Derek up North

4.30:1 is only about 5% difference. I doubt you'd notice a difference. I didn't when driving 2 MH with each, back to back. Instead of turning 3000rpm, you're turning 3150! Not worth the effort. IMHO. If you want to read more from the same poster on the Yahoo Group, do and 'Advanced Search'. Author:- fsprandy. Search for:- 4.56

A post from the Yahoo Group:- I run 4.56 gears with my 22re automatic. In overdrive it purrs along quite nicely at highway speeds. I don't notice any more engine noise than I did with the 4.1 gearing. The 4.56 feels right - like it should have been geared all along. When you do need to be in drive at highway speeds you'll notice a big difference as it is wound up even more in drive than it used to be! I now find it unacceptable to go over 55 in drive. As far as cost, complexity, durability, and availability the 4 pinion 4.56's were used in the v6 automatic 4runners with 31" tires. These were very popular, had fragile engines, and so the 4.56 third members are easy to come by. Even better many of the third members got replaced to accommodate over-sized tires and to try and make up for the too-tall overdrive and underpowered engines in the 4runners. If you want one let me know and I'll keep an eye open. The swap is super easy - I think I posted the process on here once. It takes less than an hour from start to finish, requires no special tools, and can be done by an average shade tree mechanic. There is no difference other than gearing between the third member that came on the 1-ton axles and the 4 pinion third members that came on the v6 4x4's. Unfortunately, the Tacoma and other next generation third members are not interchangeable with our style. I wouldn't go to a 4.88 as I think it would be too low. I do have a nice 4.88 third member but have not installed it for that reason. As far as cost I traded my 4.1 for a 4.56 and so it didn't cost me anything. If buying one outright it shouldn't cost more than $125 or so which is what the exporters pay for them.

Several have switched to 4.56:1 (~11%) and report improved driveability without hurting economy. A few have gone to 4.88 (~19%).

An '85 C&C would have left the factory with a 5-lug axle, so it's been changed to a 1-Ton. So the axle code on the truck will mean nothing. Most 'homes seem to have been 4.10:1, though some V6s were 4.30:1.

If you're talking about the final drive ratio in the axle, it's probably 4.10:1 (the most common).

Why not? We've already got pneumatics! And 20s on a 4x4?

Don't forget to ask them if they have plans for 16". Maybe a set of 20s?

We've unfortunately got pathetic laws here governing puppy mills and pounds. Sooo many to save. I take them in, get them house trained (my poor floors & carpets) and socialized and off they go, usually never to be heard from again (sob). Here's a picture of Chase the last time I saw him and another with his 'brother'. He ended up going to Vermont.

It sounds like you have a Dolphin 500. You might have to cut access holes inside your wardrobe.

Thanks for letting us know before we sent the dogs out looking for you.

If it's factory, you'll want this:- http://personal.utul.../10cruiseco.pdf If it's Aftermarket, good luck with Google finding instructions!

The 1988 Dolphin brochure lists a tank capacity of 17.2 Gallons. I'm certain the the Seabreeze is the same. The standard 17.2 gallon tank is 37" long. How have you determined that yours is only 13 gallons?

1988 Escaper - 40lb tank

Also with an MG (they're all old!) the flex hose collapsed internally. There was enough pressure to force fluid to the caliper, but then the fluid was trapped there. By turning the steering wheel to full lock, I could reach in with a spanner (wrench) to crack the bleeder and release the pressure without going underneath. It was just 1 wheel locking.

"... still locks up after a few miles and using the brake lightly." I guess you could read it that way too. Could go either way. Hopefully we'll get some more details.

Might as well post this to keep everything together:- "How To Keep Your Toyota Pickup Alive" step-by-step procedures for the complete idiot for 1975-1987/2 & 4WD by Larry Owens http://www.hiluxsurf...ead.php?t=68806 A shame it was never (that I know of) updated to cover the V6 and 1-Ton DRW chassis. I've yet to come across a FSM covering older (pre-'85) Toyotas. Closest I've found is the '78 'Maintenance Procedures':- http://f1.grp.yahoof...78toyotafsm.pdf

Concerning the interlock between the brake pedal and transmission shifter: is it a purely mechanical thing or is the 12v involved? I don't seem to remember ever being unable to shift an automatic vehicle into neutral to push it around with the battery removed. Not specifically a Toyota. Seems it's always simply been a case of turning the key to the run position to unlock the steering, push the brake pedal and move the shifter to 'neutral'.

And an on-line version of the '93 FSM (nice for people on dial-up!):- http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Good on you for taking one from a rescue. I've fostered a few GSDs in the last 3 years (Lulu, Baby, Zach, Ginger, Chase, Miko, Bella & Mojo) as well as about 20 others. Never had a problem with any of the, unless you count Helios who ate seatbelts, headliner, door panels, arm rests, sunvisors, heated rear window wiring, etc. But we found him a home, eventually!

I think they're heading for Salem, Oregon. No idea of the current location.

Oops. Just noticed in the 'Subject' that it's the front brakes. If it's both front brakes at the same time it would seem to indicate a master cylinder problem.

Where is it that you're stranded and where are you trying to get to? Maybe someone can point you to a repair facility. When the brakes lock up, how do you get them unlocked? Does sitting for a while unlock them? You mentioned lots of parts being changed. No mention of the flexible brake hoses. Do you know which brake is locking? Front? Rear? Left? Right? There will be a difference in the temperature of the wheel on the corner that's locking.

A couple of other downsides to the tandem/tag axle: - 2 more tires to buy (8 + spare(s)) - higher tolls. They can't have been a great design since few were made and production was dropped by everyone by 1981.

Hardest part of doing the conversion in Canada? You aren't going to find any donors in the junkyard! As far as I can tell, Toyota never imported the 1-Ton into Canada. U-Haul (as far as I can tell) never offered the box truck, etc, etc. The couple of Canadian built MH I've seen have been built on the 1/2 Ton truck.

I don't think you need to search for 'high temperature' paint. Most auto parts stores will stock 'wheel paint'. Some like the hammered paint, which will better hide rust 'scars'. I prefer 'normal' paint and avoid 'silver' in favor of 'grey'. Like any paint job, preparation is 90% of the job for good results.