Derek up North

We should be so lucky to have so much structure in ours. Those Jaycos actually have studs at regular intervals! And roof trusses!

Those are pads. He's looking for rotors.

'Waxoyl' is a product favoured by the vintage car crowd. It has spread beyond MG & Triumph owners. If you're on a lower budget, there are DIY recipes. https://www.google.ca/search?q=diy+waxoyl+recipe&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=rTZtV7GCPMzFmwHk3rCgAw Wax and oil. That's it.

No need to get snarky. And the location makes a difference?

You didn't mention roof air in your 'rules'.

I've never owned any Honda products and it's never hot enough to need A/C here.

Another product (similar) you might come across is ' Red Max Pro 3'. I'm not sure how easy it is to find. http://www.lowes.com/pd/Red-Max-1-Gallon-Low-Maintenance-Floor-Finish/3024836 https://www.amazon.com/Red-Max-Pro-Floor-Polish/dp/B0050DXNTW?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

The ZEP product is a commercial floor finish like you used to see on the floors at school that the janitor would occasionally 'freshen up' with a new coat and polish to a high shine. Your surface has to be really clean before applying because any marks on it will be sealed under the high-built polymer. The stuff I bough from another manufacturer had 3 products in their 'system'. A 'Stripper', a 'Sealer' and a 'Polish'. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.zep-wet-look-floor-finish-378l.1000164304.htm

So you're willing to sit through 8 hour videos of an A/C and generator running? Split screen? To pass the time, you can watch this exciting movie.

The most common ingredient of the 'rust killers' (including Ospho) is phosphoric acid. https://www.google.ca/search?q=rust+killer+phosphoric+acid&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=0RZsV8XYIcfY-gH7hY2IAQ

I've even known senior dogs who go back and 'lick the bowl' 16 days after it's empty and the rest of the pack has moved on.

Or it might go up in price since it's now 'running'!

They both 'popped'? That would be a surprising coincidence. Or did one/both of the fill hoses break/leak? If so, a cheap and easy fix. Replacements? Individual air springs are available. First you'll need to identify what you currently have installed. Airlift? Firestone? 3-T? toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/5201-air-springs-firestone-air-lift

Though it sounds kind of weird, on the Winnebago, the graphics seem 'different'. The mauve is (I think) paint, the other colours vinyl. Don't know what one of those 'eraser wheels' would do with paint, if that's what it is.

http://www.caranddriver.com/news/toyota-tacoma-x-runner-auto-shows

You might anticipate the brake linings being contaminated with oil too. So while you're at it you might as well inspect (and replace) both sides and do the rear wheel bearing inspect and repack at the same time unless you have evidence that they've been done recently.

I've never had a gas gauge in any vehicle that I'd describe as anywhere near accurate or linear.

You put all 4 on the rear tires and just watch the front ones just like normal. Or spend the extra bucks and buy a 6 sensor kit.

Thank God they invented these! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-Power-Wireless-TPMS-Tire-Pressure-With-LCD-Monitoring-System-4-Sensors-/201462339646

Yes, that certainly looks close enough. https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-20495-Door-Latch/dp/B002UC2UJA?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

90lb total maybe, but only ~25lb difference. But I know it all adds up!

https://www.google.ca/search?q="chalk+test"&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=1MtmV6TbDeWCjwT8mJaYCA

IF the 1988 recommendations (29psi) was 'in great error', then I guess the 1990 recommendation should (reasonably) be considered the 'correction' you're looking for. The bottom line is that you/we are all free to run whatever pressure we choose and that as long as you're somewhere between the minimum (per the L/I tables) and the maximum (50 or 65 psi) you should be 'good', whatever logic you choose to apply.

A Load/Inflation Table is NOT a recommendation of what pressure you should run. It is a standard that tire manufactures agree to meet (or exceed). For example, the 1080lb/26psi numbers ONLY mean that the tire can carry the load of 1080lb with a pressure of 26psi. Not the same thing as the pressure for best ride, handling, fuel economy, etc. " I always based rear pressure on having 3 tires." I wouldn't. I'd base it on having 2 tires on 1 end of the axle and 1 tire on the other end. So if you've got a typical 4000lb rear axle weight, you've got (roughly) 2000/side i.e. 2000lb on 1 tire and not 1/3 of 4000lb/tire. Just a little note that the list posted above has a typo in it @ the 51psi point. I'm not sure who typed it up (maybe me!) but 'my' version obtained from Yokohama and Hankook is as follows:- Load Inflation Table - 185R14 - Load Range C & D Inflation (Psi).... 26 ... 29 ... 32 .. 35 .. 38 ... 41 ... 44 .. 47 ... 51 .. 54 .. 58 ... 62 .. 65 Singe (Lb)........... 1080 1147 1213 1279 1345 1400 1466 1532 1599 1665 1731 1786 1874 Dual (Lb)............. 1036 1102 1158 1223 1279 1334 1389 1455 1521 1588 1643 1709 1764

U-Haul will have to get the law changed in Maine if the plan to offer the new service.