp sensor? The radiator tubes is a "New" feature? did we have it in our 85s or in 90s? I know I have it in my Honda Truck, I just replaced one due to corrosion of the tranny line washer to the radiator.

worked out a deal with a buddy 1985 with 90k miles pros: new tires, bath fan, tranny rebuilt with bigger cooler cons: pass side door mirror frame damage, hvac vent controls don't work, ladder missing, porch light broken, couple of small fiberglass damage. anyone seen this rader before??

pics or it did not happen, lol, Rialtas are pretty popular in Socal. so how fast did ya go on the hwy?

Did ya use em on the rear wheels?

I like the bottle jack idea to lift it and put the lynx underneath.

how high is each block? I like that but I am thinking a little bit longer top surface to add stops for the tires.

no foolies here, 1 ton axle. not sure if want my chunky derriere under the toyo on my Rhinos on the back ;-). The ground at the storage space is not concrete but loose recycled asphalt, so something wide and stable. I took a peek and I can't reach the diffy due to the rear tire frame and the storage tanks. So I have to raise it min 6 inches.